Corvair Forum

Yes... This is the very first prototype, only 1 of 2. Soon there will be a small bunch being shipped to customer's, and I wont be the only one that knows what its like to have a fan like this...I'm sure it will turn out to be as important a modification as EFI is. The combination of the EFI and the ...

Here's mine... port injected early turbo. The engine temp sensor is at the end of the #1 head and is more or less measuring the port temperature, which is giving the best indication of fuel evaporation. I've found that it is best to use the "stock" engine temp sensor values that come with ...

The reason "there isn't enough exhaust" is because there isn't enough intake from that puny little yh. There's a lot more to it than simply displacement of the engine. It matters a heck of a lot more as to the relative size of the intake compressor vs the exhaust turbine than displacement ...

Here's how my car runs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf0WBG2afrI With a twin turbo (parallel like you are thinking about), with 2 stock F-flow turbo's, it will have 800 cfm worth of airflow. A single E-flow compressor is rated at around 650 cfm and is in it's sweet spot between 15 and 25 psi of b...

Twin turbo in parallel has been done a few times... a guy I know built one in the 70's and he did it exactly the way Hughe MacInnes did his as shown in his fine book "Turbochargers". He used 140 heads and had no problem hitting 25psi of boost. What a lot of people don't realize is that it ...

Your head temperatures are normal for a stock/near stock Turbo... but it is NOT good for the heads to be run like that. The big reason it is running hot is TIMING! most N/A Corvairs at freeway speeds will be around 40-50 degree's of timing, because of the vacuum advance. As far as I know, the stock ...

It wont hurt anything to run it that way once or twice, but it is really bad for the oil to run it repeatedly in this kind of weather without the damper doors operating correctly. It wont warm up, gas ends up in the oil and begins foaming. Even if you can wire the doors to open 1/2 to 3/4 of full op...

Years ago, when I had a 140 in one of my early Spyders, I put untold 1000's of miles on it without dropping any valve seats and only one time that I remember hit the overtemp warning buzzer (575f)… this was caused for multiple reasons that were mostly my fault (extra heavy right foot and hot day mos...

Some interesting things about my fan... It is purposely made to have a lot of extra output for "high heat producers"... those applications where even when running with the lower shrouds off, the cooling is "iffy" with the stock fan. For lower heat demand applications, or those th...

Any time head temps exceed 350, the valve seats begin losing their press fit. At 375F, which is a normal peak temperature for air cooled airplane engines, its a matter of a few thousand hours before the seats have to be replaced. At 400 degrees, its 100 hrs or less and 450 maybe only 50hrs at best. ...

It should be noted any good centrifugal fan should have absolutely no problem hitting 50-60%, and can often get in the 70%+ range. The reason the Corvair fans can't do this is because they are all the wrong type to be used in an "open" housing and are HIGHLY dependant on being in a "b...

The peak efficiency for the 61-63 fan is 32% and occurs at around 3000 engine rpm, the peak efficiency for the mag fan is around 25% and is occurring at roughly the same rpm... it is all down hill after this engine rpm, by 5000 rpm, both fans are down to around 16% or less.

Just in case you haven't seen this!

The easy way is to get a good boost gage and hook that up in place of the stock one, as they've been known to get stuck or stop working. You are only supposed to get between 8 and 10 psi (+20 on the stock gage, as it is in inches of mercury). you wont see very much if any until the engine is warm an...