1965 Corsa Coupe

[kmart356]

Looks good!

. I guess this was the easy trick to turn it into a 110???

More like a 140(-)
The big valve heads flow 50% more than the 110 heads.

[66vairguy]

Looks good!

Thanks! One other thing I forgot to mention is that BOTH secondary carbs had the floats adjusted down to zero and the needles were completely closed off. Once I replaced the needles and seats, it took a lot of tab bending to get then back into Bob Helt's specs in his book. I guess this was the easy trick to turn it into a 110???

I've noticed over the years different needle/seat heights at the float tab during rebuilds. Not as exaggerated as your "closed shut", but it takes a careful eye to make sure the tab is bent to work the needle smoothly or you end up with occasional flooding problems.

[joelsplace]

That's why most kits come with multiple or different thickness needle seat gaskets. You use them to adjust so the float level is correct and the tab hits the tip of the needle perpendicular.

[2LZ]

Productive day. One of the things I was concerned about was when we picked the car up, gas was running out of the rear. One of the carbs overflowed from someone trying to fire it. At home, we found cylinder #3 was filled with fuel and squirted out the plug hole, just turning by hand. One of the reasons I just didn't want to drain, refill and fire.
I drained the oil and let it drizzle for a while, but once I started to pull the pan, gas came running out of the corner. Glad I pulled it.

So far, everything looks really good. There was some sludge in the pan but I've seen far worse in other cars. Lemme know if this is bad "for a Corvair" please. No real metal or anything. Just a thin layer of gook I scraped out. The block and crank area look very clean. After rolling the engine over by hand opened up, rods are snug and have no odd movement in any position. I didn't see any reason to mic or feeler gauge. Nothing even close to alarming.

Much to my surprise (of course, I bought the parts already), none of the push rod o-rings are leaking. I think I'll just pull the valve covers, check adjustment, and sludge factor, then reseal and call it good. Guru Advice????

The secondary main jets came in yesterday, so I finished all the carbs. Got out Bob's book and set all four up to his spec. Again, some tab bending was involved but it was super nice to have the tech info readily at hand. Great book. Hopefully no problems there upon firing day.

[2LZ]

Also discovered that the exhaust has been replaced (I'm sure at least once) and whoever welded it all together nust have been up for a few days. I've decided to replace it all from the exhaust logs back, including new U-pipes, donuts, hangers, and clamp it all together. Time to click on Clark's again....

[gbullman]

That pan looks about like mine did when I pulled it off at 70K miles and little mileage for the previous 30 some years. You’ll notice the drain hole isn’t at the bottom of the pan so not surprising sludge collects there.

[2LZ]

Got the pan done today. Had a nice "punt" that needed to be flattened from the drain plug nailing something. Got it and the bolt holes flat. I have the Clark's rail and new bolts coming. I really don't want this thing to leak.
The rust wasn't bad on the outside of the pan. Got the outside of the pan striped and painted. Needed to keep the rust pits from advancing.

[2LZ]

One piece at a time.........

[joelsplace]

On your leaky o-ring question:
I bought a Spyder that had been sitting for decades with no leaks. Once I fired it up and it got hot there were leaks everywhere. I think after sitting long enough the external oil dries up.

[2LZ]

On your leaky o-ring question:
I bought a Spyder that had been sitting for decades with no leaks. Once I fired it up and it got hot there were leaks everywhere. I think after sitting long enough the external oil dries up.

Good point. I'm already in there and have the parts. The car show isn't until July. No hurry. I keep telling myself "Ok....you can stop digging now.".....then....then....

[2LZ]

Dropped the exhaust today. Fell right off with some PB Blaster soaking.

I see removing the old rotted hangers is going to be a chore. I've read the right side actually mounts to the coil stud behind the sheet metal?????? Haven't given the driver side a good look yet. This is really starting to look like some generic mounts or plumbers tape me be in order for the new Dynamax setup.

[caraholic4life]

Dropped the exhaust today. Fell right off with some PB Blaster soaking.

I see removing the old rotted hangers is going to be a chore. I've read the right side actually mounts to the coil stud behind the sheet metal?????? Haven't given the driver side a good look yet. This is really starting to look like some generic mounts or plumbers tape me be in order for the new Dynamax setup.

Sometimes those that installed replacement hangers would cut a slot in the bracket so removing everything would not be needed the next time the bracket needed replaced....It's a small chance but worth trying to simply loosen the nut on the stud and see if the bracket happens to slid out......

[joelsplace]

I remove the stud instead of taking the sheet metal apart.

[2LZ]

I remove the stud instead of taking the sheet metal apart.

That's what I ended up doing on the passenger side today. The driver side is still hanging in the balance, till tomorrow. The bolts are soaking.
I've loved everything about wrenching on this Corvair, so far......but these muffler hanger are seriously overkill for the length and weight of the system. Since I'll be doing an entire new setup, with shorter muffler with different mounts, I may just cut the old rubber hunk and leave the driver side mount, up top. I don't want to take a chance on snapping an old bolt head off in the head. We'll see tomorrow.

[Dennis66]

I seem to recall that with dual exhaust, the stock hanger system was inadequate. You have the hanger bracket at the rear of the muffler, and only the manifold clamp for the front. With the single, you have two manifold clamps and the leverage of the cross pipe. It's been a long time, but I do seem to recall having to tighten the duals on my old '62 coupe. Dennis

[2LZ]

I seem to recall that with dual exhaust, the stock hanger system was inadequate. You have the hanger bracket at the rear of the muffler, and only the manifold clamp for the front. With the single, you have two manifold clamps and the leverage of the cross pipe. It's been a long time, but I do seem to recall having to tighten the duals on my old '62 coupe. Dennis

The passenger side had one hanger on the muffler and the mount at the J-pipe. The driver side had a pair of straps on the muffler. I'm so used to "car length" exhaust, it was just odd to me what huge plates the Corvair uses, held down by multiple big bolts in hidden places. Since the exhaust swings from the moving engine and is supposed to move, one would think some simple hooks with rubber donuts would suffice.

Well, deeper, deeper, deeper I dive since I'm in there. I decided since I'll be doing all the push rod o-rings and need to un-torque the heads in the process, once I get all that cleaned up and replaced, and the heads re-torqued, I may as well to the intake stem seals. Already have the tool and the seals are cheap. I'm replacing all the other "1965 rubber parts", why not, right?