Heater fan motor replacement.

[34nineteen]

I did the same thing to mine, except I bought screws that were too short.

We can finish up the motor discussion in another thread.

[34nineteen]

In the previous post, the screws I originally bought were 3/8" long. So when I went back I bought both 1/2 and 5/8" long screws.

I wound up using 10-24x5/8 phillips screws with some smaller fender washers and "low profile" nylock nuts. You could probably get by using 1/2" long screws, but it will be close and may not engage the nylock part of the nut. Especially if you use normal size nylock nuts.

Thanks again 66vairguy for all of your help!

[65Monza140]

Thank you all for all the helpful info! I am removing the powertrain, so will be able to pull the heater box out and give it a good cleaning from there forward. The car sat a decade or two and cleaning out the vermin smells will be a priority.

The whole heater system has to work well, and I am leaning toward closing off the top shroud mag fan outlet as in winter at 7000 ft it isn't needed - heat is! The more the better.

Has anyone heard of adding a diesel trunk mounted (janitrol want to be) heater to a LM? I see ebay's got them for RVs and whatnot, for under $80. For instant heat they are hard to beat, but you have to do a custom install in the trunk.

There's a lot of detail in getting this old girl fun to drive again.

This is going to be the 140 EFI, probably Brown's 3rd gen system, as it looks like all the parts are off the shelf except the airhorn injector mount mod on the top of the carbs.

66Vairguy, I'd love to get your 140 HP info you mentioned above. I'll PM you about it.

Thank you again!

[66vairguy]

There is no doubt a leaking air hose from the top of the fan shroud to the heater box will cause a hot spot of the #5 cylinder (unless you have the turbo or A/C shroud with the air exit on the drivers side). That said I always run the hose and have NO issues. GM made a LOT of Corvairs with this hose installed without issues. The problem is folks don't inspect the hose on a yearly basis and replace the hose when it fails (NOT an easy task!).

I live in a mild climate and like to use the heat mix lever to select from warm to hot. The heat from the lower engine hoses to the heat box is pressurized (by the engine cooling fan) so GM discovered they had to take cool pressurized air from the top of the engine shroud to the heater box to mix hot and cool air via a flap in the heater box. If you leave the cool air hose inlet open, then when you select cool or warm heater air the heater box flapper lets the pressurized hot air go out the the cool air inlet. HOWEVER if you run the heater fan it kind of works. Just something to be aware of.

Finally -- when a Corvair heater system is in proper condition it is as good, or better, than any water heater car of the era!

[Frank DuVal]

and I am leaning toward closing off the top shroud mag fan outlet

I always cut a piece of tin to the shape of the hose adapter, drill three holes, paint it and cover the hole, even if I put the hose & adapter back on for looks. I also close the hole into the heater box on lates (tin cans). Earlies I just put that few inches of hose back on. I can always open a window or kick panel vent to add a little cool (cold) air to the cabin. I did this for all my customer's cars also back in the shop days. I never heard a "heat too hot" complaint.

[belaraphon]

In response to the original question: replacing the fan motor is not hard.

• Jack up the rear of the car
  Remove the right rear tire
  Disconnect the hot air hose from the right side of the engine
  Undo the screws holding the fan in place and drop it out. Remove the power wire.
  Transfer the old squirrel cage to the new fan

If you want to rebuild the air blend assembly I think you can get it out if you remove the right half shaft as shown in the first picture. You can make your own rubber gaskets as I did using EPDM rubber. I sourced it from a flower shop as "pond liner sold by the foot". Check out the pictures. ( believe I used rubber cement to secure the EPDM to the metal flap. Clean both surfaces with solvent). You can use this on the vent doors in the cabin or use the Clark's kit. If I remember correctly the defroster also had a rubber flap and I replaced it with one I made from the EPDM rubber sheet.