hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

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DROPTOPTOMMY
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2018 5:03 pm

hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by DROPTOPTOMMY »

hello all i just picked up a 63 vert
it has a dead motor and its a 4 speed car
previous owner says it needs a new transmission but i'm not sold on that
any leads towards a suitable used motor would be appreciated !
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Apittslife
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by Apittslife »

Nice lookin car, I would get a 2nd opinion on the condition of the engine prior to finding a replacement. Unless it is stuck? Engines can be had, just a matter as to what HP you are wanting & how much you are willing to spend to get it.
DROPTOPTOMMY
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by DROPTOPTOMMY »

thanks. i actually have spoken to the shop that diagnosed the motor...... excessive crank walk killed it
just got back from picking her up.
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Jerry Whitt
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by Jerry Whitt »

The term “excessive crank walk” is not commonly used terminology. Wonder if the tech really was not familiar with Corvairs


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larry202br
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by larry202br »

Welcome Tommy.

I've not heard the term excessive crank walk as it relates to a Corvair either. One thing I've heard of, although rare, is a broken crankshaft due to an improper harmonic balancer. Where are you located? There may be a local Corvair club that can help you diagnose your engine.
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bbodie52
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by bbodie52 »

:wave: :welcome2: Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

The term "excessive crank walk" is not one that I've heard associated with Corvair engines. From what I've read it is a term related to excessive thrust bearing surface wear and possibly related to hard clutch engagement issues. I would suggest some further diagnostic testing of your engine, to see if it is mechanically sound and possibly capable of being started. You may in fact discover a mechanical failure that would demand an overhaul, but some investigative work to discover the true mechanical nature of your Corvair is certainly worthwhile. My first engine overhaul was on a $100 1963 Corvair 500 coupe that my father purchased as a learning exercise for me back in 1969. I was 16 years old and taught myself to remove the powertrain and to rebuild the engine (successfully). I did the work during my high school summer vacation. When I started, I could not even turn the engine with a wrench. It was frozen, but a valve job, new bearings, rings, gaskets and seals, and a careful examination while following the shop manual produced a reliable engine that I transplanted into a 1962 Monza coupe that provided reliable transportation for years.

Do you have any mechanical experience? Do you have a supply of tools, jack stands, a floor jack, and a garage to work in? Your technical background, experience, or willingness to learn will certainly impact any recommendations and advice you may receive from experienced Corvair owners here on the Corvair Forum!

The link below will provide you with a list of useful websites that are Corvair-related. Some of the links will lead you to an extensive technical library that will allow you to download shop manuals and other technical references in Adobe Reader format at no cost. There is also a link that will help you to locate nearby CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters. While the Corvair Forum can be very helpful as you work on your Corvair, having local friends and contacts in your region who are knowledgeable about the Corvair can also be very helpful. These family-friendly CORSA chapters often offer picnics, group scenic drives, technical training and assistance, car shows, and competition events that can greatly enhance your enjoyment of Corvair ownership. You will also find a list of essential Corvair parts suppliers. Clark's Corvair Parts is the biggest and oldest Corvair supplier in the world. You will find a link that can provide you with a series of videos that amount to a tour of the Clark's Corvair Parts facilities. I think you will be amazed at the quality of the reproduction components they offer — particularly the interior carpeting and re-upholstery items. Parts suppliers such as this truly make our Corvair hobby possible.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

:dontknow: I would like to encourage you to expand on your earlier posts and tell us more about yourself. If you can describe your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Knowing your specific location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities.
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DROPTOPTOMMY
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by DROPTOPTOMMY »

thanks for the helpful information.
i spoke again to the tech who diagnosed it and he now recalls that the crank shaft is broken he is an older guy
i have access to an array of tools as well as a lift. im starting to believe tearing down the motor for inspection should be my first step although if i could find a runner be on it in a heart beat lol
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bbodie52
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by bbodie52 »

Where do you live? There may be a local CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapter near you. Members often offer direct assistance, tools, parts and local advice that could be useful as you go through the Corvair learning process.

A broken crankshaft in a stock Corvair engine is somewhat unusual. I would recommend downloading the appropriate shop manuals and then pulling the carburetors, top engine shroud, and crankcase top cover to take a look at your engine crankshaft.

The attached Corvair and Corvair 95 Power Train Removal & Installation is a good supplement to the information in the shop manual. Page 10 (bottom) illustrates the balance point (front to back). The oil pan drain plug is a good side-to-side reference point. After you have removed and disconnected everything around the perimeter of the powertrain and engine compartment that links the engine and transaxle to the car, you can position the jack (and a piece of plywood, if needed, to protect the underside of the engine), in the "best guess" balance position. Remove the three attaching nuts that secure the front transmission mount to the two rubber mounts, and the rear center rubber mount to the engine. As you slowly lower the powertrain, observe the front and rear attachment points to see of the powertrain appears to be coming down evenly. If the rear or front comes down first, you can raise the powertrain again, temporarily reinstall the three attaching nuts, and then make an adjustment to the jack position. After a little trial and error you should see the entire assembly coming down evenly so that it can be slowly lowered to ground level and wheeled from under the car. The shift linkage at the front of the manual transmission tends to hang up on the transmission mount, so you many have to maneuver the hardware a bit to clear the two components on the way down. (One or two safety observers/assistants is nice to have around, but I did manage to remove the powertrain by myself for the first time in 1969 when I was sixteen and survived to tell the tale! I was definitely sweating a lot and showing signs of being nervous at the time, but it can be done).

:wrench: When you separate the engine from the transaxle, use caution. The problem with the manual transaxle is that the long input shaft (23-24 inches) tends to remain embedded in the pilot bushing and clutch disc, while the other (smaller) end of the splined shaft pulls free from the transmission. As the two heavy components separate, any misalignment that is permitted risks leverage being applied by the input shaft against the throwout bearing shaft, which can fracture this machined casting. Replacing a damaged throwout bearing shaft requires dismantling the differential.

Use caution when separating the heavy transaxle from the engine. If the input shaft remains embedded in the clutch, you must pull the transaxle straight back about 24 inches until the other end clears the transaxle. If you have an assistant, the assistant may be able to reach between the differential face and the bell housing to grab the input shaft and pull it free from the clutch assembly — reducing the risk of damaging the input shaft, clutch disc, or throw-out bearing shaft.

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With the engine and transaxle separated, be sure to inspect the throwout bearing shaft completely for cracks or fractures. The input shaft seal should be replaced when doing a clutch job, to ensure that no gear lube will leak onto the clutch assembly during operation. Also, when prying the input shaft retaining ring and seal out, be careful not to apply leverage against the end of the throwout bearing shaft, as excess leverage with a screwdriver or similar tool could conceivably cause a crack to form on the throwout bearing shaft.

:chevy:
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Brad Bodie
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dave t
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by dave t »

bbodie52 wrote:Where do you live? There may be a local CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapter near you. Members often offer direct assistance, tools, parts and local advice that could be useful as you go through the Corvair learning process.

A broken crankshaft in a stock Corvair engine is somewhat unusual. I would recommend downloading the appropriate shop manuals and then pulling the carburetors, top engine shroud, and crankcase top cover to take a look at your engine crankshaft.

The attached Corvair and Corvair 95 Power Train Removal & Installation is a good supplement to the information in the shop manual. Page 10 (bottom) illustrates the balance point (front to back). The oil pan drain plug is a good side-to-side reference point. After you have removed and disconnected everything around the perimeter of the powertrain and engine compartment that links the engine and transaxle to the car, you can position the jack (and a piece of plywood, if needed, to protect the underside of the engine), in the "best guess" balance position. Remove the three attaching nuts that secure the front transmission mount to the two rubber mounts, and the rear center rubber mount to the engine. As you slowly lower the powertrain, observe the front and rear attachment points to see of the powertrain appears to be coming down evenly. If the rear or front comes down first, you can raise the powertrain again, temporarily reinstall the three attaching nuts, and then make an adjustment to the jack position. After a little trial and error you should see the entire assembly coming down evenly so that it can be slowly lowered to ground level and wheeled from under the car. The shift linkage at the front of the manual transmission tends to hang up on the transmission mount, so you many have to maneuver the hardware a bit to clear the two components on the way down. (One or two safety observers/assistants is nice to have around, but I did manage to remove the powertrain by myself for the first time in 1969 when I was sixteen and survived to tell the tale! I was definitely sweating a lot and showing signs of being nervous at the time, but it can be done).

:wrench: When you separate the engine from the transaxle, use caution. The problem with the manual transaxle is that the long input shaft (23-24 inches) tends to remain embedded in the pilot bushing and clutch disc, while the other (smaller) end of the splined shaft pulls free from the transmission. As the two heavy components separate, any misalignment that is permitted risks leverage being applied by the input shaft against the throwout bearing shaft, which can fracture this machined casting. Replacing a damaged throwout bearing shaft requires dismantling the differential.

Use caution when separating the heavy transaxle from the engine. If the input shaft remains embedded in the clutch, you must pull the transaxle straight back about 24 inches until the other end clears the transaxle. If you have an assistant, the assistant may be able to reach between the differential face and the bell housing to grab the input shaft and pull it free from the clutch assembly — reducing the risk of damaging the input shaft, clutch disc, or throw-out bearing shaft.

Image
Image

With the engine and transaxle separated, be sure to inspect the throwout bearing shaft completely for cracks or fractures. The input shaft seal should be replaced when doing a clutch job, to ensure that no gear lube will leak onto the clutch assembly during operation. Also, when prying the input shaft retaining ring and seal out, be careful not to apply leverage against the end of the throwout bearing shaft, as excess leverage with a screwdriver or similar tool could conceivably cause a crack to form on the throwout bearing shaft.

:chevy:
You said you had access to a lift. You can raise the car and move a wheeled table under the drive train. Disconnect everything and raise the car off of the drive train. Not only that, the drive train is now on a table for easier working. Do the opposite for the install.

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DROPTOPTOMMY
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Re: hello i'm a new member my name is tommy

Post by DROPTOPTOMMY »

UPDATE ! ok well i found a running motor in a dune buggy that had not run in perhaps 4 years maybe less
i went to the buggy there was no spark coming out of the cap so i replace the cap and rotor
also changed the plugs .....i could not get wires ......any way the motor runs and quite well i believe its a 140

dave the original motor was already out of the car and i have not had a chance to retrieve it yet because of scheduling differences .....

brad thanks for the helpfull info !
i need some odds and ends from the original motor
the wire i believe goes to the coil has no power
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