4 carb choke?

[macadomac]

All primary accelerator linkage iis activated in sync with pressure on the pedal.
There is a hole in the shroud for choke rod linkage to the drvr see rear carb.
Please explain why choking the drvr side front carb won't work.

With all the Corvairs you own why not a convertible?

[Stinger Motorsports]

check out the picture here.. you need to install the choke thermostat rods in order to get them working. You may be able to bend the stock rods into the shape seen here..

Good luck
David C

[macadomac]

This pic gives a view of the whole set up

[macadomac]

another view

[macadomac]

and the last

[macadomac]

I rechecked the linkage with engine running and secondary carbs are a bit behind primaries in reaction time when pedal is depressed. According to 4 carb specs this is the way it is supposed to be?

[flat6_musik]

Are they are fully open when the gas pedal is floored?

[macadomac]

Yes

[flat6_musik]

I rechecked the linkage with engine running and secondary carbs are a bit behind primaries in reaction time when pedal is depressed. According to 4 carb specs this is the way it is supposed to be?

Are they are fully open when the gas pedal is floored?

Yes

Then I think that's all you need to know. The factory configuration is that you toodle around on the primaries and then around 1/2 throttle, the secondaries start opening and all 4 carbs are open @ "pedal to the metal".

[Trip]

Please explain why choking the drvr side front carb won't work.

With all the Corvairs you own why not a convertible?

You need to choke the two carbs that come in first unless they all come in right from the start. On a stock setup this is right front and left rear. I admittedly know almost nothing about carb rotator kits... but from the post above it looks like you do have a proper rotator setup and you should just finish it up with choke linkage of some sort.

I don't have a convertible because I don't like them all that much =P I've owned a 68 Corvette convertible, a 91 Camaro convertible, and a 91 Miata..... I got the convertible thing mostly out of my system though I still might like to have a late model convertible at some point just for variety.. it's a good looking car. My problem with convertibles is I feel like I'm always either cooking in the sun, or freezing in the shade. I'm on medications that make me hyper-sensitive to temperature. I sold my Harley Sportster several years ago for the very same reason.... I love riding on dirt because it is a challenge to overcome the obstacles... riding on the road is BORING!!!!!.. so why put up with the discomfort? I'm a coupe guy, through and through!

The factory four carb setup is "progressive". That means that the two "secondary" carbs stay completely closed until somewhere around half throttle... and at full throttle all four are wide open.

Some people do a custom setup where all four work in unison instead of the progressive setup. This gives better throttle response but less fuel economy. The thing about it is that it only makes a difference when using less than full throttle... I don't know about anyone else but any time I care about acceleration my foot is flat on the floor! I guess the four carbs in unison setup would give the illusion of more power when just tooling around.

Again, the fact that someone installed a rotator kit means there is a good chance they did other engine work... you might have a particularly nice engine there. My 65' 140 Corsa was a former autocross car.. when I took the engine apart I found all kinds of nice goodies that turned my having overpaid for the car into having got a good deal in the end =) That is the engine in my 66' now.... 280 Isky cam, .060 cylinders, forged pistons, finned valve covers and oil pan etc... none of which I knew about when I bought the car. I took it apart, inspected everything closely, installed all new gaskets and have driven it probably 20K miles since without any issues. The only problem I have is that this engine wants lots of RPM, and in the interest of making it last I don't want to run it way over 5k RPM on a frequent basis. When I give it the good romping on rare occasion I've found it best to shift at around 6,200 or higher RPM.

As usual I got a bit off topic, you've got a good running 140 with a rotator kit, make the chokes work and you are golden!

[macadomac]

Thank you all so very much. It is comforting to know that a few tweaks will make it right.
Originally from Buffalo, NY, I am curious as to whether it has snowed at Lake Ariel yet?

[Trip]

No snow here yet, usually we see the first flakes right around Halloween.

Judging by the pic I think you will have to use longer top rods to make it reach the choke linkage on the rotated carbs. They thread into the lower rod portion from the top, so just unthread the one that is there and use that as a sample to figure out what diameter and thread you need on the new longer choke rods.

I'm very happy to see it looks like you have a "correct" rotator kit minus chokes instead of some PO hack job, that means you got EXTRA value in your purchase instead of getting ripped off =)

Once again I don't know hardly anything about the rotator kits, but it looks like all four carbs are linked to work in unison rather than progressive. For performance and best fuel mileage make sure you vacuum balance the carbs, it really does make a difference.