EM Removing Front Springs

[Wittsend]

The manual states to elevate the front of the car, remove the shock (put a rod or chain in to prevent the spring launching), place a jack on the lower arm near the inner pivot bolt (Blue Arrow). Remove bolt (Red Arrow), slowly lower arm until the spring is free of energy and remove.

I'm just checking that I have the procedure correct (per the manual) OR..., there is a better method learned over the years. I have removed springs before (on other cars) but I know things can be different depending upon the car.

[Frank DuVal]

I remove the shock absorber and use a length of 1/2"-13 threaded rod in the shock position to compress the spring. Yes, you need some stout lower plate, I use a 1/2" aluminum flat plate I had. I like this wwaayyy better than any spring compressors, and I used several different types over the years. Always an a$$ puckering time just waiting for the spring compressors to slide around on the spring.

With the 1/2-13 rod, you can even do it with the suspension laying on the ground! There is no weight of vehicle to compress the spring requirement.

Note, do not remove or disconnect anything until the shock is out and the threaded rod is in place and pre-loaded.

And, I learned this threaded rod method from READING CORVAIR FORUMS! That's why we are here, to learn and teach!

[joelsplace]

If you have a spring compressor the way to align them is perpendicular to the wire and not parallel to the coil. They don't slide on the spring then. Those type don't really work on the front anyway. One mistake people make is trying to remove the coil with the subframe out of the car. You lose the weight of the car helping you in that situation. I haven't used the all thread approach but it sounds great.

[Frank DuVal]

If you have a spring compressor the way to align them is perpendicular to the wire and not parallel to the coil.

Oh trust me, I've tried all the ways! You are right, perpendicular to wire is correct placement. Even the little U bolts with wing nuts won't hold them when they want to move. Always chain just in case! Of course I worked on lots of front ends and McPherson struts in the day.

[jmiahman]

I haven't used the all thread approach but it sounds great.

Would this be a good example?

[Frank DuVal]

YES!

[joelsplace]

I've never had them jump off after I figured out how to orient them. They are pretty dangerous for sure.

[Wittsend]

I ventured to this task today. I used the method in the manual where the inner/lower arm is unbolted to free the spring. I have three different spring compressors and an assortment of other "things" I have used for spring removal on other cars. Regardless the only thing that worked was to use my internal compressor in a modified fashion. I had to use the free sliding section with hooks on the lower side of the spring and the threaded section (less hooks) above the shock hole.

I got the spring compressed enough and with a floor jack beneath and the inner/lower arm bolt removed, - lowered the spring compressor..., lowered the jack, back and forth numerous times to "walk" the spring down. That was not too difficult. My purpose was to lower the car by cutting one coil off the spring.

The greater problem was getting the spring re-installed even though it was shorter. In the image below I drew yellow lines to represent the angle of the lower area of the spring. The spring needs to arc and is not straight at full droop. The red line is through the shock mounting points that center on the spring (when it is compressed enough to be parallel to the shock). The orange circle is the bolt mentioned.

How I used my compressor for all intent and purpose is like using All-Thread. This pulled the spring to follow the red line and forced the lower section of the spring towards the brake drum away from its lower perch. It was extremely difficult to finagle the spring in. Tightening the compressor pushed the spring further out towards the brake drum. Elevating the inner area of the lower arm (to align and push the bolt through) would also move the arm outward, away from the bolt hole.

At one time I had three floor jacks going. My best results were using the spring compressor with only two hooks opposed to each other top and bottom (good thing the Corvair springs are pretty light). And just like the spring came out..., I had to "walk" it back in. A little compressor..., a little floor jack - back and forth.

It is all in and done - now. Must have spent at least 6+ hours. 65% of the time on the first spring and 35% on the second. Quite scary at times. I am in no way endorsing how I did it. Everyone needs to do it the way they feel safe at their own risk. I just find the All-Thread questionable because of how it forces the spring straight (towards the brake drum) when it needs to arc. One last comment, recently there was a discussion about cutting springs and I asked about partial turn cuts. I would not advise it as the spring would not "catch" in the perch stop, but rather span over them. It seems full turns are the way to go.

[Frank DuVal]

Try it again with the All Thread, way easier, even with the must make an arc issue! OK, don't try it again on this car, job already done. Ha! As I said, I tried many compressors and different ways to use them then read and saw pictures on CCF of using All Thread. WoW!

[Wittsend]

Sooo..., what is it about the All-Thread that is different than how I used my spring Compressor?

1. The All-Thread passes through the shock hole to a nut. I passed the thread portion of the compressor through the same hole to the threaded block (hooks removed) that is the equivalent of a nut.

2. Something has to capture the spring near the bottom. Not sure what those who use All-Thread uses, maybe a steel plate with a hole in it? I used the hooks on the 'slip through' portion of my compressor. In either case something is grabbing the spring and pulling it upward centered on the shock bolt hole.

It seems to me both methods are capturing the spring and pulling the bottom upward in a like fashion. Thus the things that come to mind that might be different are:

A. Does the All-Thread bend as the spring does?

B. Are the people who have success with All-Thread releasing the lower arm at the lower Ball Joint (circled "Y") as opposed to the method in the Manual where I released the inner pivot bolt (circled "X")?

In retrospect it (now) seems more logical to have released the lower ball joint. That way the lower arm isn't (for lack of a better term) "floating" being anchored on the inner pivot bolt and the reconnect has some "wiggle" room at the ball joint.

[tony66]

The Allthread method keeps the spring and lower control arm "together". During re-installation, you seat the spring to the lower arm with virtually no compression on the spring, so it's a lot easier tighten the allthread and make minor adjustments as you go. Hardly any finagling of the spring and arm separately. I use the all thread whenever I can on any car because it is so much easier and it also captures the spring in case the spring were to jump. Some cars work without disconnecting the inner pivot, some don't. You can usually figure that out during disassembly. The other benefit with all thread is you are wrenching from above, versus underneath. If the tool were to fail, I'd rather my body parts not be under the control arm.

[erco]

Compare and contrast the Corvair's independent front & rear suspension to that of the Cybertruck. Each wheel/tire weighs 88 lbs at 50 PSI. What a monstrosity.

Well-done video though.

[Frank DuVal]

Not much different with your use one compressor through the shock hole. Did the lower clamp have enough width so if it slipped sideways it would still be inside the spring?

A. The all thread does not bend. The spring does.

B. I always disconnect at the lower ball joint on most cars. Who needs a shop manual. Ha!

I use a 1/2" aluminum plate wider than the control arm below the lower control arm on Corvairs.


Rear springs on late models does not need all thread or spring compressor.

[Dennis66]

While I never did a Corvair front spring yet, I always did the ball joint end. I thought it strange to do the inside, but when I looked at he diagrams, I realized Corvairs have the strut rod, while the others I have done had "A frame" type lowers. I guess one could unbolt the strut rod from the control arm. Dennis

[KenHenry]

I separate at the ball joint and use all thread without any troubles. I also have 1/2 aluminum plate scrap like Frank. Disassembling, you can slightly back off the ball joint nut after removing the shock. Make sure you still have full thread engagement. The force from the still captive spring will help separate the ball joint when go to work at it with a pickle fork. I think you can also back up the joint with a hammer and smack it with a second one… I do tend to need help from a spring compressor to install rears on my LM. Ken

[Frank DuVal]

I hardly ever get the pickle fork out of the tool box. I use the two hammer method, like popping a zit I say, and people get nauseated.... But, it IS the method shown in the shop manual! I use it on all tapered joints on vehicles. I really like it when I can swing both hammers and hit at the same time. Even rusty eastern joints come apart quick. If not, then one hammer braced against the joint and swing the other. And no small 8 or 16 ounce hammers, please, get out the 32 oz and up. I have a small sledge with a 6" handle as a great back up. Why do this method? NO damage to the rubber seals. That's why it is in the shop manual. Many times you are separating the joint and not replacing the joint. Like in this thread, just separate the ball joint and reassemble. No need to buy new rubber parts.