New with 65 Corsa Conv. Turbo and 2 quick questions

[rotaryboy23]

Hi guys.

Dunno how active this forum is, but here goes:
Finally pulled the '65 Corsa vert out of storage to start a resto.
Plan is to make keep it a low-budget weekend race/cruise car. Race seats, half cage, wheels, suspension, etc. etc.
I'm used to looking at rotaries, so this is a little different and these might be stupid questions:


According to the vin, the car was originally a turbo vert. Someone transplanted an RB code motor, which (to the extent my limited knowledge) is the 65-66 motor. I would like to put a turbo back in it eventually.

1)Can I put turbo heads on this motor and safely boost it or are they internally different?
2) The motor has to come for sand blasting anyways. Easier to drop it out the bottom or lift it out?

--Mike

[Scott H]

1) The Turbo heads, cam and Crank are different, but the ('64 and up) blocks are the same. So yes you can put turbo heads on that block.
2) Easier to drop motor/trans/diff as one unit out the bottom.

I do have a '65 turbo crank and block I could sell.

[Scott H]

oh and welcome to the site!

[Goop Of Oil]

According to the vin, the car was originally a turbo vert. Someone transplanted an RB code motor, which (to the extent my limited knowledge) is the 65-66 motor. I would like to put a turbo back in it eventually.

1)Can I put turbo heads on this motor and safely boost it or are they internally different?
2) The motor has to come for sand blasting anyways. Easier to drop it out the bottom or lift it out?

--Mike

Hi Mike and welcome to the club.

1) YES you can put turbo heads on the RB (140HP) Block. The 140 Crankshaft is Nitrided like the 180 Crank so it can take the heat. You will need to find a Turbo distributor or at Least the Pressure Retard for one. While the engine is out, look for a Rear Housing with the 24 degree tab on it to help later with setting the timing. This is NOT necessary but does look nice.

2) If you drop the sand on the top, it will come out the bottom. I mean, use a floor jack and drop it out the bottom WITH the Trans-axle if you are not familiar with leaving the trans-axle IN. Much safer for the input shaft.

What did you look at that told you that the car is a Turbo Corsa? 107675 indicates that it is a 1965 Corsa Convertible. It will not tell you what engine it came with.
http://www.oldride.com/library/1965_che ... rvair.html

The best way to tell if it is an original Late Turbo Corvair is if it has the Flanged-Cut-Out for the exhaust on the Right Hand side as in the picture below. If there was body repair on the rear panel and there is no cut out, the next best way is to look for evidence of a small Fuel Return Line by taking the tunnel pan off and looking for the smaller Steel return line.



Read #16 in this Clarks ad;

Post some pictures when you get a chance Mike! and again, Welcome.

[4carbcorvair]

Or check the acc line on the bottom of the Fisher body tag. It will tell you if it's a true turbo car, provided it has not been swapped. Along with checking GOO suggestions.

I don't believe a Corvair engine will even fit UP through the engine compartment? Not without some twisting and fanageling. As mentioned, drop the complete drivetrain out thru the bottome. Being carefull when you seperate/install the differential not to break the snout for the input shaft/thro-out bearing.

[Goop Of Oil]

According to this website below, the code you want to see is the Letter O on the Fisher Body tag for the Turbo Option.
http://wittelaw.com/personal/buildtag/index.htm
It shows you where it should be also.

[rotaryboy23]

The body tag indicated it was a turbo and it has the exhaust cutout you showed, so it should be a turbo vert!
The motor isn't though, but it ran when we parked the car a couple years ago, so I'm hoping I can just get heads for it and start building the turbo kit. That's a long way off though. The body is pretty bad. It's rusty at all 4 corners, needs floor pans, Could use 2 full new rear quarters... Only fiberglass repros available nowadays, I guess?

Also, the shifter doesn't seem to want to find reverse (4spd trans), despite my best adjustment efforts. The car came with a spare 3 spd manual, so I was wondering if there was a difference between the 3spd and 4spd shifters or if it would just be a really big linkage adjustment problem?

You guys are a great help! Thanks!

[autoxer]

In '65 there was a difference in the shifters - the 3 speed is quicker, believe it or not. Most likely your shifter has one or more of the usual things worn or missing - tube bushings, coupler, and the pins in the shifter base. See my site for more info:

http://autoxer.skiblack.com/shifter.html

--Bryan

[flat6_musik]

You're positive it's a 4-speed and not a 3-speed? It WOULD explain a lot.......:)

[rotaryboy23]

lol.It would, but I found 4 forward gears, but couldn't find reverse. Also, there was a spare 3spd trans that came with the car, which is why I thought if there was a difference between the shifters, it might be a 3spd shifter on a 4spd trans

The shifter was extremely sloppy/vague, so it may just be adjustment,

[terribleted]

lol.It would, but I found 4 forward gears, but couldn't find reverse. Also, there was a spare 3spd trans that came with the car, which is why I thought if there was a difference between the shifters, it might be a 3spd shifter on a 4spd trans

The shifter was extremely sloppy/vague, so it may just be adjustment,

Look at the condition of the shift coupler where it hooks to the shaft at the front of the transmission. It is possible your no reverse issue and most of your slop is simply wear on the coupler and pin which is common on these cars. Replacement couplers and hardware are available from Clark's. (Hope this is your issue...a simple fix)