1965 Corsa Coupe

[RexJohnson]

The rubber in the dual exhaust hangers is reason you to have to keep retightening the manifolds. The rubber allows the mufflers to rotate by twisting the rubber so the manifolds are always loosening up. I have metal squares in place of the rubber blocks and the tailpipes stay where you put them and the manifolds rarely need retightening.

[Dennis66]

Pushrod seals DON'T require untorquing the heads. You do one cylinder at a time and only remove (loosen) the lower bolts. Dennis

[2LZ]

Pushrod seals DON'T require untorquing the heads. You do one cylinder at a time and only remove (loosen) the lower bolts. Dennis

Thanks for that. I've seen both on You Tube. Some guys insist on loosening and re-torquing all the nuts/bolts in factory order. I'd rather not if it's not necessary.

[Dennis66]

The less one disturbs, the better. If I had to remove a head or loosen all the head bolts, I would want to minimum remove the head gaskets and give them the heat treatment. I've done that before, but with the relatively inexpensive and available replacements, I just go new. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Pushrod seals DON'T require untorquing the heads. You do one cylinder at a time and only remove (loosen) the lower bolts. Dennis

Thanks for that. I've seen both on You Tube. Some guys insist on loosening and re-torquing all the nuts/bolts in factory order. I'd rather not if it's not necessary.

I agree with Dennis. Once the head gaskets are compressed never loosen ALL the head bolts or you should replace the head gaskets.

Of course you may want "check" all of them, but BEWARE -- if one turns due to pulled threads it WILL ruin your whole day!! The upper studs are notorious for the nuts rusting on the studs so I don't touch them unless necessary.

Considering all the plus and minuses --- the best approach is removing only the two rocker/head studs to get the pushrod guide plate off and pull the pushrod tubes. DO replace the "O" rings on the rocker/head stud and re-install then do the next two.

After years of waffling by GM and mechanics -- The agreed safe head torque value is 30 ft. lbs.

The other issue is folks don't seat the pushrod tube all the way in (use a socket that fits inside) to the block and when they tighten down the rocker/head studs the retaining plate BENDS the edges of the pushrod tube and they WILL leak!

[2LZ]

All great info, guys. Thanks. I've not had experience with the metal ring-type head gaskets other than certain motorcycles I've rebuilt. I know on regular head gaskets, once loosened, always replace. That's the problem with You Tube. There is lots of great info out there for newby's, but there is also a lot of "not so good" info out there. It's why I bring these questions to you guys. The experience.

Well, I discovered why the push rod tubes weren't leaking. I pulled the first tube from the #1 cylinder and someone had already replaced all three rings with Viton rings. I'm still going to clean the sockets and change them all because I have them, and I'm in there. I'll hang onto the good, old ones. I see Davemotohead mentioned that. I guess these things last a long time.

I'm also replacing all the 1965 lifters while I'm there, and inspecting the cam lobes for odd wear patterns.
Of course, the first lifter refuses to come all the way out of the bore. Everything has gone well on this project. I guess an occasional curve ball is to be expected.

[66vairguy]

The original Corvair head gaskets are steel that compress. They are still made. Some like the aftermarket copper gaskets. I've heard pluses and minuses for each. One thing about the copper gaskets is you can get them in different thicknesses to compensate for head machining. You should not re-use the steel gaskets. Some say you can re-use the copper gaskets if you anneal them.

Usually "O" ring gaskets should be replaced if disturbed, even if they look good. The exception is if they were only in place a brief time.

A stuck lifter is usually due to varnish build up. Rarely one will be "mushroomed" due to different factors, usually due to failed, unchanged oil.

Considering some of the questionable parts made now, if the lifter bottoms are not worn I'd just reuse them. Of course once out if you mix them up you should not re-use worn lifters. Just me ----

[2LZ]

Of course once out if you mix them up you should not re-use worn lifters. Just me ----

Doing them one cylinder at a time so no mix up can occur. I'll be systematically rotating the engine in thirds, checking the cam lobes for proper orientation since I can currently see everything inside, and following the firing order around the engine. That way I can replace things and set the cold adjustments as I go along (1/2 turn). Still waiting on the stem seals so no hurry.

[2LZ]

Sheesh..... #1 cylinder is done. New intake stem seal, lifters, Viton o rings, set at 1/2 turn. Between waiting on parts and fighting getting the old lifters out (of course, the new lifter extractor tool doesn't grab the stock lifters), this is going to be a process.....but worth it in the end.

[toms73novass]

If i remember correctly, I used a straight pick that had a small bend on the tip. tilted one way I was able to get through the center oil hole and then tilt the other to pull on lifter. Used a sort of in out action to break the baked on oil off the lifter as it came out.

[fred bagnall]

I have a small dental pick that I picked up along the way. It works very similar to what Tom is talking about. A little side to side motion an some back and forth usually does the trick. Keep up the good work. I am enjoying the updates

[2LZ]

Hey gang. After fighting with my second set of lifters, I finally quit messing around and made a tool from one of Mrs. 2LZ garden stakes. The lifters aren't mushroomed or super dirty, but it just take a tiny bit if buildup because they're so slick and hard to grab. I use a magnet to get them out as far as they will on their own, then lightly tap them out from the inside. They pop right out.

Now to my latest quandary : While removing the rocker bolts from the studs to access the little o rings, one of the studs un-threaded (cleanly) from the case instead of the rocker nut coming loose. No panic involved. It all looked super clean. Problem is, I can only get it threaded in so far (about four threads shy of bottomed) and of course, it's flush with the head when in all the way, so a double-nut technique is out of the question. I can't see anywhere to grab the stud shaft. I thought about a 3/8 course just to get it bottomed, but i don't want to risk buggering up the starter threads on the stud. What's the best trick to reseating these with the heads on? Advice???

[Vairone]

While removing the rocker bolts from the studs to access the little o rings, one of the studs un-threaded (cleanly) from the case instead of the rocker nut coming loose. No panic involved. It all looked super clean. Problem is, I can only get it threaded in so far (about four threads shy of bottomed) and of course, it's flush with the head when in all the way, so a double-nut technique is out of the question. I can't see anywhere to grab the stud shaft. I thought about a 3/8 course just to get it bottomed, but i don't want to risk buggering up the starter threads on the stud. What's the best trick to reseating these with the heads on?

Clean the stud and the case threads with Brakeleen or similar. Apply a drop or two of Loctite 271 or 609 to the end of the stud and a some into the case threads. Drop a steel ball in the rocker stud and use the rocker stud to install the stud in the case. Figure out some way to measure the installed length of the stud so you do not drive it too far into the case. Let Loctite set up for the recommend time before putting the stud in use.

[2LZ]

Thank you. Perfect. I'm hoping I don't run into more of these as I work my way through the firing order.