‘63 Spyder Convertible

[Beers]

I removed all the interior in preparation for body work. The floor is solid, especially in the rear and the middle where there were only a few patches of surface rust.

The front floors had more corrosion, to the point of pitting and a handful of pinholes through the metal. Looks like the PO tried to solve by painting over, there’s a couple coats of white and black paint over it. Looked awful, but the metal was still solid. Also, the rear floor was dented way up by someone jacking the body up (use the jacking points! ), so hammered those back down.

I degreased and scrubbed everything, then treated the metal with an acid etching. I filled the pinholes with a fiberglass resin and painted the spots that had the surface rust with POR-15. While the POR-15 was still tacky (~4 hours), I top coated with a red oxide and a red primer to match the existing metal and sprayed some black rubber coating on the existing seam sealer.

Now, off to the body shop!

[61SuperMonza]

That is great Beers, the car is really coming along and body work and paint is a big step. So cool

[Beers]

Thanks Norm! Couple shots of the body work. Overall the body is really solid. Some prior body work needed to be addressed with hammer/dolly and welding up some dent puller holes. But overall good sheet metal.

[Beers]

Also wanted to post the windshield removal I did prior to sending the car to the body shop.

On an early model with the gasket it was really easy. Just took a hobby/exacto knife and cut out the top and sides of the gasket from the inside, then pushed on the upper part of the glass from the inside till it rolls out. The windshield already had a crack, so I probably went a little faster than I would have if I wanted to reuse it, but the whole effort took less than 20 minutes, by myself.

Here are some photos of cutting out the gasket on the left side of the windshield, the peeling it down. The pen, pencil, gum wrapper, and penny we’re all stuck down in the front of the dash under the glass. Just showing it as the penny was a 1963 one

Also, here’s a very useful video by Dave motohead where they remove a windshield from an FC, good for any EM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F813lvz ... e=youtu.be

[61SuperMonza]

Thanks for sharing Beers. Seeing the pictures of all your work brings back alot of memories of my project. Your Spyder is going to be a real peach. Keep the info coming.
NORM

[Beers]

While the car is out, tending to a few of the parts that need attention. Replaced the weatherstripping and window channels on the vent windows today.

Wasn’t too bad since I already had the window assemblies out, but still wasn’t a quick job. Just took a little patience on the channels - pop riveted the lowers in, and for the upper channels used one pop rivet at the bottom and bent over the top two of the vent glass rear weatherstripping tabs into the upper channel to hold it in (had to drill two holes in the upper channel that I got from Clark’s to insert the weatherstripping tabs into, the factory upper channel has these holes already knocked out).

Drilled out the two rivets on the upper pivot bracket to allow removal of the vent glass and inner frame. I used the rivets from Clark’s, a piece of 1/4” metal stock, and a vice to reattach the bracket.

Finished window. I made sure to put the stud on the vent glass frame through the weatherstripping and into the main assembly before re-riveting the upper pivot bracket. This ‘63 has the Soft-Ray tinted glass all the way around as a factory accessory so really happy to redo these.

[joelsplace]

Don't forget to tighten the nut on the spring enough so they don't move when you have the vent windows open on the highway. It isn't much fun to tighten in the door.

[County98]

Damn, that looks great! You're doing one helluva job!

[Beers]

Thanks guys. Good advice Joel. When I removed the nut holding the tension spring on the shaft, I kept track of the turns, it was 5.5 on one and 6.5 on the other. When I reinstalled them using the same number turns, they both still felt a little too easy to open, so I gave them both about an extra 3/4’s till the window felt just a little more snug. Last thing I want is having it close itself at highway speed and what a pain to tighten up after everything is installed!

Appreciate the comment County98, I wouldn’t put this on the list of the most enjoyable pieces to redo, but it wasn’t too bad and really happy to get that old cracking weatherstripping replaced!

[Beers]

Getting close to being done on the body work. A couple passes of guide coats and block sanding and finally to last primer before finishing the interior and engine compartment prep. Then sealing and paint.

Prepping the underside of the engine lid and hood.

Note the front end of BruceM’s ‘65 Corsa 180 convertible in the background. Just painted in the original Madeira Maroon. An absolutely stunning car, can’t wait to see it in final form.

[Beers]

Body shop is getting close to being done. Lots of block sanding, and finally some Ember Red

[Beers]

While the body is getting done, had to strip all the buttons and metal trim off the old upholstery and door panels, polish them up, and reinstall on the door panels.

A quick cardboard template really helped line them up. I used the Permatex zip grip glue that Clark recommends. It’s pricey, but this stuff really works on sticking these metal buttons to the vinyl. Definitely recommend.

The metal trim has the tabs.

I’ve previously done one set of seats. Turned out decent but a lot of taking the upholstery on and off to get the right fit. You will get very friendly with the hog ring pliers lol. This time, I had a local upholstery guy (who has done a lot of Corvairs) do the seats. Used Clark’s covers.

[Beers]

Body work and paint close to getting done. A lot more block sanding and finally some Ember Red on the body. The shop used 5 coats of single stage PPG. Then cut starting with 1200 and working up to 3000 and then compound.

The paint is smooth as glass, but still a slight haze as they will hold off on polishing till after the hood, engine lid, and doors go back on.

[doug6423]

[Beers]

Finally got the car back from the shop. Exterior all done in single stage PPG match of Ember Red. All the block sanding, and the cutting and buffing the paint, was a lot of extra work but it gave it a great finish and the panel/gap alignment was spot on.

Interior painted with white/red (red to match the dash). Went with 60% gloss on all the white parts and the red on the A pillars, and 10% gloss on the dash and all the other red trim pieces.

Wheel in place, test fitting the dash and trim pieces.

[Beers]

This is a ‘62-‘63 4-speed I picked up to either use/rebuild, or have as a core.

I’ve never pulled apart the insides of a Corvair or any Saginaw manual transmission before, but the end play in pulling up on the main shaft seems far more excessive than other Corvair transmissions I’ve come across. Almost like it’s missing a snap ring or something.

Any thoughts as to why the main shaft is coming out this far? I’ve rebuilt a couple Borg-Warner manuals so not unfamiliar with manual transmissions, just never took apart one of our Corvair manuals.

And other than general gear and seal wear, any thing else I should focus on in inspecting this transmission?