WAKE UP
- TonyL
- Corvair of the Month
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:00 pm
- Location: Yuba City California
Re: WAKE UP
Sorry, been busy this week. polishing wheels SUCKS. anyone ever tried it??
before
after
before
after
Re: WAKE UP
lookin good Tony!
finally got comprehensive on my vair...been carrying "just" liability and the other piddley required crap...decided to step it up for a little tiny increase in insurance.
bedtime!
finally got comprehensive on my vair...been carrying "just" liability and the other piddley required crap...decided to step it up for a little tiny increase in insurance.
bedtime!
Re: WAKE UP
I'm awake - I've been busier than heck taking advantage of the springlike weather.
I started my Vair on Tuesday and swapped spaces with my Vette so I could do a few things on it before I get serious on the Vair.
First I played around with the timing. I replaced my silly electronic MSD E-Curve dizzy with a more conventional MSD unit but I never really dialed in the ignition curve. The other day I turned the dizzy and took it for a spin . It was very sluggish and would die at stoplights and I had to neutral drop it just to get moving . I turned it the other way and it really woke up. The idle was much higher but the difference in response was amazing.
Then it started shifting weird. The upshift speed was way too high. At first I thought it was just from the increased vacuum from the timing change but within a few minutes it wouldn't even upshift to high at all (Built 350 Turbo auto).
I figured it was a vacuum line or modulator. With my sidepipes it's hard to reach underneath but the vacuum line felt like it was in place.
After I jacked it up it was obvious that the rubber hose was cracked and leaking. I replaced the hose and all was well. It shifts really hard under power with 3.70 gears.
I also wanted to fix a squeaky right rear brake that was driving me nuts. It would kinda squeak or chirp when warm and sounded alot like a U-joint but would quiet down with a slight application of the brakes. I( figured on just getting the rotor resurfaced but it was already thinner than minimum specs so I ordered a new one.
In the meantime I changed the oil ( 10w30 Castrol Dino oil) and I got out the buffer and gave it a good shine. I also removed the wheels and gave them a good buffing.
While I was at it I removed the sidepipes and got rid of the silly spiral turbo baffles and I replacing them with sections of old fashioned Chevy chambered exhaust that should make it sound more like I like it.
I've also been cleaning and arranging my work area to be able to start final assembly on my latest vair motor. I'm kinda bummed because so far I can only find 11 rod bearing halves of my fancy anti friction coated bearings. The motor assembly should start within a week and I'll keep you up to date on the progress.
The Vette is my Fair weatrher driver but my vair is the car that really means something to me.
I started my Vair on Tuesday and swapped spaces with my Vette so I could do a few things on it before I get serious on the Vair.
First I played around with the timing. I replaced my silly electronic MSD E-Curve dizzy with a more conventional MSD unit but I never really dialed in the ignition curve. The other day I turned the dizzy and took it for a spin . It was very sluggish and would die at stoplights and I had to neutral drop it just to get moving . I turned it the other way and it really woke up. The idle was much higher but the difference in response was amazing.
Then it started shifting weird. The upshift speed was way too high. At first I thought it was just from the increased vacuum from the timing change but within a few minutes it wouldn't even upshift to high at all (Built 350 Turbo auto).
I figured it was a vacuum line or modulator. With my sidepipes it's hard to reach underneath but the vacuum line felt like it was in place.
After I jacked it up it was obvious that the rubber hose was cracked and leaking. I replaced the hose and all was well. It shifts really hard under power with 3.70 gears.
I also wanted to fix a squeaky right rear brake that was driving me nuts. It would kinda squeak or chirp when warm and sounded alot like a U-joint but would quiet down with a slight application of the brakes. I( figured on just getting the rotor resurfaced but it was already thinner than minimum specs so I ordered a new one.
In the meantime I changed the oil ( 10w30 Castrol Dino oil) and I got out the buffer and gave it a good shine. I also removed the wheels and gave them a good buffing.
While I was at it I removed the sidepipes and got rid of the silly spiral turbo baffles and I replacing them with sections of old fashioned Chevy chambered exhaust that should make it sound more like I like it.
I've also been cleaning and arranging my work area to be able to start final assembly on my latest vair motor. I'm kinda bummed because so far I can only find 11 rod bearing halves of my fancy anti friction coated bearings. The motor assembly should start within a week and I'll keep you up to date on the progress.
The Vette is my Fair weatrher driver but my vair is the car that really means something to me.
Kevin Willson
1965 Monza 3.1
Juneau Alaska
1965 Monza 3.1
Juneau Alaska
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- Corvair of the Month
- Posts: 745
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:50 am
- Location: Maine
Re: WAKE UP
I've posted....
I tried polishing these wheels for my Jeep. Someone had sandblasted them. I have about 8 hours in the shinest one alone and it's not close to being done. I think I'm going to sand them smooth and either powdercoat in chrome or paint in a bright silver/aluminum color.
I tried polishing these wheels for my Jeep. Someone had sandblasted them. I have about 8 hours in the shinest one alone and it's not close to being done. I think I'm going to sand them smooth and either powdercoat in chrome or paint in a bright silver/aluminum color.
1966 Corsa convertible, 140, 4sp.
1965 Monza Convertible, 110, PG.
Dirigo Corvair group.
http://www.dirigocorvairs.net/
1965 Monza Convertible, 110, PG.
Dirigo Corvair group.
http://www.dirigocorvairs.net/
- TonyL
- Corvair of the Month
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:00 pm
- Location: Yuba City California
Re: WAKE UP
I started off with 180 sandpaper, then red scotchbright, then gray, then 1500 wet sand paper. Then bust loose with the mothers wheel polishing cone attached to a variable speed drill. It takes 5 or 6 full passes, then they're done.
Re: WAKE UP
Not sure where you got that number RAV? I counted around 37 posts from the 17th till the time you posted this one.RAV_AIR wrote:
WAKE UP PEOPLE!!!!!!!!! NO POSTS IN TWO DAYS?!?!?!?!?!
Scott
1960 Monza Coupe
1965 Evening Orchid Corsa Turbo (project)
1961 Rampside (project)
1964 Spyder coupe (patina car, running)
1964 faux Spyder (project/parts car)
1964 Monza (parts car)
1963 Monza (parts car)
1960 Monza Coupe
1965 Evening Orchid Corsa Turbo (project)
1961 Rampside (project)
1964 Spyder coupe (patina car, running)
1964 faux Spyder (project/parts car)
1964 Monza (parts car)
1963 Monza (parts car)
Re: WAKE UP
For you guys polishing old wheels -- Brasso says on the label not to use on aluminum but it works great and it's cheaper than most wheel polishes.
I also like using the wadding for wheels for final shining but I save the old wadding for using with the Brasso.
The Power balls do work pretty well. You can also get mini foam polishing pads that will work in a cordless drill.
Elbow grease is helpful too.
I also like using the wadding for wheels for final shining but I save the old wadding for using with the Brasso.
The Power balls do work pretty well. You can also get mini foam polishing pads that will work in a cordless drill.
Elbow grease is helpful too.
Kevin Willson
1965 Monza 3.1
Juneau Alaska
1965 Monza 3.1
Juneau Alaska
Re: WAKE UP
Yikes Tony ... if I knew you were doing wheels I'd have sent you my first set of BBS ... I wanted a polished lip. Dang it man. Tell me next time. ggggg
Good looking wheels Tony.
Good looking wheels Tony.