'62 Monza convertible "Ralphie"

[Dennis66]

Thanks. I know about rain. They're talking about more this coming weekend. Didn't realize it, but we had several areas with flooding (usually about a foot of water in some houses, these are areas most people know to avoid when buying)
I got everything swapped over. Not too much difference Still have low vacuum. I did find this: If I push slightly on the throttle shafts, the idle speed increases. I didn't think these shafts were worn that bad, they certainly are better than the originals. Probably will end up with new throttle shafts. Either way, the carbs are coming back off (again). I still have a few tricks up my sleeve.
I got the back up switch out (along with transmission fluid). Seems to be leaking from where the plug spades come out of the plastic. They had been bent from the shop sitting the transaxle on them. I have an idea on that too. I changed out the voltage regulator today too. Now, the generator light goes out once you rev it a bit. The other regulator was a solid state regulator. I got to thinking that the mechanical regulators have a set of electro magnets and contacts inside. I thought "If the contacts disconnect one circuit, and connect another (as I thought I remembered), that could be why the light stays on). Think I was right. Getting 14.7 volts.
Also noticed that the rear is sagging about 1-1/2". It has new springs and shocks (shocks have nothing to do with ride height unless they're helper shocks, which don't fit this application). My rear wheels are showing negative camber. Now there might be a camber adjustment, but i don't think it will clear up the 1-1/2 sag. I'll look into that, but probably have to add spring spacers. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Thanks. I know about rain. They're talking about more this coming weekend. Didn't realize it, but we had several areas with flooding (usually about a foot of water in some houses, these are areas most people know to avoid when buying)
I got everything swapped over. Not too much difference Still have low vacuum. I did find this: If I push slightly on the throttle shafts, the idle speed increases. I didn't think these shafts were worn that bad, they certainly are better than the originals. Probably will end up with new throttle shafts. Either way, the carbs are coming back off (again). I still have a few tricks up my sleeve.
I got the back up switch out (along with transmission fluid). Seems to be leaking from where the plug spades come out of the plastic. They had been bent from the shop sitting the transaxle on them. I have an idea on that too. I changed out the voltage regulator today too. Now, the generator light goes out once you rev it a bit. The other regulator was a solid state regulator. I got to thinking that the mechanical regulators have a set of electro magnets and contacts inside. I thought "If the contacts disconnect one circuit, and connect another (as I thought I remembered), that could be why the light stays on). Think I was right. Getting 14.7 volts.
Also noticed that the rear is sagging about 1-1/2". It has new springs and shocks (shocks have nothing to do with ride height unless they're helper shocks, which don't fit this application). My rear wheels are showing negative camber. Now there might be a camber adjustment, but i don't think it will clear up the 1-1/2 sag. I'll look into that, but probably have to add spring spacers. Dennis

Years ago I looked around to see if anybody sold an electronic solid state voltage regulator for the old generator cars. Found nothing. Now I see there are some DIY articles and some units sold on ebay and Amazon.

The shop manual has a good explanation about the electro-mechanical voltage regulator works Basically relays to control the generator, but WELL MADE relays that could open and close at high speeds. The contact points were made from a durable alloy. Today if someone built a voltage regulator to DELCO specifications it would be relatively expensive. Due to low demand the new electro mechanical voltage regulators are usually made by some off shore company and while they work, they are built inexpensively and tend to have a short lifespan.

The EM Corvair, like most swing axle cars, uses ride height to set the camber. If you want to read some interesting swing axle information, read about the old Mercedes 300SL swing axles. The coupes had handling issues at the limit. The swing axle design was revised for the later 300SL convertible, but the coupe was never upgraded, instead it just went out of production since the convertible was determined to be preferred by S. California buyers.

Your new rear springs should not cause the car to be that low. There is a possibility someone cut a coil our of the new springs. Did you order the springs, or were they on the car. Keep in mind the 64 springs are softer due to the revised leaf spring suspension. Mixing 64 and earlier rear springs is a recipe for problems.

[66vairguy]

So it appears this "199" vacuum advance (VA) is unobtanium. Clark's doesn't even have a listing for it. I can just about guarantee that it currently DOESN'T have one. The VA that was on my 296 distributor was completely immobile. I tossed it. I happened to have a VA from am old Buick V-6 that looks the same, so I put that on the 296. TBH, until now, I was unaware of all the different VAs except the turbo ones. Back in the day, we didn't know or care. By time I started "learning", everything was controlled by the ECMs. This is one more reason I am so appreciative for the vast amount of Corvair knowledge that is shared here. Any ideas of a reasonable substitute? I imagine the differences are in the mechanical limit for advance and possibly spring tension against the diaphragm. Dennis

O.K. --- Due to bad weather I have a day to sit in front of the computer and found some information on your 1110296 distributor. First the #199 vacuum advance range is 0 degrees @ 6" and maximum 24 degrees @ 16".
This is very close to the 110HP #230 with 0 degrees @ 6" and maximum 24 degrees @ 16".
The 140HP #248 0 degrees @ 6" and maximum 22 degrees @ 14".
NOTE: GM later listed #217 as a replacement with 0 degrees @ 7" and maximum 24 degrees @ 15"
As you can see the differences are minor and with today's gasoline that might have an impact on your decision. Of course the 110HP engine in 65/66 cars were fairly common so a NOS #230 might be available.
Clark's sells a "REPRO" #217 and #248, but you know how "off shore" stuff goes.

The 1110296 parts are:
Points cam #27
Shaft plate that holds the flyweights #124
Flyweights shape/size is "D"
NOTE: Same parts as 1962 102HP distributor # 1110272, EXCEPT the flyweight springs are 0.020" longer in 1110296.

Good luck with the project.

[Dennis66]

Thanks so much Bob. I did notice that the 296 had "37" for counter weights, and the springs were definitely thicker than the springs in the other distributor. The other distributor had no markings on the counter weights. Forgot to post that information yesterday. Not too worried about "today's gas". I typically drive my stuff pretty easy ( well, once I get my Baja in 5th on the interstate...). I may opt for the non ethanol in the Corvair anyway. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Thanks so much Bob. I did notice that the 296 had "37" for counter weights, and the springs were definitely thicker than the springs in the other distributor. The other distributor had no markings on the counter weights. Forgot to post that information yesterday. Not too worried about "today's gas". I typically drive my stuff pretty easy ( well, once I get my Baja in 5th on the interstate...). I may opt for the non ethanol in the Corvair anyway. Dennis

Your welcome.

I have yet to have a problem with E10 gasoline in my Corvairs. I use modern fuel hoses and don't use more than 10% ethanol fuels (E10). Some folks have warned E15 (15%) is pushing it and should not be used in old cars.

A buddy got all worried about E10 in his old Packard ruining the carburetor. He removed the carburetor and dismantled it. The carburetor was clean with no evidence of any corrosion damage. In the old days I saw problems with cars the sat too long with non-ethanol gasoline that dried out in the bowl. I suggest driving the car regularly to keep the bowls full of fresh fuel and don't worry about E10.

[Dennis66]

I believe a lot of the ethanol stuff was "war nerves". A good part of my mechanical experience has also been small engines. What I have seen a lot is water damage. Ethanol attracts water. Here in humid Florida, you can pour fresh ethanol in a pan and watch it start to haze as it absorbs water from the air. Most small equipment has vented gas caps. I've seen many small engine carbs where the whole bowl was white, powdery corrosion from water. Some claim the alcohol is attacking it - NOT. I have seen some cases where rubber didn't fare well when used with ethanol, but again, not nearly as bad as some claim. This is nothing new. As a WWII and aviation history buff, I have read accounts where our B-17 engines had problems with carburetor diaphragms (altitude compensating) from running "aromatic fuel blends (a type of ethanol) that the Dutch used in the Far East.
What I agree 100% on, and the main reason I would consider non ethanol. Ethanol goes bad fast. I've seen several cases where the fuel was clean, the carburetor was clean, and it wouldn't start or run. Drain the junk out of it, fill with fresh fuel, and it starts and runs fine. Fact is, my Corvair will probably do a lot of sitting. My initial insurance quote was for 1,000 miles per year. That isn't a lot of driving. we'll see when I get to the actual driving stage. Dennis

[66vairguy]

I believe a lot of the ethanol stuff was "war nerves". A good part of my mechanical experience has also been small engines. What I have seen a lot is water damage. Ethanol attracts water. Here in humid Florida, you can pour fresh ethanol in a pan and watch it start to haze as it absorbs water from the air. Most small equipment has vented gas caps. I've seen many small engine carbs where the whole bowl was white, powdery corrosion from water. Some claim the alcohol is attacking it - NOT. I have seen some cases where rubber didn't fare well when used with ethanol, but again, not nearly as bad as some claim. This is nothing new. As a WWII and aviation history buff, I have read accounts where our B-17 engines had problems with carburetor diaphragms (altitude compensating) from running "aromatic fuel blends (a type of ethanol) that the Dutch used in the Far East.
What I agree 100% on, and the main reason I would consider non ethanol. Ethanol goes bad fast. I've seen several cases where the fuel was clean, the carburetor was clean, and it wouldn't start or run. Drain the junk out of it, fill with fresh fuel, and it starts and runs fine. Fact is, my Corvair will probably do a lot of sitting. My initial insurance quote was for 1,000 miles per year. That isn't a lot of driving. we'll see when I get to the actual driving stage. Dennis

Yes gasoline goes bad and the ethanol may aggravate that, but I haven't seen any data. WITH a preservative, which some don't like, gasoline life in a vented tank is only 12months (Sta Bil says 1 - 3 years) in a humid area. Without a preservative gasoline goes bad in 3-6 months!!!! I've had to drain my tank a few times from sitting too long.

Yup, the fact is gasoline WITHOUT ethanol will attract water because the evaporation vapor layer just on top of the gasoline is COLD and water condenses out of the warm air as it is cooled by gasoline evaporation. Always been a BIG deal for small piston engine aircraft and the first thing a good instructor teaches a student is DRAIN THE FUEL TANK SUMPS BEFORE THE FIRST FLIGHT OF THE DAY!!!! Even today I still read accident reports that say "Aircraft crashed due to engine failure during takeoff because of water in the fuel".

[Dennis66]

Yes, Used to have to drain (into test tube) sumps at each wing tank and at gascolator (engine fuel filter). Bet they don't just dump the fuel on the ground any more. The one time I got to assist with starting a B-17 they primed each engine with what looked like about a half gallon of fuel. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Yes, Used to have to drain (into test tube) sumps at each wing tank and at gascolator (engine fuel filter). Bet they don't just dump the fuel on the ground any more. The one time I got to assist with starting a B-17 they primed each engine with what looked like about a half gallon of fuel. Dennis

Actually back in the day the small airport operators would get furious with small plane pilots about dumping sump fuel on asphalt parking aprons as it would ruin the asphalt.

I had a buddy who was in the Air Force servicing the big planes and he had some interesting stories to tell.

[Dennis66]

UPDATE. I just purchased a NOS 199 vacuum advance. It popped up on ebay a little over a week ago. I put a bid and won the auction this afternoon.
I've been kind of quiet on my project lately, here's the latest delay: About 5 years ago my in-laws moved to Florida full time. They'd had a trailer in a park and had been snowbirding. Three days after moving down, they bought another trailer, much newer, much nicer, but with high maintenance landscaping that the park doesn't cover. About 6 months after this, my father in law passed. After another two years, we moved my mother in law to an assisted living facility as she was unable to live by herself. Obviously, the whole time, everything that needed done down there became MY responsibility. Right before Christmas, we finally got approval to sell the trailer. I spent about two weeks going down there every day, after work, days off, holidays and weekends, fixing things, cleaning things and removing things. Any free time, it's been raining down here (supposed to rain again tomorrow). This Saturday, I'm having a garage sale to get rid of all the stuff that came from the trailer to my now packed garage (it will become "Corvair money"). Hopefully, next week, I get back on track. Dennis

[Project65]

Hang in there Dennis! Looking forward to more updates and photos.

[66vairguy]

Good find on the vacuum advance.

Part of getting older is the responsibility of dealing with aging parents, been there myself.

[Dennis66]

So it was kind of back in the saddle today. First was clearing out the workshop and putting a few things in proper places. Then back to where I was about a month ago. This was "Project T"

Project T involved removing both carbs and installing the turbo system that had come with one of my parts scores (MINUS exhaust plumbing). I was curious to see what kind of vacuum and operation the engine would have with the sloppy carbs replaced by one. I had previously run my '66 Corsa (purchased without an engine) back in High School with a Turbo carb setup that I had picked up for 10.00 back in the day (it was missing the exhaust housing and had been sitting for God knows how long). That one, after a quick cleaning, had actually worked pretty well. I will say that the snail area of the compressor got pretty cold, can't remember if it iced or not. That was just for driving the car around the neighborhood, as this one would have been. Hooked everything up, and it cranked right up, but the carb was flooding pretty bad (I had cleaned it, but no kit installed. I always had pretty good luck with Carter carbs, but this one not so. Everything came back off (there is another project waiting for the carb / turbo setup). The plus to this was my short carb studs were always too long, so while everything was apart, I shortened them by about a half inch.
I ordered a Facet electric fuel pump, then I placed an order with Clark's for throttle and choke shafts, carb gaskets (bowl, cluster, and base) and a pair of the updated float valves (mine hadn't leaked, but as long as I'm in there...) Now we wait for parts to come in and in the mean time I sort out if I want a "close tank" or engine compartment installation for the fuel pump. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Looks good Dennis

The only time I have dealt with a turbo carburetor was on raffle car from a club decades ago. I've been told that Carter carb was revised many times on the Corvair. The design goes back to the 50's.

I forget who rebuilt the carburetor, but the first thing that happened is fuel POURED out of the air cleaner after starting the engine! Everyone was frustrated. One fellow pulled the top off and the float looked fine. I looked at it and pulled the float needle out and looked in the seat and there was a itty bitsy piece of PAPER keeping the float needle from sealing on the seat. I can only guess it came out of the brand new fuel filter. After that it ran much better, but power was off and fuel mileage was only 6 MPG after a hundred miles of testing!!!! Timing and distributor were good.

A call to turbo expert Steve Goodman in Colorado and he graciously advised us to install a GOOD fuel pressure regulator (not bolted on engine as fuel regulators don't like vibration) and set it to 2.5 PSI at sea lever (in Golden/Denver area he sets them to 2PSI). The folks in the club got it done and WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The car ran great, more power and fuel mileage increased - problem solved.

I've never read Bob Helt's Carter book, but if it is a good as the Rochester book it might be worth buying.

[Project65]

Good luck with the carb rebuild! Would love to see some photos of your work when you get into it.

Curious what others may advise or share regarding the fuel pump location. My thought would be underneath and up front by the tank so the pump would push the fuel rather than pull. However, the stock pump is pulling.

[Dennis66]

Yeah, on the Carter, after throwing in the towel, I realized that the fuel pump I was using has a 4-7 PSI rating. Much greater than the 2.5 the YH carbs are supposed to have. When it started flooding, I turned off the pump and the fuel valve between my little tank and the pump, but the line could still have been pressurized. Doesn't matter now. Funny thing, way back when I was running the YH on my '66, I didn't have any issues. It was hooked directly to the mechanical pump.
I know the YH carbs go back farther than 1954, but the claim to fame was the triple YH set up used on the 54 Corvette with the BLUE FLAME 6 cylinder. I also recently learned about some interesting applications using manifolds and dual YH carbs.
Today's mail brought my Bob Helt book and my 199 vacuum advance - still in the Delco box. I got a confirmation of my Clark's order being shipped
For John: Yes, I will take plenty of pictures. Dennis