Corvair Forum

Looking Good!!

If it starts right up & you can drive it crank the idle screw on the back side of the left carb & see if it stay running then you can fine tune it from there. You should check the fuel to see the color, if it's brown looking clean the fuel tank before trying to set the carbs. Good luck &...

I bet on gummed up carbs. Likely need to disassemble and re-build them. After 6 years sitting could be this or corrosion or mal adjustment in the ignition system. Clean or replace the points and adjust points first and if no help go into the carbs. Also check for vacuum leaks at choke pull-offs and ...

Yup typical rust holes. Likely bad rocker on the one side anyway. You just really can not tell how bad these are until they are stripped to the bare metal, and even then some significant rust can be hiding.

flat6_musik wrote:I'm thinking that maybe there's too much "slop" or up/down play in the bearing behind the seal. The seal can only do so much to control oil, if the axle is jumping all around.

This or worn seal area on the shaft itself (grooved at all...worn area?), are what came to mind to me.

Uppers on the Corvair cars have 4 rivets in them so 4 hole replacements are used.

Well then you need to supply 12v to the ignition. The stock wiring harness has a resistor that decreases the voltage during normal operation to around 7V. This resistor wire must be bypassed with a regular wire. Supplying the Ignitor I with constant 12V did not used to be necessary, perhaps that has...

Which Pertronix unit did you get a I or a II. The II requires a hotter coil and rewiring the car to supply 12V at the coil. Did the car have these problems before you installed the ignition? If not something you did is likely at fault.

Could be a failing brake master cylinder. The push back on the brake pedal comes from the master cylinder piston spring. Either the master is not longer returning all the way, the brake light switch has gotten bumped and is out of adjustment, or the brake pedal rod is out of adjustment (too short). ...

Something I forgot to mention above. Some of these welders come in different versions. One Lincoln 135 has infinitely variable amp (heat) adjustment and another has this adjustment with a click stop 5 position switch. You want fully variable amp/heat adjustment. Often the setting the metal likes for...

The photos look not too terrible. Floors look pretty good. You have major rust in the left door hinge pocket and need to replace at least the outer layer from the bottom to where the top hole is in your photo along the edge near the interior anyway and likely to near the top of the pocket behind the...

I was hoping this is the case, with the car supported on the stands just in front of the suspension mounts, the stands are not far from the rear edge of the door, which means, with the engine and trans in place there is a lot of weight beyond the pivot point, with no interior weight etc to compensa...

having spent the last couple of months sorting the doors and door posts out, I am now trying to get the door gaps even etc. I am very concerned, that despite my efforts to put the strength back into the body, I have a variation in the top edge of the door gap of about 1mm...maybe 2mm depending on w...

Biggest problem with body gauge sheet metal welding is having a MIG that runs nicely at lower amperages. I had a Lincoln SP100 that was awesome for body panel gauge to about 1/8 steel with a single pass. They no longer offered this unit when the main circuit board fried after about 10 years of prett...

or get a better car

Yup in the absence of replacement roof panels, post panels, cowl panels etc., cutting out what is bad or weak and fabricating pieces of steel to weld in place of what is missing is the only repair that is really strong and lasts well. It is not particularly hard but good welding is needed for the be...