Building a modded FI 140 for my Wagon

[fred bagnall]

That was a good catch on the rear accessory housing. I figured the same thing out about 30 years ago when I assembled my first Corvair engine and was installing an aftermarket camshaft from Clark's . I was using an early housing because that is all that I had. I borrowed a Dremel and an appropriate bit to open up the same area. Great work on your engine. I have been watching your builds with much anticipation. Very thorough and meticulous attention to detail.

[toms73novass]

Thanks Fred,

I'm glad I'm not the only one.

It did catch me by surprise. Stock cams must have a smaller end than the aftermarket ones made for LM's.

[toms73novass]

Well, while I wait for gaskets, I resurfaced the pressure plate and balanced the assembly.
Wish I had a dynamic balancer, but this has worked well in the past.

The flywheel is going to be an aluminum flywheel with a steel friction surface 6lb. It should help the OTTO20 rev quickly!

I like to balance the individual components instead of the whole assembly, incase I need to change something in the future.

[MtnVairMike]

Well, while I wait for gaskets, I resurfaced the pressure plate and balanced the assembly.
Wish I had a dynamic balancer, but this has worked well in the past.

The flywheel is going to be an aluminum flywheel with a steel friction surface 6lb. It should help the OTTO20 rev quickly!

I like to balance the individual components instead of the whole assembly, incase I need to change something in the future.

Tom,

Very neat balancing trick. Could you give me a few sentences on how you do that. I could use the help.
Thanks in advance

Mike

[toms73novass]

Mike, the basic fixture is a stand where the wood notches are the same height.
On those sits a bearing that I remove the inner seal and cleaned out all the grease and put in wd-40 so they spin real easily.

There is a rod that is the same size as the bearing inner race that goes from side to side.

In the middle basically are just adapter pieces that slip on the rod and are held to the rod by a set screw. (You would need a lathe to make them or a 3d printer)

I will post another picture with a flywheel on it. The part on it now snuggly fits the center of the pressure plate and holds it while balancing.

As for how I balance, just put on fixture and the heavy side will drop. I usually take a magnet and put it on the other side to get an idea of how much material I need to remove. If the magnet is close to slowing the heavy side from dropping I drill a hole in the heavy side just smaller than the magnet and work my way up. What you are looking for is no repeatable stopping point with several tries, also it will just come to a stop it will not back pedal.

On this I drilled one hole about 3/8" then had to add two smaller 1/8 holes a little counter clockwise to get it as best as I can. Just make sure you are not near an edge that would cause a weak spot.

[MtnVairMike]

Thanks much Tom!

I may reach out again when I get to that stage on my car in a few weeks.

Mike

[toms73novass]

Little tip I picked up from Davemotohead's videos.

Use a few pieces of all thread or long bolts and feed through fan bearing before removing. Have them just touch the top cover (mine came in at exactly 1" sticking out below the flange). Heat cover to remove bearing, thread bolts in new bearing (or in my case I was reusing bearing). Heat top cover and slip bearing in till hit touches bolts. Easy peasy!

I also added set screw to top housing as an additional safety measure to make sure that the bearing does not creep up and potentially damage my Nash Fan!!

[toms73novass]

One more: I think I'll need to remove oil filler when I put in car? Any one with a wagon know?

[toms73novass]

Mike here are some more pics of the mount with out the pressure plate adapter in place. The adapter bolts to where the flywheel would mount.

Also the combo (minus clutch friction) for final balancing. Sometimes you get lucky and can "clock" the pressure plate and flywheel to get balance or close and then adjust a minor amount for final assembly balance.

The center hub is turned to fit the bore of the flywheel, a plate to bolt the flywheel to is bolted to the hub and the whole thing sits on the shaft.

[swi66]

That looks like an old Snap On wheel balancer I used to have.
Never thought to use it for anything like that.

Gary Swiatowy

[toms73novass]

That looks like an old Snap On wheel balancer I used to have.
Never thought to use it for anything like that.

Gary Swiatowy

How about that I "did" reinvent the wheel (balancer)

Actually I'm sure I saw something similar and made it, can't remember where.

[fred bagnall]

I thought that I had seen something similar in Richard Finche's "How to Keep Your Corvair Alive ". It was in one of the later editions with the picture of his wife on it. I tried to find it in my Corvair book collection, but I couldn't put my hands on it. Great work as usual Tom. :

[toms73novass]

Had an extra alternator front and fan housing, picked up a 10si and disassembled to paint so both halfs match the turkey roaster.

[toms73novass]

I have been wanting to get a set of the Kostich manifolds for my engine build, however, he passed away a few years ago. Davemotohead has been looking into having them reproduced but that has not materialized yet and I need them now.

So I made a some. They should provide an nice flow increase and I will make a mating big single exhaust. I still have to add the vbands and ceramic coat.

They also fit under the lower tins with a bit of trimming where the tube exits.

These also have 54% more volume than the stock 140 manifolds.

[joelsplace]

Those look nice!
Someone needs to sell them.

[toms73novass]

Those look nice!
Someone needs to sell them.

Dave said he may have found someone, along with a full large exhaust.

They take a TON of time to make, at least they did for me. Particularly figuring out special fixtures and jigs to keep the bottom of the pipe round and the exit round while pressing the pipe flat.