Corvair Forum

Sorry I missed that Ken already mentioned the punch fix.

merjas, If blocking the air bleed hole seems to solve the problem and you dont have another cluster, you can set the cluster on a vise and use a hammer and small flat punch to tap around and around the hole to gradually make it smaller. There are a few other ways to reduce the hole size. Also, be ...

Correct. shorten the master cylinder push rod about 1/4 inch and try it out. Something gave you the wrong impression of the pedal clearance. Or for some reason the piston may not be returning 100%. Pull the boot back enough to see if the piston is against the snap ring.

I've had a few badly worn early type 1-2 shift forks. But It was always quiker, easier and cheaper to repair them than to find , buy, and ship a new fork.

Corvden, I've this situation a few times where the bolt is only part way out. I was able to get a small "crow foot" pry bar ( or maybe make a tool to work) under the head of the bolt to pry up on it, which will hopefully keep the nut in its square hole as you slowly turn the bolt by hand.

There is an AZ close to me but I always look up what i want on they're web site and hand them the part number. In some cases if there are multiple choices, I can pick a name brand rather than go with the first part they would find. Your best bet around here if want good parts for an older car is ...

There is no "time to open". The time will always differ depending on how hard the engine is working, ambient temps, etc. But all your heat is blowing out those screens making it take longer for the thermo doors to open....if ever. Block off the heater out lets with solid plates . Then they will open ...

There is no "time to open". The time will always differ depending on how hard the engine is working, ambient temps, etc. But all your heat is blowing out those screens making it take longer for the thermo doors to open....if ever. Block off the heater out lets with solid plates . Then they will open ...

I once had a Corvette come in the shop that had suddenly started leaking puddles of oil. The owner said he had stopped the leak months ago with a stop-leak product but it just became worse than ever. It turned out the rubber of the rear main seal had swollen so much it had turned to mush and a large ...

It is pretty loud. Mine is not routed through the muffler(I run straight pipe) and you definitely know when it opens. So does everyone else around you. I like the sound, others may not. Straight pipe exhaust is loud but not terribly loud. The waste gate is significantly louder. Straight pipe waste ...

Also, any clue what causes this? If the pin end of the rod was heated with a torch, it may have been too hot and was stretched as they pushed the pin in place. Or if it was pressed together cold and not correctly aligned, the bore may be galled or stretched. I would look for damage to the piston ...

I doubt the bearing was wrong. That looks just like several I have run across that ran low on gear oil. I'll bet the race spun in the case and you'll find the bore in the case oversize and the bearing cup undersize from spinning. Not this time. I tried a M88010 race in the hole and it didn't want ...

NMVair wrote: ↑Sat Jun 15, 2024 6:32 am It works so beautiful for ten miles

In addition to everything already mentioned, I've seen this caused by a worn governor bore in the case and worn rear pump. The rear pump only works when the rear wheels are turning and the shift to high gear wont happen without its pressure.

66airvair, \Maybe you used 93 octane gas but I bet the previous owner didnt. Broken rings, broken lands, and excessive ring to groove clearance are all typical damage caused by detonation.

Oil was "spewing from #1 cylinder" ? You might run it a while longer at about 1K rpm and see if it decreases, stays the same or gets worse. And then based on what it does, consider removing the head and #1 cylinder first to see what you find . Normally,, a new engine shouldnt be smoking at all.

Scott H., I would be very afraid of all the those replacement studs you put in. As was said, the originals were very hard and they acted as "tensile springs" to expand an contract with the engine. That broken stud looks like its just common steel. Try clamping a Vise Grip on one of the new studs. If ...