Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

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bbodie52
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

I am certainly not endorsing or trying to encourage switching from a perfectly good (and proven to be reliable) Delco-Remy ignition coil in a Corvair to some other brand of "high performance" ignition coil — and certainly not promoting a fiction of improved horsepower based on a "more powerful" spark plug output! I have often tried to encourage switching to a breakerless electronic ignition system, such as the Pertronix Ignitor or FAST XR700 to eliminate the ignition points and condenser. The intent there is to upgrade to a more-stable and reliable ignition system in the distributor — especially in Corvairs that are frequently driven and considered to be something of "daily drivers". The goal is to provide the engine with improved stability and reliable performance, which can be lacking in the original ignition points-based system.

The trouble comes from owners who want to switch to an improved ignition system in their Corvairs, but then fail to do their homework or ask questions about such an upgrade BEFORE MAKING A PURCHASE! Newly-minted Corvair owners also sometimes inherit a Corvair that has an ignition system in it that was poorly selected or improperly configured and installed. Failing to completely read and understand the manufacturer's installation instructions often causes problems. For example, bypassing the ballast resistor wire when installing a FAST XR700 system can cause both the XR700 electronics unit and the original Delco coil to overheat. The XR700 was engineered to take into account the presence of a ballast resistor in the Primary host vehicle wiring harness. The XR700 was designed to operate on voltage that is lower than the base 12.5 VDC battery coupled to a charging system that normally has most of the Corvair electrical system "seeing" 12-14 VDC. The presence of a ballast resistor or resistor wire in the Primary wiring often confuses the installer. The Crane Cams/FAST XR700 system electronics module was engineered to be powered by a voltage that has been reduced by a ballast resistor circuit. In fact, it will overheat and will often malfunction if it is powered by a system that has had the ballast resistor removed or bypassed. Unfortunately, the instructions for the FAST XR700 and the FAST XR3000 were combined — yet the two systems are only similar in that they share an optical triggering system — they are very different in their voltage requirements and in the type of ignition coil they can support. The XR700 REQUIRES voltage that has been reduced by a ballast resistor-based voltage divider system, but the XR3000 requires the ballast resistor wire to be bypassed so that i is powered by full battery voltage plus the charging system that elevates the voltage to an even higher level! The FAST technical writers produced a complicated 20-page installation manual that attempts to cover both the XR700 AND THE XR3000 in a wide variety of vehicle types. This results in a manual that is often filled with exceptions and confusing choices. This is depicted in the diagram below...

FAST XR700 and XR300 Installation Diagram
FAST XR700 and XR300 Installation Diagram
The diagram shows BOTH a ballast resistor bypass (for the XR3000), and an exception when it should not be bypassed (for the XR700). In the diagram, the XR700 and XR3000 appear to be the same unit. Both are connected to a "coil", yet the XR700 can only support a standard 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm coil, while the XR3000 can also support a high performance 0.6 ohm coil (which could cause an XR700 module to malfunction)! Depending on the actual coil selected, the generic "COIL" is not really defined in the diagram. Some cols need a ballast resistor, and some aftermarket cols want the resistor to be bypassed. This makes the above drawing even more confusing!

The Pertronix hardware options and instruction manuals are often criticized and said to be confusing to the installer, but the Crane Cams/FAST manual can also be said to be confusing and filled with exceptions and caveats (warnings of specific stipulations, conditions, or limitations).

Choosing and installing either the FAST or Pertronix systems, or other ignition system upgrades currently on the market, can produce a good outcome for the car owner. The hardware is often well-designed, but almost always requires a carefully-researched series of hardware choices and vehicle installation modifications to "upgrade" the vehicle's ignition system. The outcome often is incorrectly done, or is confusing to the owner or mechanic who is attempting the ignition system changes.

Is it any wonder that there is so much debate and confusion, and often excess funds expended in trying to modernize and improve the classic Corvairs! The outcome can be good, but it does require carefully selected hardware choices and often electrical system modifications to make the outcome a positive one!

Do you want confusing??? Try to study the Pertronix canister-type ignition coil charts below! The Primary resistance values range from 0.32 ohms, 0.6 ohms, 1.5 ohms, to 3.0 Ohms. With all of these different options, the maximum output to the spark plug is either 40,000 volts, or 45,000 volts. There are other non-canister coils that hit 60,000 VOLTS!! Would one of those coils make your Corvair go faster to pick up some ice cream bars at the grocery store (and then get them home before they melt)?? :tongue:
:whoa: :helpsos: :fingerscrossed: :confused:
Pertronix Ignition Coil Options Charts
Pertronix Ignition Coil Options Charts

Perhaps the best solution for a solid Corvair ignition system upgrade is contained in this statement...
terribleted wrote:...I love my Crane ignitions. I have only ever seen one that had failed. Something I can not say about the Pertronix units where failure is somewhat common from what I have seen.

Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up. Full time restoration tech and mechanic. https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration
Or would you rather have some more discussion about voltage divider issues!

Any Corvair owner who is considering elimination of the points and condenser and installing a breakerless system should voice their plans here on the Corvair Forum. Questions and answers first... followed by an appropriate purchase... followed by a good instructions manual review and clarification. A proper installation should create a good outcome without all of the hazards that need to be avoided. :pray:
Attachments
Pertronix Coil Catalog.pdf
Pertronix Coil Catalog
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Richard »

Have you ever actually reread your posts?

The seven paragraphs above could be condensed down to. "Everyone is confused except me".
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

:goodpost:

It comes from many years of being right! :rolling:

I also try to confirm any comments or suggestions I make by linking them to other references on the Internet, manufacturer's instructions or comments, etc.
davemotohead wrote: » Sat Nov 18, 2023 3:00 pm

The original instructions that came with the pert 1 units tells you to simply wire it right to the stock coil like mine is, later they changed the instructions when the pert 2 unit came out.
I don't have a copy of the "original instructions", so I try to stick with the most-current version. I also found this reference...
Pertronix  (Australia) Logo.jpg
Pertronix (Australia) Logo.jpg (116.01 KiB) Viewed 768 times
PERTRONIX IGNITOR AND COIL INSTALLATION TROUBLESHOOTING

WHAT APPLICATIONS ARE COVERED WITH THE PERTRONIX FLAME-THROWER COILS?
Our Flame-Thrower coils are designed specifically for compatibility with our Ignitor 1, 2 and 3 units. However, the Flame-Thrower 1 Coil may also be used with a point type system or any other system that calls for a 1.5 or 3.0-ohm coil.

MY VEHICLE IS MISFIRING OR BREAKING DOWN UNDER LOAD. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
This problem is NEARLY ALWAYS associated with low voltage at the unit, preventing the unit from operating correctly. The unit is actually turning off, and back on as the coil charges and releases energy. The best possible remedy for this problem is to wire the Ignitor unit's RED WIRE directly to a switched 12-volt source away from any voltage reduced circuit, such as a resistor wire or ballast resistor. These circuits usually are in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The Ignitor™ lead (red wire) can go directly to the ignition switch or any other "switched" source on the fuse panel. The coil will still need a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance, either internally such as the Flame-Thrower or in the form of a resistor wire or ballast resistor. We think you will find when you have these "breaking up" problems, low voltage is the culprit!
We also highly recommend seeking a qualified auto-electrician to make this adjustment for you.
For more information on how to Test Voltage and Resistance, see this info sheet...
Pertronix  (Australia) Power & Ground Tests.jpg

WHAT TYPE OF COIL CAN I USE WITH THE IGNITOR? HOW DO I CHECK MY COIL'S RESISTANCE? (12V NEGATIVE GROUND ONLY)
To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.

Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts.

The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle.

Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.

Now the maximum system amperage can be determined. Divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.

Four and six cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.

Example:
Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage is 8

Voltage 12
Resistance 3.0
12 / 3.0 = 4
Total amperage is 4


:link: http://www.pertronix.com.au/troubleshooting.html#ts11
Attachments
Pertronix Power-Ground-Voltage Testing.pdf
Pertronix Power-Ground-Voltage Testing
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by davemotohead »

Well my many many years of experience and many many logged miles with a pert unit in various cars and FC's tell me that wiring them right to the stock coil is the way to go as I have never had one burn out, AND I have replaced many burnt out units wired directly to 12V and changed them over to directly hooked to the coil with the resistor wire in place and and they never burn out again, the pert 2 unit IMO are not worth using as the failure rate for those are off the charts, leaving the key on does burn them out because I have seen it more than once. This is a "Book Smarts" - "Street Smarts" issue. I will continue to do it the way I am because I know it works! :rafman:

Even the mustang forum agrees with me, and you know those Mustang guys is smarts! :neener:

johnpro
25083 posts · Joined 2000

#9 · Jun 26, 2005
"The pertronix unit needs a 12 volt power source."
That is COMPLETELY false. If you do a search here, you will see that MANY of us have been running Pertronix Ignitors for years via the resistor wire.

Pertronix used to say to hook it up via the ballast resistor or resistor wire if you're car was equipped with one (that's what my instructions say). About 5 years ago, they changed the instructions because a very tiny percentage of cars had such low coil voltage that it was a wonder they were running with points. By switching the instructions to say hook it to a 12v source, it made that tiny percentage of people fix their low voltage problem when hooking up the Ignitor.

The Ignitor is either on or off, there's no in-between, and it will be on with about 7v.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

red1970mustang
695 posts · Joined 2004

#7 · Jun 26, 2005
My Pertronix ign. unit has been working for 8 years about 60,000 miles and I did not bypass the resistor wire. I do not use their coil.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
GTxpress
201 posts · Joined 2012

#17 · Nov 6, 2015
red1970mustang said:
my pertronix ign. Unit has been working for 8 years about 60,000 miles and i did not bypass the resistor wire. I do not use their coil.
ditto!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also the mustang guys say the pert 2 units won't let their V-8's with automatic transmissions idle correctly, same issue we have with them in our 6 cylinders.
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

Image
AS YOU CAN SEE FROM THE JULY 2005 COMMENT BELOW, THIS DEBATE ABOUT VOLTAGE REQUIREMENTS NECESSARY FOR THE PERTRONIX IGNITOR HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR DECADES! It is also not unique to Corvair owners, or even General Motors owners. Even Ford Mustang owners argue over this!

Image

:link: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads ... ii.489124/
johnpro wrote:25083 posts · Joined 2000

#7 · Jul 2, 2005
but needs a full 12 volts so get rid of the resistor wire and use their blaster coil with it.
I guess some one has to make that false statement around here at least once a week! :horror: I'd love to see a post stuck at the top of this forum that says A PERTRONIX IGNITOR DOES NOT NEED 12 VOLTS.

The old Ignitor instructions used to say if you have a resistor wire or ballast resistor leave it hooked up. There was a very tiny percentage of people that have such low voltage at the coil that it's a wonder their cars ran on points. Pertronix changed their instructions about 4 years ago, saying to hook it to a 12v source, to stop the tech calls from these people with poor wiring.

The Ignitor is on or off, no in between, and is on with ~7v. MANY of us have run the Pertronix Ignitor via the resistor wire, like the old instructions said to, for YEARS.
It is common for an electronic circuit to be designed with a specified voltage source requirement, as intended by the design engineers who developed it. HOWEVER... There is usually a tolerance range for acceptable operational voltage sources. If 12-VDC is the specified voltage for the power source, a range of something like 8-VDC to 16-VDC will usually work. Voltage that is too high, which can occur with an alternator output that is not properly regulated, can cause damage to electronic circuits, can burn out 12 V bulbs, etc. Voltage that dips too low may exceed the minimum acceptable threshold where electronic circuit errors or malfunctions may occur.

The Pertronix Ignitor circuitry is specified by the manufacturer for 12-VDC operation. The manual also states a RANGE of 8-VDC to 16-VDC should be acceptable.

If the alternator output is at the maximum of 16-VDC, the stock Corvair ballast resistor wire is 1.8 ohms, and a stock Delco-Remy coil Primary resistance is at 1.42 ohms, THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE COIL CALCULATES OUT AT 7.055900621118012 VOLTS. Given the same voltage divider resistances, but dropping the charging system output down to about 14-VDC, the voltage feeding the coil (and Pertronix Ignitor wired to the coil terminals) is now down to 6.173913043478261-VDC. Without the engine running, but with a fresh 12.5-VDC battery only, the voltage feeding the coil through the ballast resistor voltage divider is down to 5.512422360248448-VDC! Substituting a 3.0 ohm coil (as specified for the six-cylinder engine) calculates back up to 7.8125-VDC with battery-only voltage, or 8.75-VDC or higher with a typical charging system output in operation.

IF YOU DISABLE THE VOLTAGE DIVIDER NETWORK BY REMOVING THE BALLAST RESISTOR, FULL SYSTEM VOLTAGE WILL ALWAYS BE PRESENT AT THE COIL POSITIVE TERMINAL. A 3.0 ohm coil will keep coil heat buildup within acceptable parameters, and the Pertronix Ignitor will always be fed battery voltage or higher, which will make it happy! So why the desperate desire to protect and defend the precious ballast resistor??? WHAT (or where) IS THE POINTS? Since the breakerless electronic ignition eliminates the points, there really is no reason to retain the ballast resistor wire in the ignition circuit. If you have retained the 1.42 ohm Delco coil, the ballast resistor helps to protect that coil from excessive heat buildup, BUT THE COIL ONLY SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE BALLAST RESISTOR WIRE. The distributor configuration has now been reconfigured by Pertronix, and the design engineers have repeatedly stated that the power for the Pertronix Ignitor module should not be fed through the ballast resistor wire. If you change to a Pertronix (or alternate brand) 3.0 ohm coil, the coil Primary resistance will take over responsibility for internal heat management and control, so it would not need the external ballast resistor either! :tongue: ::-):

It is possible to wire things up to bypass the ballast resistor wire ONLY FOR THE POWER FEED TO THE PERTRONIX IGNITOR, WHILE RETAINING THE BALLAST RESISTOR WIRE, AND ITS ASSOCIATED STARTER SOLENOID "BOOSTER" CIRCUIT FOR THE ORIGINAL DELCO-REMY COIL ONLY. This is accomplished by wiring the Pertronix Ignitor directly to the wiring harness BEFORE the ballast resistor, which keeps the Pertronix Ignitor voltage up where it is supposed to be, but keeps the coil operating temperature low by reducing its power feed through the ballast resistor voltage divider.

Image

Vin is the system voltage (battery and charging system output)
R1 is the Corvair ballast resistor wire. (1.8Ω)
R2 is the ignition coil PRIMARY resistance. (1.28Ω-1.42Ω, 1.5Ω, or 3.0Ω)
Vout is the voltage going to the Pertronix Ignitor
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by joelsplace »

Dave has a lot of experience and so did Lon. I'm kind of a newbie since I've only been driving Corvairs since 1986 and only have 146 of them. Adding a Pertronix 1 is one of the first things I do on a new Corvair. I've always done them according to the original instructions and used the ballast wire. I also use the GM coil. Never had either fail.
Since you are big on how they were engineered and don't care about real world experience would you please explain why the original instructions said to use the resistance wire? Do you think the engineers redesigned the Pertronix 1 at the same time they changed the instructions? Also why do they come with the right length wires and ring terminals to connect directly to the coil?
I've also been told by other Corvair mechanics that all the burned out ones they have replaced have been wired to 12v. To be fair I have read about one mechanic that said he's fixed poorly running Pertronix 1 installations by switching them to 12v but that is only one.
If I ever have an issue with any of my Pertronix 1 cars I'll try switching it to 12v but so far no issues.
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

joelsplace wrote:...Since you are big on how they were engineered and don't care about real world experience would you please explain why the original instructions said to use the resistance wire? Do you think the engineers redesigned the Pertronix 1 at the same time they changed the instructions? Also why do they come with the right length wires and ring terminals to connect directly to the coil?

I've also been told by other Corvair mechanics that all the burned out ones they have replaced have been wired to 12v. To be fair I have read about one mechanic that said he's fixed poorly running Pertronix 1 installations by switching them to 12v but that is only one. If I ever have an issue with any of my Pertronix 1 cars I'll try switching it to 12v but so far no issues.
I have a Pertronix Ignitor in my 1966 Corvair Monza Sedan, and i am quite happy with it. I also have 24 years of experience in the Air Force as an electronics technician, and retired as an E7 (Master Sergeant). So I do have some understanding of the technical aspects of electronic systems and components. I have been around Corvairs since I was 8 years old, took my first driver's test in a 1965 Corsa convertible in 1969, and have continued to drive and maintain my Corvairs throughout my Air Force career while supporting and raising my family at locations throughout the USA and in Europe. At age 70 I still drive Corvairs as "daily drivers" and write on the Corvair Forum to try to contribute — where I have some experience — to try to assist other Corvair owners where I feel I can.

I have been trying to explain why an upgrade to an electronic ignition system is generally a wise choice as it reduces maintenance problems and increases reliability while driving these aging cars. I have installed optical trigger (Crane Cams/FAST) and magnetic trigger ignition systems in my Corvairs, and have never regretted it. I do carefully read the sometimes confusing or poorly written instruction manuals, and as such realize where many of the pitfalls and problem areas are, and why these electronic ignition systems can malfunction or cause problems — especially if the installation instructions are not understood, properly interpreted, or followed.

In the Air Force our electronic maintenance instruction manuals are called Technical Orders. We maintain and repair millions of dollars worth of electronic systems throughout the world, and many of these systems support high priority, critically important communications systems that must be maintained and operated for maximum reliability. As a supervisor I was trained to insist that all work be done while referencing the applicable Tech Orders, and we train our enlisted technicians to understand and adhere to the written procedures contained in USAF Technical Orders, and other Air Force regulations, manuals and Defense Communications Agency reference materials.

Military Tech Orders, whether applicable to electronic systems, aircraft, cars and trucks, or whatever is being maintained and worked on are routinely upgraded and revised — and changes to those Tech Order libraries are received and posted all the time. There can be many reasons for revisions and changes to existing published Tech Orders, but we are required to update and maintain the Tech Orders that are applicable to our systems and post those revisions as soon as possible after the changes are received. The reasons for the changes are often procedure clarification or error corrections — but the intent is to acknowledge the need for improved documentation to ensure that proper maintenance procedures are readily available in the field.

So what makes you think that a Pertronix instruction manual is not subject to being revised, improved upon, or rewritten over time? Most companies have a technical support/customer support unit that answers requests from customers for guidance or clarification. Frequent questions or confusion on the part of customers may often result in a modification to published instruction manuals to make them easier to understand or to reduce confusion. The components sold by Pertronix may also be revised or improved over the years, if technical flaws are noted.

I have been attempting here to point out why installing a Pertronix Ignitor in accordance with an original, or old instruction manual may be a mistake — ESPECIALLY IF PERTRONIX PUBLISHED A REVISED MANUAL TO CLARIFY A PROBLEM AREA, SUCH AS A FREQUENT ISSUE WITH LOW-VOLTAGE RESULTING IN A MALFUNCTION OR IN UNSTABLE OPERATION. If an early instruction manual did not state that the ballast resistor should be bypassed, and it was later determined that leaving a ballast resistor in the Primary circuit could cause problems, Pertronix would likely revise the instructions based on customer feedback and frequent complaints received by Customer Service. As written in the Pertronix Australia online help website I referenced earlier...
PERTRONIX wrote:PERTRONIX IGNITOR AND COIL INSTALLATION TROUBLESHOOTING

WHAT APPLICATIONS ARE COVERED WITH THE PERTRONIX FLAME-THROWER COILS?
Our Flame-Thrower coils are designed specifically for compatibility with our Ignitor 1, 2 and 3 units. However, the Flame-Thrower 1 Coil may also be used with a point type system or any other system that calls for a 1.5 or 3.0-ohm coil.

MY VEHICLE IS MISFIRING OR BREAKING DOWN UNDER LOAD. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
This problem is NEARLY ALWAYS associated with low voltage at the unit, preventing the unit from operating correctly. The unit is actually turning off, and back on as the coil charges and releases energy. The best possible remedy for this problem is to wire the Ignitor unit's RED WIRE directly to a switched 12-volt source away from any voltage reduced circuit, such as a resistor wire or ballast resistor. These circuits usually are in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The Ignitor™ lead (red wire) can go directly to the ignition switch or any other "switched" source on the fuse panel. The coil will still need a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance, either internally such as the Flame-Thrower or in the form of a resistor wire or ballast resistor. We think you will find when you have these "breaking up" problems, low voltage is the culprit!
We also highly recommend seeking a qualified auto-electrician to make this adjustment for you.
The online help goes on to describe how to resolve such problems. Pertronix has also revised their instruction booklets to instruct installers how to test for the presence of a ballast resistor or resistor wire, and how and why it should be bypassed.

I have read comments from others stating that they installed a Pertronix Ignitor while leaving the ballast resistor in the circuit. They even stated that the original manual from Pertronix said that it was OK to do that! They effectively called Pertronix "stupid" for later revising their instruction booklet, which now indicates that the ballast resistor should be bypassed. I tried to show why this would make sense, since the original circuit that supported ignition points used a voltage divider circuit that routinely causes the voltage to drop down too far for proper Pertronix Ignitor function. Their instructions indicates that the ballast resistor should be bypassed for the Pertronix Ignitor. The Pertronix instructions further indicate that the ballast resistor may be retained for the original 1.5 ohm coil ONLY, to help the coil by reducing heat buildup in the 1.5 ohm coil. Alternately, Pertronix recommends switching to a 3.0 ohm coil (with a 4 or 6 cylinder engine) that is engineered to be powered directly by the nominal 12 VDC vehicle power source. Either way, the Pertronix Ignitor gets full system voltage within the specified range of 8-16 VDC, while the coil has approximately 3 ohms of resistance (by retaining the 1.8 ohm ballast resistor plus the 1.5 ohm coil, or by switching to a 3.0 ohm coil) to limit internal Primary current and heat buildup within the coil.

So why defend the original ballast resistor voltage divider setup that was designed in the 1960s and earlier to support ignition points? THE MODIFICATION AND CHANGE TO A PERTRONIX IGNITOR ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM DEMANDS THE REMOVAL OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR TO ENSURE PROPER SOURCE VOLTAGE FOR THE PERTRONIX IGNITOR! The points and condenser, which was the main reason for the ballast resistor in the first place, have been removed from the vehicle! Retaining the ballast resistor in the Pertronix Ignitor power circuit places the Ignitor operating at or below the bottom-end of the acceptable range of 8-16 VDC. Some may get away with it, and others may have problems surface — as described in the Pertronix troubleshooting guidelines.

Pertronix has revised their published instructions and provided technical support via telephone or via Internet online troubleshooting guidelines to try to clarify instructions for a proper, trouble-free installation. Those who choose to ignore those revised instructions may choose to do so, since they know better than the stupid Pertronix engineering and customer support team!

I believe that I understand the reason for the revised instructions from Pertronix. They have stated that their Pertronix Ignitor will function properly if the input voltage never dips below 8 VDC and never exceeds 16 VDC. It must also have a proper ground, and Pertronix' instructions explain how to test and evaluate the source voltage and the system ground. I've shown how the voltage divider may cause the source voltage to dip below 8 VDC, and how an improperly operating alternator or generator voltage regulator can sometimes cause the charging system voltage to rise above 16 VDC. I even recommended adding a voltmeter to the Corvair instrumentation, which will tell you a lot more than the factory "IDIOT LIGHT". A poor ground for the Pertronix Ignitor can also cause a malfunction. All of this is discussed in the newest Pertronix installation instructions.

I will continue to encourage Corvair owners to upgrade their ignition systems to eliminate the points and condenser. I also encourage moving the coil away from the hot cylinder head and mounting the oil-filled coil vertically to avoid leaks, retaining the Delco 1.42 ohm coil coupled with an external ballast resistor wire in the circuit (the original Corvair configuration), or alternately removing/bypassing the ballast resistor wire altogether and substituting an aftermarket 3.0 ohm coil. The Pertronix Ignitor II can work OK in the Corvair, with the exception of the slow-idling Powerglide Corvair, and the Flamethrower II 0.6 ohm coil is simply overkill and not needed in the Corvair, and is more costly and potential trouble that should be avoided.

I care very much about real world experience, and when there appears to be a discrepancy between the experience others have had and the recommendations/guidance/published instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer (in this case, Pertronix) I try to determine the reason. In this case, it appears that those who power the Pertronix Ignitor by tapping off of the positive ignition coil terminal (as shown in the Pertronix instructions), but also disregard the advice to bypass the ballast resistor in the vehicle Primary ignition circuit will typically power the Ignitor module with only about 6.17 VDC (assuming 14 VDC from the alternator or generator). When starting the engine, the starter solenoid bypasses the voltage divider circuit, powering the Ignitor with full battery voltage of approximately 12 VDC. This, of course, meets the Pertronix standard for the Ignitor of between 8 and 16 VDC, but the moment the engine starts and the key is released, the voltage to the Ignitor drops back to about 6.17 VDC because of the ballast resistor wire. While this is significantly lower than the 8 VDC minimum specified by Pertronix, it appears that it is often just enough to keep the engine running. Any further power degradation, however, might just be enough to introduce unstable operation. Variables such as a poor ground or a discharged or weak battery output might be enough to introduce faulty operation of the Pertronix Ignitor module. These variables and differences from car to car might explain why some owners have problems, while other say that it is OK to leave the ballast resistor wire in the circuit.

Removing the ballast resistor wire from the circuit places the voltage to the coil positive terminal consistently at the typical 14 VDC seen with an engine running and the charging system in operation, since the voltage divider circuit no longer exists with the ballast resistor wire removed. But in this configuration, the stock Delco-Remy 1.42 ohm ignition coil is also powered continuously at full system voltage, which could cause the coil to run hot. This could be remedied by either replacing the coil with a 3.0 ohm coil (substituting a coil that is engineered to run with a full charging system output powering it), or by powering the original Delco-Remy coil using the stock Corvair voltage divider/ballast resistor wire circuit, but powering the Pertronix Ignitor separately by attaching a power wire for the Pertronix Ignitor directly to the Corvair wiring harness, BEFORE the ballast resistor wire.

NOTE: BOTH of the above ignition coil options are outlined in the Pertronix instructions shown below.

:ty:

Image

Image
Last edited by bbodie52 on Wed Nov 22, 2023 7:41 am, edited 13 times in total.
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Richard »

>>I have a Pertronix Ignitor in my 1966 Corvair Monza Sedan, and i am quite happy with it. I also have 24 years of experience in the Air Force as an electronics technician, and retired as an E7 (Master Sergeant). So I do have some understanding of the technical aspects of electronic systems and components. I have been around Corvairs since I was 8 years old, took my first driver's test in a 1965 Corsa convertible in 1969,<<

I have a Pertronix igniter in a cardboard box and am quite happy with it there. I have only three years experience in the Army as an avionics technician and in two years achieved the grade of E5 plus Pro pay. I took my first driver's test in my dad's 60 Corvair and I owned and drove my 63 Spyder long before you're 65 Corsa was even built.

I repaired aircraft radios in fifth echelon maintenance depots, both stateside and in Vietnam. After the radios were repaired and reinspected by a Tec Inspector the radio's met the same specifications they met when they originally left the factory.
In Vietnam I worked exclusively on the AN/ARC-51BX UHF which is the same radio your Air Force boys used in rotary and fixed wing, all the way up to the B52 bomber.

None of that 50 year old crap has anything to do with how Pertronix ignitors should be wired into a vehicle.
I did on a lark, take the Army license test needed to drive a "Deuce and a Half" but never drove one after that. I did drive a turd they call a ¾ ton on a couple occasions. I don't think any of those had Pertronix ignitors so that experience doesn't mean crap either.
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by davemotohead »

let's just agree, they seem to work wired up both ways! I have had 100% success with the pert 1 unit wired directly to the coil with the resistor wire in place. I and others have had problems with the pert 2 units wired to 12V, but it works for some people,, for a little while anyways!

Let's move on to "Why my electric fuel pump wont work perfectly for over 300,000 miles mounted in the engine compartment because electric pumps will only push gas and not pull gas" :rolling:
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

Pertronix appears to acknowledge that their original installation manual contained some faults, which they are trying to correct by revising the instructions. The revised installation instructions effectively moves the voltage feeding the Pertronix Ignitor from just below the engineer's stated minimum (6 VDC) to somewhere closer to the mid-range (12-14 VDC). The original Corvair ballast resistor wire created a voltage divider network that was needed to protect the ignition points contacts and make them last longer, and also to keep the associated Delco-Remy 1.42 ohm coil running at lower internal temperatures. In the 1960s ignition points were essentially all that was available in mass-produced consumer vehicles.

Some decades later, it is generally acknowledged that an electronic ignition system is better, and is readily available and is desirable for improved automotive reliability. As far as I know, there are no consumer cars being manufactured now that utilize ignition points. There aren't many cars running on bias-ply tires anymore, either. And PCV systems with modern oil formulations have pretty-much eliminated engine sludge. Even GM acknowledged that there was room for improvement in Corvair design between 1960 and 1969, so engineering changes, and shop manual revisions, continued to enter the Corvair world each year for ten years.

Some modern technology can be introduced into our Corvairs without spoiling the classic car "feel".

There are just some technology advancements that make our Corvairs run better and continue to last a long time!
:not worthy: :clap: ::-):
Ralph Nader Reflects On His Auto Safety Campaign, 55 Years Later
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THE CORVAIR APPEARS TO BE AGING BETTER THAN RALPH NADER!


Referred to in an earlier post...
RT-742/ARC-51 BX ARC-51
Collins Radio Company; Cedar Rapids (IA)

Image

The ARC-51 is a UHF AM transmitter/receiver intended for air to ground communication, covering from 225 to 399.9 MHz in 3500 channels, with 16W RF output power. The mechanic and electronic designs are extremely advanced. The external cabinet is sealed and pressurized. Tiny heat exchangers in the basement transfer heat from the internal air flow to an external one. A modular design is used, with the central frame which supports the modules and provides electrical connections and air flow to them. The equipment is almost entirely solid state, with the exception of UHF stages: three tubes are used in the transmitter, three in the receiver and two more in the spectrum generator. The tuning is motor driven, with a driving module and a complex system of gears to distribute motion to radio frequency modules. A standing wave indicator, the ID-1003/AR, is mounted outside the cabinet.

================================================================

This was one of the "toys" I worked in on my first assignment to the 5th Combat Communications Group at Robins AFB, Warner Robins, Georgia.

The AN/TSC-60(V) series of HF Communications Central facilities were utilized by the Air Force to satisfy requirements for point-to-point and ground-to-air HF communications. They were used to establish long haul communications to a DOD communication system entry point or rear main operating base.
TSC-60.jpg
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Frank DuVal »

Brad said:
The diagram shows BOTH a ballast resistor bypass (for the XR3000), and an exception when it should not be bypassed (for the XR700). In the diagram, the XR700 and XR3000 appear to be the same unit. Both are connected to a "coil", yet the XR700 can only support a standard 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm coil, while the XR3000 can also support a high performance 0.6 ohm coil (which could cause an XR700 module to malfunction)! Depending on the actual coil selected, the generic "COIL" is not really defined in the diagram. Some cols need a ballast resistor, and some aftermarket cols want the resistor to be bypassed. This makes the above drawing even more confusing!
Well, I quit reading and looking at all the pictures after I saw this comment on the basic XR700 and XR3000 diagram. The diagram is very clear to me. The diagram shows how the wires are to be connected. Every coil has the same terminals (that we use today, there have been many different styles back in the 20s and 30s). So a simple picture of a coil with a high voltage tower and two screw terminals (+ and -) suffices. :tu: So if this very clear diagram is pronounced confusing, then why would I keep reading more cut and pasted information from the internet from the same source? :angry:

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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Frank DuVal »

Instructions for installing a Pertronix:
1. Buy the correct unit, the original Ignitor. Note, there is no Ignitor I, but we call it that now, since there is an Ignitor II.
2. Install it by removing the Delco points pate (and black wire to the coil - terminal) and installing the Pertroncix points plate.
3. Wire the red Ignitor lead to the + terminal of the coil.
4. Wire the black Ignitor lead to the - terminal of the coil.
5. Start car, adjust timing.
6. Drive and enjoy car!


Not following these simple instructions will result in, what, now 10+ years of answering "why doesn't my Corvair run right after I installed a Pertonix?"

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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

SIMPLE, BUT OBSOLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

It may not run correctly, because the Pertronix Ignitor has different voltage requirement than the original ignition points and the original Delco coil.
  • Pertronix Ignitor 1 Voltage requirements: 8-16 VDC. This standard will not be met if the original ballast resistor wire is left in the Primary ignition circuit. The red power wire for the Ignitor 1 must be connected to the Primary ignition circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch, at a wiring harness connection point BEFORE the ballast resistor wire.
  • Delco-Remy coil Voltage requirements: Nominal 12.5 VDC for initial engine startup, and approximately 6 VDC for continued operation (to maintain limited internal coil heat buildup). This requirement is met by the original Corvair ballast resistor wire voltage divider configuration, in conjunction with the starter solenoid ballast resistor wire bypass that is engaged when the solenoid is activated.
NOTE: Replacing the Delco Remy 1.42 ohm coil with an aftermarket 3.0 ohm coil, such as the Pertronix Flame-Thrower 3.0 ohm coil (Part no. 40501 or 40511), completely eliminates the need for the original Corvair ballast resistor wire. The 3.0 ohm coil will run at acceptable internal temperatures when powered directly without an external ballast resistor. In this configuration, the Corvair ballast resistor wire can be permanently bypassed and the Primary ignition circuit can be connected directly to the coil positive terminal. The Pertronix Ignitor 1 module red power wire can then be connected to the new coil positive terminal, to access full system voltage at that connection point.

Deviating from this configuration disregards the current Pertronix installation instructions, which may result in unstable Pertronix Ignitor 1 operation.


Image
PERTRONIX wrote:PERTRONIX IGNITOR AND COIL INSTALLATION TROUBLESHOOTING

WHAT APPLICATIONS ARE COVERED WITH THE PERTRONIX FLAME-THROWER COILS?
Our Flame-Thrower coils are designed specifically for compatibility with our Ignitor 1, 2 and 3 units. However, the Flame-Thrower 1 Coil may also be used with a point type system or any other system that calls for a 1.5 or 3.0-ohm coil.

MY VEHICLE IS MISFIRING OR BREAKING DOWN UNDER LOAD. WHAT SHOULD I DO?
This problem is NEARLY ALWAYS associated with low voltage at the unit, preventing the unit from operating correctly. The unit is actually turning off, and back on as the coil charges and releases energy. The best possible remedy for this problem is to wire the Ignitor unit's RED WIRE directly to a switched 12-volt source away from any voltage reduced circuit, such as a resistor wire or ballast resistor. These circuits usually are in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The Ignitor™ lead (red wire) can go directly to the ignition switch or any other "switched" source on the fuse panel. The coil will still need a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance, either internally such as the Flame-Thrower or in the form of a resistor wire or ballast resistor. We think you will find when you have these "breaking up" problems, low voltage is the culprit!
We also highly recommend seeking a qualified auto-electrician to make this adjustment for you.
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Frank DuVal »

Who you calling obsolete?:question:

That's a Twilight Zone reference, BTW.

Not obsolete instructions! You are just trying to complicate the procedure because of your misinformation. Listen to Dave and Joel who have them installed on many cars. People with real world experience. And all those satisfied customers of Lon who sold hundreds if not thousands of Ignitors at Corvair Underground. :tu:

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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by bbodie52 »

:goodpost:
So I am misinformed, and decades of electronic training with the Air Force has no value. Just listen to Lon and Dave and decades of arguments, debates, theories and disagreements about this subject among Corvair owners, Ford Mustang enthusiasts, and thousands of other classic car owners and Pertronix customers who believe in the product, but not in the electronics engineers and customer support technical people who actually work for Pertronix! WHAT DO THEY KNOW???

I think that Pertronix engineers and technical writers/customer support personnel know they made an error with the early installation manuals by telling buyers to not worry about removing the old ballast resistor.

The original Delco coil primary resistance value of 1.28-1.42 ohms was likely chosen to match with the 1.8 ohm ballast resistor wire value to produce about 3 ohms of total resistance for the Delco coil Primary to manage heat buildup within the coil. At the same time, the voltage divider circuit was designed to reduce arcing and burning of the points contacts by minimizing the voltage as much as possible during normal engine operation, but this made the coil secondary output too weak to get the cold engine started reliably during engine cranking, so the starter solenoid was used to momentarily compromise the voltage divider resistor circuitry to promote engine starting.

The GM design engineers integrated all of these features into the ignition circuitry to optimize the system for initial startup, and for continued running, and to get the longest life with acceptable reliability out of the system. In other words, they looked at the whole system and designed it using available technology and components to cover the changing environment during engine startup and operation.

More than sixty years later, the picture as changed. Electronic circuitry has improved and Pertronix has developed a modification that allows the points and condenser to be removed and replaced by more-stable and reliable technology. Part of the change is the Pertronix Ignitor. The other part they (Pertronix design engineers) recommend is removing the ballast resistor wire to eliminate the obsolete voltage divider circuitry, and the further recommend replacing the coil with a 3.0 ohm coil to manage internal heat buildup within the coil. For those who don't want to dump the 1.42 ohm original Delco coil, they explain in the manual that the old coil must then continue to be powered though the external ballast resistor wire to keep things cool in the aging, but serviceable coil. BUT THE NEW PERTRONIX IGNITOR NEEDS A HIGHER SOURCE VOLTAGE TO MEET ITS DESIGN SPECS, SO THAT PART OF THE SYSTEM SHOULD BE POWERED DIRECTLY WITHOUT THE BALLAST RESISTOR WIRE IN THE CIRCUIT!

Because of differences in the variety of vehicles that receive the Pertronix Ignitor, some owners have discovered that they can get away with leaving the ballast resistor in the circuit that powers the Ignitor — just like the points and condenser had been there before! For some people, and in some classic cars, this works because the reduced voltage is just-enough to make the Pertronix Ignitor functional. Other owners run into problems with the improper configuration, so they contact Pertronix Customer Service and are told that the Ignitor is suffering from low voltage. They are told how to fix this, and life goes on. But Pertronix has also made an effort to get the word out to ALL of their customers by revising the installation instructions to clear the problem up with consistent proper installations of their Pertronix Ignitor — BUT SOME CUSTOMERS DON'T WANT TO HEAR IT!
Image[/img]are-Clinic_ATBGO_Brand-Mark_Red-2.png[/img]
I attempted to analyze the issue, utilize electronic formulas and multimeter measurements to calculate and demonstrate what is actually occurring in the Primary ignition system on the Corvair when you eliminate the points and condenser, but not the ballast resistor wire that was placed in the circuitry decades ago to help the aging points and condenser system to last longer. I guess this is one of those debates that has a life of its own, and cannot be resolved here. I have wasted enough time trying, and will withdraw.
:cussing: :sad: :goofywave:

With regard to the use of a ballast resistor...
Image
...Perhaps a question
not to be resolved in this century...
Brad Bodie
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Re: Resistor wire and pertronix II installation

Post by Frank DuVal »

I am an Electrical Engineer.

PE too!

But that's just bragging, so I do not bring it up, I just answer the questions with my years of Corvair and GM experience.


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