John’s 65 sedan

[66vairguy]

Thank you for the information.

[Dennis66]

John,
Saw this video and had to think about your project. It could have been worse. Dennis

[bbodie52]

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do
Song by Neil Sedaka


Lyrics
Do do do
Down dooby doo down down
Comma, comma, down dooby doo down down
Comma, comma, down dooby doo down down
Breaking up is hard to do

Don't take your love away from me
Don't you leave my heart in misery
If you go then I'll be blue
'Cause breaking up is hard to do

SURELY THERE MUST BE SOMEBODY I THE AUDIENCE WHO WOULD BE WILLING TO TACKLE THIS RESTORATION PROJECT!!!

[Dennis66]

"Ran when parked". Dennis

[Project65]

Wow! That’s Hilarious! At least mine drug out of the woods in one piece and I had the engine running after a week. Probably because it’s a Sedan! Call me crazy for restoring mine , but that green coupe is a pile of scrap metal! Yeah, if that would have happened to my car, I would have left it there in the woods.

Enjoy a few photos from the beginning of the project.

It’s come a long way in 27 months.

[Project65]

I made a trip back to the body shop yesterday. My son hit a deer with his vehicle and we needed some assistance with getting things straightened out and the passenger side door open. While there, I was able to get a few more photos as the progress continues…

The car is now all in top coat primer with all of the minor imperfections gone. The body is looking great! It still needs wet sanded smooth. The doors are all off and getting sanded and prepped for painting.

Here’s a few photos.

[66vairguy]

You have put a lot of time and effort into saving the car. In my opinion it is better than sitting in front of: T.V., game console, computer screen, phone screen all the time. Accomplishing something by doing something is good. It also isn't a like a job since you do it on your own terms.

I've put more time and money into my "sport sedan" than it is worth in dollars, but the fun I have with it is as they say "priceless".

Your picture illustrates the phrase "Rust Bucket".

IMG_5830.jpeg (87.14 KiB) Viewed 572 times

[69vairluvr]

Hiii heard about this on FB and was told to come by and read up.
Where do I start??

I’m in a bit of a pickle. And need some help as well.
We just bought a 1969 500 and the frame rails are rotted.
Need some inspiration.

Thanks

[66vairguy]

Hiii heard about this on FB and was told to come by and read up.
Where do I start??

I’m in a bit of a pickle. And need some help as well.
We just bought a 1969 500 and the frame rails are rotted.
Need some inspiration.

Thanks

The 1969 models are known for being assembled nearly by hand and "make it work". The frame rails welded to the body should be galvanized and usually don't rust bady, but it is possible yours were not. Normally even when the front floors rust away the frame rails under the floor area are still intact. If your frame rails are badly rusted I'd suggest a good inspection of the floors, rockers, front door hinge area. If most of the car is solid, then you might find a donor car to cut the frame rails off. John will have some good advice.

[Project65]

Hey there 69vairluvr. I hope my thread will provide you the needed inspiration to take on your Corvair rebuild. I’ve cut my car down to the frame and have replaced every body panel all the way around, including the front subframe.

I’d recommend starting a thread in either the introduction section or the project section. Post some good background and photos. The readers will be quick to respond. Let’s see what you’re working with.

As 66vairguy has indicated, depending on how bad your car is, you might need donor parts. I’ve had 2 complete cars, plus the subframe, back seat, and tailpiece from a third. In all, I have body parts from 5 other donor cars and I’m thinking 13 patch panels from Clark’s.

Today I rebuilt the passenger front window. My original window channel was completely rusted. I had a good donor and used it for the rebuild. I sprayed the channel with PB Blaster, then carefully separated the glass from the channel with a narrow paint scraper and a rubber mallet. The donor was only lightly rusted. I gently cleaned up the donor in the media blasting cabinet and sprayed it with some silver rust oleum to prevent future rust.

Reassembly was a bear! Doing it by myself…I really needed 3 hands. So I used some duct tape to hold the new rubber and channel in place, then drove it home with the rubber mallet and a block of wood. It looks great!

[Dennis66]

Ran across this 1969 owner on a facebook group. FB has it's place, but I told them the real help would be found here. Dennis

[Project65]

I agree Dennis. Folks will definitely find great help and information here on the forum.

Tonight I rebuilt the driver’s side front window. It went much easier as I had a second set of hands to hold the channel during installation.

Same process…mark the edges of the channel on the glass, separate the glass from the channel, media blast and paint the channel, cut the rubber and install into the channel, align the channel and new rubber onto the glass, beat the channel on will a rubber mallet and block of wood.

Honestly before I rebuilt the windows, I was afraid of going this route because I didn’t know how to do it. I’ve found it to be very easy to do and I’m sure glad that I did it. It looks new again!

[66vairguy]

I agree Dennis. Folks will definitely find great help and information here on the forum.

Tonight I rebuilt the driver’s side front window. It went much easier as I had a second set of hands to hold the channel during installation.

Same process…mark the edges of the channel on the glass, separate the glass from the channel, media blast and paint the channel, cut the rubber and install into the channel, align the channel and new rubber onto the glass, beat the channel on will a rubber mallet and block of wood.

Honestly before I rebuilt the windows, I was afraid of going this route because I didn’t know how to do it. I’ve found it to be very easy to do and I’m sure glad that I did it. It looks new again!

Looks great John. I felt the same way you did about rebuilding the windows and channels, but once I figured it out it was well worth it. Now my windows go up an down just like when the car was new. I've seen a number of nicely restored cars with worn out rattling windows that didn't go up or down very well. Every time you roll the window up and down you'll appreciate your efforts.

Next you'll get into the door latches. They are usually bound up good from the old white lithium grease. They can't be dismantled, at least not easily. I put them in a pan of gasoline (outside away from any structure) and let them soak for an hour, rinse and repeat. You'll be amazed at the crude that comes out of them. NOTE, this is dangerous process and great care must be taken!! If no parts are broken they will work like new once lubricated. I use Rustoleum "Aluminum metallic" paint as it looks just like the original plating, but you have to apply it in thin coats.

[Project65]

Thanks! I do have sets of door latches in my collection of spare doors; however, I might wait until I get the car back and pull the latches from the doors on the car.

Meanwhile, previously, I ordered the replacement rollers for the window mechanisms from Clark’s. They’re pricey at $5.85 a piece. I bought something like 20 of them. (Ouch!). The inner part of the roller is a rivet. So I had to order a rivet clinching tool. Bought one from Amazon and it arrived today. The rivet size is 7/32”. It require hammering the tool end to drive it down onto the rivet and flare it out.

So tonight’s project was to try it all out. I tried on one of the rear window brackets and roller channels. First, I drilled the old rivet head off with a 9/32” drill, then insert the roller and rivet, I then backed up the rivet outer head (roller side) with a small nut just to serve as a spacer, then hammered the flaring tool onto the rivet over a small anvil and flared the rivet.

I was disappointed that the rivets split unlike the original that flares, but they seem to hold and also they do roll extremely easily in the channels. The windows will glide effortlessly up and down with new rollers.

A few photos.

[66vairguy]

Thanks for the update.

All my rollers were intact. The problem I had was with the rear windows on a four door. Only one roller turned easy (I had two spare windows). After cleaning and lube, I came to the conclusion the original rivets were the issue. As you said they have a rolled shoulder on the pressed side. I supported the frame and CAREFULLY used a big center punch to push the rivet back out just enough so it was still tight, but let the nylon roller spin easily. Worked.

[66vairguy]

One thing to check on the LM door latches. The nylon sliding wedge. Folks report that can crack and break and then you CANNOT open the door more than about an inch. Reported fix is to lay across front seats and KICK the door open with BOTH feet!! This procedure can't be good for the door.

Fortunately I have not had the issue. When you adjust the door posts (that is a lot of fun) you'll see how it contacts the latch and nylon wedge. The nylon wedge has a strong spring, but it should move smoothly when lubed. If not, or it's damaged, I would not use the latch.