Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Kevin,
I would like to buy the belt roller guide you have available. Sending e-mail to confirm.
Scott
I would like to buy the belt roller guide you have available. Sending e-mail to confirm.
Scott
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
A little update on the roller guides- After repeated delays, the first small batch of the production mounts have been completed. All that is left to do is order more bearings, shoulder bolts and shims which should be received in a couple more weeks at most. Finally, I can start taking orders for these!
A very special thanks to all of the beta testers!! The guides are 280.00 + a ruff estimated 15.00 shipping, although I will get an accurate shipping cost for each order.
A very special thanks to all of the beta testers!! The guides are 280.00 + a ruff estimated 15.00 shipping, although I will get an accurate shipping cost for each order.
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
]Update: my batch got sold out quick and left me with way more orders to fill... to make sure I get everyone in that wants one, this next run will be a group purchase. These are 280.00 +15.42 for flat rate shipping. To get in on the run, please pay at least 1/2 down and the remainder prior to shipping. Im fairly confident that these will be ready to ship before the end of the year, but, at the very latest, by February. If you want in on this run, please send an email to me at wrokit@hotmail.com
Thanks all for your interest in this project!!

Thanks all for your interest in this project!!
- Phil Dally
- Posts: 1510
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:47 am
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
P/M & email sent!!
CA Central Coast
Sidewinder Forever
Hulkster Gets a Diesel
Gem is Still My Favorite
Zonker Gets Turbo Motor
LA Angels Fan Since 1978
World Series Champs 2002
F/BGALT Best 148.253mph
Sandrail in 64 Started it All
Former Owner of SuperVair
Sidewinder Forever
Hulkster Gets a Diesel
Gem is Still My Favorite
Zonker Gets Turbo Motor
LA Angels Fan Since 1978
World Series Champs 2002
F/BGALT Best 148.253mph
Sandrail in 64 Started it All
Former Owner of SuperVair
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Man, I should have got on the beta test!
The video you posted above is mine. I can flip almost any setup!!! Based on the video I did, I mounted some teflon guide as close to the crank pulley as possible, seems to work for now, but I have gone through so many belts playing around, I am a bit gun shy now!
I will probably contact you for a guide. I am curious, as someone question me about using roller bearings, is there concern with bearing speed / life with that small of a guide and almost continuous contact? Small diameter roller = higher bearing speed (than say a belt pulley).
Also, if you really want to test it, you need to do high RPM downshifts, that is what was killing my belts! I could not tell if you where doing aggressive downshifts in the video. The wild flips in my video were about a 4700 rpm to 5200 rpm downshift. The belts HATE those! (Some might ask, why the heck would you ever do that?! Well, when decelerating into a corner, it's far better to be able to downshift and be in gear before full turn in than try and don that in the middle of the corner!)
I do want to do another video though, to do a comparison of a stock fan to one of yours (I got a purple one!). I am not sure if it will make it better or worse! It's pretty clear from my video, the crank is where the issue is, and rapid RPM changes are the primary enemy. Lower HP fan = more rapid RPM changes. But then again, the belt is a bit of dampener in the system and lower fan drag means less tightness on the tight side and less slack on the slack side(?)
Also of note (I think I put this in the YouTube video comments). Tightening a belt to stock specs (with is very tight compared to what most recommend these days) and running a modified engine hard WILL stretch the belt. About 1.5 inches total length from what I have seen / measured. I have no idea how a quality wrapped belt can do that, but it does.
The video you posted above is mine. I can flip almost any setup!!! Based on the video I did, I mounted some teflon guide as close to the crank pulley as possible, seems to work for now, but I have gone through so many belts playing around, I am a bit gun shy now!
I will probably contact you for a guide. I am curious, as someone question me about using roller bearings, is there concern with bearing speed / life with that small of a guide and almost continuous contact? Small diameter roller = higher bearing speed (than say a belt pulley).
Also, if you really want to test it, you need to do high RPM downshifts, that is what was killing my belts! I could not tell if you where doing aggressive downshifts in the video. The wild flips in my video were about a 4700 rpm to 5200 rpm downshift. The belts HATE those! (Some might ask, why the heck would you ever do that?! Well, when decelerating into a corner, it's far better to be able to downshift and be in gear before full turn in than try and don that in the middle of the corner!)
I do want to do another video though, to do a comparison of a stock fan to one of yours (I got a purple one!). I am not sure if it will make it better or worse! It's pretty clear from my video, the crank is where the issue is, and rapid RPM changes are the primary enemy. Lower HP fan = more rapid RPM changes. But then again, the belt is a bit of dampener in the system and lower fan drag means less tightness on the tight side and less slack on the slack side(?)
Also of note (I think I put this in the YouTube video comments). Tightening a belt to stock specs (with is very tight compared to what most recommend these days) and running a modified engine hard WILL stretch the belt. About 1.5 inches total length from what I have seen / measured. I have no idea how a quality wrapped belt can do that, but it does.
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Yes-your video is one of the best shot, best lit vids on that subject and have put mine to shame... hell of a job!
Heres a short summary of the testing- 8 separate engines, 4 Nashfan, 4 mag fans. Everyone has been told to try as hard as they possibly can to either pop the belt or at least roll it. Speed shifting, extra tight belts, high rpms, 2 autocross cars, one of which (Kevin Wilsons old car) would chuck or roll the belt every single time it ran, and has tried both styles of spring loaded idlers, variety of belt tensioning without, ect. Nothing worked until he put the roller guide on. 4 nasty 6400 rpm runs and no belt tossing. The other guy went out to 6800 rpm with an extra tight belt with a mag fan. One guy tried manually downshifting with a PG. I tried dowshifting out of 4rth into second. One of my first testers was a racer over seas with a Nashfan and prior to getting the roller guide literally could not keep a belt on for more than 2 laps, and was always on the 3-2 downshift when it would pop. No belt tossing or rolling since putting the guide on!! This past year he completed his first full season of racing. He's really damn happy with that guide AND how well his Nashfan works and keeps his 250+hp turbo car cool and embarassing V8's with it. The roller guide has worked on everything its been run on!
The speed rating for those bearings are sufficient to handle 7000 rpm for the engine, and that is roughly 65000 rpm for the rollers. The rollers, despite their small diameter have a very easy life compared to the idler, as the load they see is a tiny fraction of their load rating. I think the load rating for each roller is 100 lbs but the load from the belt should normally be less than 1lb. The rollers job is to bump the belt back into line (quickly) before the small deflection becomes a big one, and end up "transmitting" a large amount of slack belt close to straight through the idler instead of bucking or getting off line. More than a little off line and theres some dragging which causes the slack side (between the crank and right roller) to get a little more slack, and also causes the side between the idler and rollers to tighten up which is what you want! This quick feedback also reduces the load on the rollers by pulling the belt through. Kinda like trying to pull a bent wet noodle straight versus pushing on it from the other end!
Heres a short summary of the testing- 8 separate engines, 4 Nashfan, 4 mag fans. Everyone has been told to try as hard as they possibly can to either pop the belt or at least roll it. Speed shifting, extra tight belts, high rpms, 2 autocross cars, one of which (Kevin Wilsons old car) would chuck or roll the belt every single time it ran, and has tried both styles of spring loaded idlers, variety of belt tensioning without, ect. Nothing worked until he put the roller guide on. 4 nasty 6400 rpm runs and no belt tossing. The other guy went out to 6800 rpm with an extra tight belt with a mag fan. One guy tried manually downshifting with a PG. I tried dowshifting out of 4rth into second. One of my first testers was a racer over seas with a Nashfan and prior to getting the roller guide literally could not keep a belt on for more than 2 laps, and was always on the 3-2 downshift when it would pop. No belt tossing or rolling since putting the guide on!! This past year he completed his first full season of racing. He's really damn happy with that guide AND how well his Nashfan works and keeps his 250+hp turbo car cool and embarassing V8's with it. The roller guide has worked on everything its been run on!
The speed rating for those bearings are sufficient to handle 7000 rpm for the engine, and that is roughly 65000 rpm for the rollers. The rollers, despite their small diameter have a very easy life compared to the idler, as the load they see is a tiny fraction of their load rating. I think the load rating for each roller is 100 lbs but the load from the belt should normally be less than 1lb. The rollers job is to bump the belt back into line (quickly) before the small deflection becomes a big one, and end up "transmitting" a large amount of slack belt close to straight through the idler instead of bucking or getting off line. More than a little off line and theres some dragging which causes the slack side (between the crank and right roller) to get a little more slack, and also causes the side between the idler and rollers to tighten up which is what you want! This quick feedback also reduces the load on the rollers by pulling the belt through. Kinda like trying to pull a bent wet noodle straight versus pushing on it from the other end!
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Heres the update on this first run of guides- Machining of the mounts started yesterday, and we are roughly 50% done with them. The delays have been from various bigger customers needing their stuff done first.
- Phil Dally
- Posts: 1510
- Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:47 am
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Corvair owners are little fish in a huge sea of bigger fish!!
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Update #2: The mounts were finished 2 days ago, and material for both the rollers and inner bearing race supports has been ordered. The rollers and sleeves should be finished by the end of this coming week or early the week following. It does appear that I will have plenty of extras for those that wanted in after the run started. We are still on track to ship these by the end of March or early April at the latest.
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Hey, if you havent already could you post or just explain the installaton procedure?
Looks real straitforward.....
But I'd like to see the particulars.
Looks real straitforward.....
But I'd like to see the particulars.
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Update #3 The guides should be shipping within the next 2 weeks, and at the very latest, by the 30th of this month-I finally have all the parts I need to build them all, I just need to build them all and be sure they all pass my QC, box and ship them out.
Jake- heres the ruff install instructions, without pictures: Remove the right shoulder bolt from the roller guide- this should be done over a paper towel, as theres a shim between the roller and the mount. I send these units out assembled with both bolts cinched down as they should be when using, and I want the customer to see how tight these bolts are meant to be torgued, and see how the rollers are shimmed. Remove both the front adjustor nut and the thick washer from your idler stand, remove the rear pivot bolt on the idler stand, remove the stock idler pulley guide if you have one. Now is a good time to inspect your belt, replace it if its old...Install the guide: Holding the idler stand in the forward position, add the roller guide, first on the front pivot stud, and then line up the rear pivot hole on the idler and roller guide hole, and install the rear pivot bolt through both. Snug both the rear pivot bolt and front adjustor nut "finger tight". Now get the belt into position, and get it close to its final tension, and add the right roller which had been removed on the first step and torque the bolt about as tight as it was when recieved. Check how perpendicular the belt line is to the shoulder bolts, and slide the guide up or down on the front pivot until best squareness is achieved by "eyeball". Then snug the belt to its final tension, and enjoy!
Jake- heres the ruff install instructions, without pictures: Remove the right shoulder bolt from the roller guide- this should be done over a paper towel, as theres a shim between the roller and the mount. I send these units out assembled with both bolts cinched down as they should be when using, and I want the customer to see how tight these bolts are meant to be torgued, and see how the rollers are shimmed. Remove both the front adjustor nut and the thick washer from your idler stand, remove the rear pivot bolt on the idler stand, remove the stock idler pulley guide if you have one. Now is a good time to inspect your belt, replace it if its old...Install the guide: Holding the idler stand in the forward position, add the roller guide, first on the front pivot stud, and then line up the rear pivot hole on the idler and roller guide hole, and install the rear pivot bolt through both. Snug both the rear pivot bolt and front adjustor nut "finger tight". Now get the belt into position, and get it close to its final tension, and add the right roller which had been removed on the first step and torque the bolt about as tight as it was when recieved. Check how perpendicular the belt line is to the shoulder bolts, and slide the guide up or down on the front pivot until best squareness is achieved by "eyeball". Then snug the belt to its final tension, and enjoy!
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Thanks!
Cant wait to get it installed!
Cant wait to get it installed!
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Update #4: The roller guides start shipping Thursday or Friday this week.
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
Update #5
As of today, I shipped out the last of the orders to folks on the run and do have 2 extras built up and ready to be shipped- the first to send money in will get these!
As of today, I shipped out the last of the orders to folks on the run and do have 2 extras built up and ready to be shipped- the first to send money in will get these!
Re: Fan belt roller guide demonstration
I just sent you my money Kevin, sure hope you still had one for me!