140 Motor Progress

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bbodie52
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by bbodie52 » Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:18 am

66corsaguy wrote:Sun Jun 18, 2017 8:15 pm

Why the little tubes sticking out of carb gas hole thingys?
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:link: http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 144,718154
...Bob Helt's carb book has a complete list of all possible street and racing mods, an the people who can do the mods for you.

Extended vents, bored accelerator pump holes, lowering float levels, etc...

...Vent tube extensions fix the problem of fuel sloshing out and flooding the engine during cornering, causing sputtering/power loss...
Rochester HV Vent Tubes.jpg
Rochester HV Vent Tubes (2).jpg
:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=251
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Part number C3939: BOOK-CARBS BY BOB HELT

Weight: 1 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 251
Price: $ 26.85
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
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GasDaddy140
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Re: Got it Really Going-on Now!

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Fri Jun 23, 2017 6:28 pm

In my busy world I'm making substantial Corvair rebuild progress. I want my "tag" to be meaningful and I get mean about that. The gas stuff is still readily available.
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Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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GasDaddy140
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Re: Weird but solid part-140 Motor Progress

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Mon Jun 26, 2017 9:40 pm

After digging up and refreshing most of the parts for this clutch cable actuator, I grew fond of its weirdness, but robust design. After I pump a load of grease inside it, I bet it'll be good as new.
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Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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GasDaddy140
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Running with Flashing Taillights.

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Wed Jul 05, 2017 8:41 pm

Hi,

I've discovered that I have some wiring issues. One of which being no dashboard ground. I have no headlights. Some dash lights. Two tail lights! That flash! If your turning right. Ignition works fine, alt and fan light goes out with engine run. I'm researching this site again for grounding tips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7VW1up ... e=youtu.be
Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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bbodie52
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by bbodie52 » Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:04 am

...I've discovered that I have some wiring issues. One of which being no dashboard ground. I have no headlights. Some dash lights. Two tail lights! That flash! If your turning right...
Your problem with the two rear taillights flashing (with the right turn signal switch actuated) is almost certainly a short or damaged electrical connection within the turn signal switch in the steering column. If you click on the schematic wiring diagram below (twice), the diagram will be enlarged so that you can zoom in on the turn signal wiring. The turn signal flasher in the diagram is located near the top center, to the left of the cigarette lighter. The flasher is the only source of ON/OFF flashing voltage (via the 18 PPL wire) that is connected to the turn signal switch multi connector on the steering column. The brighter filaments in the 1157 bulbs in the rear of the car serve as both the brake lights and as the turn signal lights. These are filaments are normally wired to the stop lamp switch at the brake pedal (connected via the 20 B/W wire to the turn signal switch). When he stepped on the brake pedal, power passes through the turn signal switch to both rear taillights. Actuating the right or left turn signal temporarily disconnects the 1157 filament on the selected side from the brake light switch power source, and connected to an alternate power source (the turn signal flasher). This allows flashing power to be directed to the selected side only, while the other brake light remains connected to the brake light switch. This permits the two rear lights to both functions simultaneously — one with the continuous brake light and the other with a flashing turn signal. The fact that both of your rear lights are flashing at the same time (without an emergency flasher in the circuit) would only be possible if an internal short is occurring within the turn signal switch that is allowing flasher voltage to be applied simultaneously to both rear lights.

You did not say whether or not the two front signals function properly when the right or left turn signal is actuated. You also did not say whether or not the left turn signal functions as expected, or if the two brake lights function normally with the turn signal switch in the OFF position. Knowing whether or not the other brake light and turn signal light functions are behaving normally or have been disrupted in some way might help to indicate what is going on inside the turn signal switch. Unplugging the multi connector on the steering column and using an ohm meter to check for continuity between the various wire connections, while comparing the wiring in the schematic to determine the color codes that should have continuity with the turn signal switch in the LEFT, RIGHT, and OFF positions might help you to confirm how the incorrect switching is occurring. But ultimately I suspect you will have to pull the steering wheel and remove the turn signal switch to examine it to see if it can be repaired or if it must be replaced.

LEFT-CLICK EACH IMAGE TO ENLARGE FOR BETTER VIEWING
1965-1969 Corvair Interior Compartment Wiring Diagram (2).jpg
1965-1969 Corvair Interior Compartment Wiring Diagram
LM Corvair Turn Signal Switch Guts.jpg
LM Corvair Turn Signal Switch Guts
In looking at the contacts inside the turn signal switch, LR and RR are normally shorted together and in constant contact with B+. B+ only has voltage applied when the brake pedal is being depressed. Moving the switch to activate the right turn signal would normally deflect the metal contact away from B+ and bring it into contact temporarily with the other metal strip that is looped to TS+. The other metal strip is simultaneously pushed over into contact with the RF terminal, so that both the right front and right rear terminals come into contact with the continuous switching voltage available at TS+. This leaves both right turn signals flashing continuously until the switch position has been canceled. The left rear lamp would remain in contact with B+ and would be illuminated whenever the brake pedal is depressed.

In order for both of the bright filaments and 1157 bulbs in the rear to be powered by the flasher simultaneously, they would have to be electrical short somewhere within the switch or possibly in the wiring harness that allows the constant flashing voltage that is applied when the right turn signal is actuated to be carried over to the other 1157 bulb. This electrical short could possibly be somewhere else in the wiring harness or in one of the multi connectors. Such a short would not normally be noticed when the two bulbs are in the brake mode, since both lights are normally illuminated simultaneously when the brake pedal is depressed. However, if the short was in the wiring harness and still existed when the left turn signal was activated, you would think that both bulbs would flash in unison again when the flasher voltage was applied from the other side. If that is not the case, you will have to determine why the two are shorted together only when the right turn signal is activated, but not when the left turn signal is activated. Since the only physical movement takes place within the turn signal switch, the source of the electrical short may also be physically within the turn signal switch.

The headlights (high beam, low beam or both) are often disrupted by a loose connection or faulty switch on the floor of the car. This switch allows foot control of both high beams and low beams. Using a multimeter, you can check at the electrical connector to see if voltage is being applied to the floor switch when the main light switch is turned ON. If voltage is present with the switch ON on at the 14 B/LBL wire at the dimmer switch, and if the electrical connector is in good condition and firmly connected, but nothing is coming out to either of the wires connected to the high beam or low beam circuits, the dimmer switch is probably faulty. If no voltage is found coming from the main light switch, the switch itself may be faulty. A little troubleshooting with a multimeter should help you to identify the source of your problem with the headlights. Both switches can be found on page 84B of the Clark's Corvair Parts online catalog.

:link: http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=84B
1965-1969 Corvair Trunk Schematic Diagram.jpg
1965-1969 Corvair Trunk Schematic Diagram
The instrument panel ground connections for the Corsa and Monza instrument panels are shown in the illustrations below. Both instrument panels are made of plastic and use a series of metal strips that are daisychained together to tie to a single ground point that is attached by one screw to the dashboard metal frame. A loose or corroded screw can create a faulty ground that can affect the operation of many of the lights and instruments throughout the instrument panel. You should check the physical connection of this ground screw and repair it as needed.
1965-66 Corvair Instrument Panel Detail (Corsa).jpg
1965-66 Corvair Instrument Panel Detail (Corsa)
1965-69 Corvair Instrument Panel Detail (Monza).jpg
1965-69 Corvair Instrument Panel Detail (Monza)
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
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GasDaddy140
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Mon Jul 10, 2017 12:37 pm

BBodies52-
I got the short in the directional repaired, and made two ground wires for the dashboard. Along with a new dimmer I can say most lights lit! Not sure about the dome light because I didn't check it yet.

Rebuilt rear wheel hub assemblies started going on along with new brakes this past weekend! The little ignition key starts the car! Another Corvair has dodged the wrecking yard, I think :tu:
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IMG_3880.jpg
Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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GasDaddy140
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Air Filters and Engine Crankcase Breaths

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Fri Jul 21, 2017 8:09 am

So, this is what I ended up with regarding the breather and air-filter changes Corvairs.
Rafee Corvair air-filters as they are simple, sturdy, and make an unobstructed engine bay. The somewhat distant breather keeps oil from sucking into the cooling fan. Dang! As Rafee may say.
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IMG_3916.jpg
Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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66corsaguy
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:23 am

GasDaddy140 wrote:So, this is what I ended up with regarding the breather and air-filter changes Corvairs.
Rafee Corvair air-filters as they are simple, sturdy, and make an unobstructed engine bay. The somewhat distant breather keeps oil from sucking into the cooling fan. Dang! As Rafee may say.
What is the dip stick behind the newly located breather tube


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GasDaddy140
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by GasDaddy140 » Thu Jul 27, 2017 1:48 pm

That's my diff dip stick. Pretty cool.
Alan Duquette
Rohnert Park, CA
"When in doubt...Hit the gas!" A.J. Foyt.

1965 Corvair Corsa (field find) I will build my ship that comes in.
1971 Dodge Sportsman "shorty" 318 van
2015 Nissan Juke S

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66corsaguy
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:14 pm

GasDaddy140 wrote:Hi Corvairs and their Care Takers,

Mufflers! $29.00/ each from Summit Racing. Exact 1.7/8" ID inlets that fit Clark's 140 U-Pipes exceptionally. 1.7/8" down spouts. My criteria is that they will be mounted above the oil pan. They even have welded on threaded brackets for some kind of hanger you imagine! You may also notice that I have a distributor, 7mm wires, condensers, points, and other metal stuff...and drinking water. Soon..I'm going to try and light it off! :tu:
Have you started it up? I want new mufflers and not sure how loud they are.


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66corsaguy
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by 66corsaguy » Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:17 pm

GasDaddy140 wrote:That's my diff dip stick. Pretty cool.
I just read about that! I just got under my 66 to check oil levels. Much easier in your car !


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Gregory_Miller
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by Gregory_Miller » Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:14 am

A 66 differential has the boss where a dipstick would go and it can be done. I have a 66 trans/diff in my 65 and the PO not only added the dip stick, he added drain plugs to the bottom of both the trans and diff. Nice. The opening in the body where the dip stick enters the engine bay on a 66 would probably be the biggest challenge.

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davemotohead
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by davemotohead » Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:13 pm

Do yourself and your engine a favor and get rid of the crank case vent in the engine compartment and hook up a properly working PCV system, moving it over from your original location does nothing and it will still suck every bit of crank case gasses into the cooling fan and into your heater, also where is the rubber hose from the carb balance tube going? to the air cleaner? if so that is completely wrong. on the original system that goes to a metered orifice that replaces the one way PCV valve on the EM cars, a metered orifice has a very small hole and does what it is named for, it meters (Limits) the amount of air that the balance tube can suck in, if you have that going to the air cleaner you just made a giant vacuum leak, Hook the system up properly.
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bbodie52
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sat Jul 29, 2017 8:11 am

:goodpost: :clap:

Here are some pictures of custom air cleaners with the PCV system properly reconnected...

Image

Custom PCV Connections.jpg

Image


Image

It is not really necessary to connect the air cleaner hose to BOTH air cleaners. Connecting to the custom air cleaner on one side is enough (as illustrated in the last image below, showing an Early configuration (1963) and FC vehicles using a PCV valve and the air cleaner connection on the right side factory air cleaner only).
PCV System Layout (1964-1969) Sedan-Coupe-Convertible.jpg
PCV Tube Connections.jpg
PCV System Layout (1963-1965).jpg
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by davemotohead » Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:03 am

My Versions are Much cleaner than any of those Brad, and the last pic with the rubber fuel lines! UGH a fire bomb waiting to explode! How do you change the belt on that set up?

I like using the 140 upper PCV tube as the metered orifice is close to the bend and when cut off easy to T it off and the air cleaner hoses point in the right direction, also at the bottom is the before engine pics of before I fixed these cars with stinky heaters, Not only does it make the inside of your car stink but venting to the atmosphere creates no Vacuum in the crank case, its much better for the engine to have negative crank case pressure. The one car had valve cover vents sitting in the engine compartment! and look at these dangerous floppy rubber fuel lines, I custom bent steel lines and replaced them!
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Chris Burbank monza 094.jpg
Chris Burbank monza 096.jpg
corvair stuff 196.jpg
corvair stuff 196.jpg (118.21 KiB) Viewed 156 times
19894755_1599679193400301_6094846713963110986_n.jpg
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bbodie52
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Re: 140 Motor Progress

Unread post by bbodie52 » Sat Jul 29, 2017 1:05 pm

Image

:whoa: I made this mistake with the fuel line routing when I was working on this car back in 1982 — getting it ready for a cross-country run from Ventura County in Southern California to Lake Tahoe and then on to New Jersey to ship the car to Germany. I know better now about the fuel lines, and I have apologized for it when I used this picture in other posts. I just didn't bother to mention the fuel lines when I used at this time, and I was wondering how long it would be before somebody mentioned the fire hazard!
:pray: :angry:
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