County98's Learn as I Go Thread

[County98]

Damn, another whole year has gone by since I've gotten around to working on the 'Vair or posting. Time flies when you're old.

I've gotten the power pack bolted in, starter installed, Alternator upgrade from Clark's (63a 10SI), engine wiring finished up (that makes the whole car wiring done now. Waiting on a little final routing and cleanup until I make sure everything works.)

Todays project was a simple PCV setup. Reread a bunch of posts and diagrams from Bodie, and just winged it a little.

Air Cleaner cut using a hole saw. Ordered up a plastic, variable size, smog fitting.

Cut down shroud tube orifice ported to crossover tube.

Main/big opening of shroud tube to bottom of air cleaner.

Final. Anyone see any major flaws with this?

All look okay to everyone?

[County98]

Upgraded Alternator if anyone needs a pic of that.

Stinger distributor and full 12v coil. Mounted it to the vertical rear brace to keep heat down a bit.

Also using electric fuel pump, just did the fuel pump plug and flipping the lines. Working on that now.

[toms73novass]

The metal tube out of the "turkey roaster" where your tubing is connected has a restrictor orifice (small hole) on the hose that goes to your cross over pipe? Looks nice, If so I think your good!

[County98]

Yes sir. It's the stock tube from the turkey roaster, I just cut it down. That half is still stock, small orifice is piped to the crossover tube near firewall.

On a side note, I don't have the turkey roaster clamp and Clark's is out. If anyone has an extra laying around, PM me please?

[County98]

Flipped and tightened down the fuel lines.

The green stuff on the threads is Gasoila soft set fuel/oil pipe dope. I know it's not SUPPOSED to be needed on flare fittings, but with 13 fittings in the engine compartment, I figured a little insurance wouldn't hurt.

Passenger Side:

Driver Side:

Rear Tee:

Still need to take a look at how to shape and flare the main fuel feed through the firewall. Project for another day.

[66vairguy]

Nice work!

I "rotated" my fuel lines since I had an electric fuel pump.

I hooked up a similar PCV "J" pipe to my custom air cleaners. Works well. Once a year I notice a little motor oil film in the air cleaner and wipe it off. So far no need for a "collector can". Then again I'm not racing.

I installed all new Clark's pre-bent fuel lines and the first time I turned on the fuel pump I had SIX leaks! A wise buddy who worked on old English cars said they use copper flare gaskets on brake and fuel lines. I installed them and NOT ONE LEAK. I buy them on Amazon. DO NOT USE air conditioning flare gaskets as they have a slightly different shape. Look for Parker 2GF-4 (carbs) or 2GF-5 (larger fuel line from tank). AZdave once posted a nice picture of them. They are ONE time use, if the lines come apart then install new gaskets.

[County98]

Sweet, good tip! I have all new clark's prebent as well all the way from New tank. I haven't gotten it wet yet, but maybe later this week.

[2LZ]

Awesome work and excellent advice! I just converted to an e-pump with all flare fittings. Can't wait to see how many leaks.
Unless I missed it, have a link to the copper flare washers?

[County98]

I just searched Amazon for "Parker 2GF-4"
and "Parker 2GF-5". Popped right up and I have a 10pk of each in my cart, just in case.

[66vairguy]

I just searched Amazon for "Parker 2GF-4"
and "Parker 2GF-5". Popped right up and I have a 10pk of each in my cart, just in case.

I find them on Amazon, Grainger, and ebay. Prices vary, but watch the shipping costs.

[2LZ]

I just searched Amazon for "Parker 2GF-4"
and "Parker 2GF-5". Popped right up and I have a 10pk of each in my cart, just in case.

I find them on Amazon, Grainger, and ebay. Prices vary, but watch the shipping costs.

Thanks and wow, isn't that the truth.....

[joelsplace]

If fuel gets past the flair I think it is going to leak no matter what you put on the threads.

[County98]

Still haven't finished bending the fuel feed line, but had a couple hours to kill, so bolted up Clark's header kit.

Not rocket science, but I really couldn't find any good pics of what to expect, so here you go.

Painted last week. They come bare metal with a can of paint (Cali thing I guess). I didn't use it anyway and went and got 2 cans of VHT Flameproof primer and 2 cans of Flameproof header black.

Hit with some sandpaper down to bare metal, hit with brake cleaner, and wiped down with tack cloth. Let dry completely.

3 coats of primer

3 coats black

Heat paint needs to cure, and I don't have an old stove in the shop yet. Finish scratches super easy until I can get it cured on the car with some heat cycles.

[County98]

Here's what comes with it. Template for cutting shrouds (which I'm leaving off for now, so skipped that), packings, baffles, collector gaskets, and hardware.

140 packings are dual beveled.

Friction fit barely on exhaust tubes, into the exhaust tube "dishes".

Headers seem pretty good, but I don't think I'm going to be a fan of the glass packs. And that's all they are, hollow all the way through. The small tan disk at the bottom is the wood top of my workbench. Went ahead a dropped in the supplied baffles.

Bolt up next, with an issue...........

[County98]

Headers clamped up fairly well, won't know about leaks until I get her fired up though. Little finicky, would be easier with an extra set of hands.

Centered tubes and slowly tightened all 3 retainers up in stages. 20ftlb, then 25, and left them all at 35ftlbs.

Come with castle nuts, no washers.

Mufflers are self explanatory, 3 bolts on the flanges. Only strange thing to me was also a lack of washers here, and they are not self retaining nuts. I bolted them up to 35ftlb also, as is.

One thing I remember from headers as a kid, is that tighter isn't better on collector flanges. Just want them to seal without bending them too badly.

Okay, on to my issue. Maybe I'm just missing something obvious hopefully. Both sides, muffler tips are touching the body. Tight against the body. I was expecting 1/2" of clearance on this and I have none. Clark's instructions say you can reposition slightly, but I don't see how. Bolts in holes and tighten up.

Advice?

[2LZ]

Watching this closely. My exhaust options are still up in the air.