EDIS Revisited?

[miniman82]

You have to be logged in in order to download my maps on that site, the 180hp ones are all I have.

[cvair4life]

Got it.

Totally different question now:

I want to route a remote oil filter inline with a 8 pass oil cooler.... this part is straight forward.

What would you do with the spot where the original oil filter mounts? Need to block it off somehow...

[notched]

I have seen where some guys cut it off and tap for pipe threads or weld fittings for AN line to the 2 feeds that are inside the removed part.

[Danny Joe]

Clark's sells one for $38

[Melb-Mike]

Technical question:

Using the EDIS tooth wheel mounted on the harmonic balancer, you mount is with the open tooth 6 teeth ahead of the pickup while at top dead center. The balancer rotates CCW. Has the open tooth already passed the pickup or is it coming up 6 teeth behind ? For whatever reason(mental block), I'm not UNDERSTANDING the timing thing here.

[miniman82]

Perhaps it helps to read it another way:

http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"On all EDIS installations, the missing tooth of the wheel is aligned with the VR sensor when the engine is at the above TDC value. This means your crank wheel needs to be aligned on the damper such that when the engine is N degrees BTDC, the missing tooth is lined up with the VR sensor. You may need to adjust the wheel slightly so the actual timing matches the intended base timing (10° BTDC). You can use a cam timing wheel to set this, or set Cyl #1 at TDC and advance the crank wheel so the missing tooth is the correct degrees BTDC according to the table above. You can also align the missing tooth with the TDC mark on the balancer and make the VRS sensor mount adjustable."

[Melb-Mike]

Thanks Nick. I found some good installation notes on autosportslabs.net showing the toothed wheel alignment with the sensor. The open tooth precedes the sensor by 6 teeth in the rotation at TDC. I'm thinking of using the EDIS on my 66 turbo rebuild. I may need your help with the timing table when I get that far, but that will be a while.

[miniman82]

I have a map posted on the autosport forum, just get a login and you should be able to download it. That will get you started, but every engine is different so you'll want to play with it to see what it likes.

[Melb-Mike]

Ok, thanks for letting me know.

[cvair4life]

I have a map posted on the autosport forum, just get a login and you should be able to download it. That will get you started, but every engine is different so you'll want to play with it to see what it likes.

Sweet found your hot weather and chicago turbo maps.

Any advice for reading/learning how to make them work?

[miniman82]

Just the documentation that's already out there, it's pretty common sense. As you step on the gas, the little bug dancing around the timing map goes towards higher MAP numbers. Anything above 100 kpa is boost, anything below is vacuum. Actually that was the hardest part to get past, since my whole life up to that point had revolved around psi for boost and in/hg for vacuum. But once you get used to it, it's easy to see what's happening. Best thing to do is take data logs, then review what it's doing after a drive- unless you have someone who can drive for you while you make changes. If you're gonna tune by yourself, do what I did:

While logging if you detect detonation with your calibrated ear, hit spacebar on the laptop and it will mark that point of the log so you can look at it to see the specific conditions while the car isn't moving. Then you can make a few timing changes and do another run, to see if the change you made had some improvement.

[cvair4life]

Just the documentation that's already out there, it's pretty common sense. As you step on the gas, the little bug dancing around the timing map goes towards higher MAP numbers. Anything above 100 kpa is boost, anything below is vacuum. Actually that was the hardest part to get past, since my whole life up to that point had revolved around psi for boost and in/hg for vacuum. But once you get used to it, it's easy to see what's happening. Best thing to do is take data logs, then review what it's doing after a drive- unless you have someone who can drive for you while you make changes. If you're gonna tune by yourself, do what I did:

While logging if you detect detonation with your calibrated ear, hit spacebar on the laptop and it will mark that point of the log so you can look at it to see the specific conditions while the car isn't moving. Then you can make a few timing changes and do another run, to see if the change you made had some improvement.

Good advice - thanks Nick. I won't be doing this job till late Sept when I go back to work on my car in Utah. But I'm making sure I'll have everything ready and studied out so hopefully the conversion and prep is smooth and fast.

[LBC TITAN]

You have to be logged in in order to download my maps on that site, the 180hp ones are all I have.

Can this EDIS system work with just the 140 engine?

[acarlson]

EDIS is just an ignition system. The map you load determines the timing.

I installed an EDIS system on my '66 turbo.

If you want to see how that was done, I wrote a white paper on it:
http://www.cincotek.com/Corvair/Corvair ... ersion.pdf

I also posted a short movie of my first attempt at starting my engine.
http://www.cincotek.com/Corvair/66Vair_EDIS6.mp4

Alec

[nirvairna]

You have to be logged in in order to download my maps on that site, the 180hp ones are all I have.

Can this EDIS system work with just the 140 engine?

Like acarlson posted, it's just an ignition system and will work with either turbo or normally aspirated engines. If you read his installation article it might help to understand how it works, he did a very nice job on the installation and the article.

If you think you might want to add EFI to your engine in the future, you can get a Megasquirt and use it for ignition only, then add fuel control later. A programmable ignition is a very nice upgrade IMHO The Megasquirt I or Megasquirt II is plenty of ECU for our Corvairs.