Well, no pictures transferred.... but the words are here.
Though the price is excellant for all the parts there, there are a few missing items. The cowl water drain piece for under the evaporator, the heat & a/c dash controller with cables, the dash outlets, the compressor brackets (if you are going to use the original compressor), the brackets to hold the condensor off the engine, the solenoid and bracket for the accelerator cross shaft rod, the engine lid shut-off switch, all the associated wiring, the rubber hose screw clamps appear to be standard clamps, instead of being the a/c hose clamps with the little retainer being part of the clamp. A template of the holes one in the trunk wall and cowl area would be a selling point. Those were cut in by roughest method by factory and dealer.
Best condensor install is the one the wall.
This is a good starting point for someone out west.
Clamp.jpg
Clamp.jpg (7.26 KiB) Viewed 82 times
Al Lane
Southeast Georgia
1966 Coupe 110 4 sod
196 More Door 110 PG. FOR SALE
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66vairguy
Posts: 4475
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:44 pm
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Re: LM Air conditioning
Unread post by 66vairguy » Mon Mar 11, 2024 11:53 am
Lane66Monza wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 5:40 am
Though the price is excellant for all the parts there, there are a few missing items. The cowl water drain piece for under the evaporator, the heat & a/c dash controller with cables, the dash outlets, the compressor brackets (if you are going to use the original compressor), the brackets to hold the condensor off the engine, the solenoid and bracket for the accelerator cross shaft rod, the engine lid shut-off switch, all the associated wiring, the rubber hose screw clamps appear to be standard clamps, instead of being the a/c hose clamps with the little retainer being part of the clamp. A template of the holes one in the trunk wall and cowl area would be a selling point. Those were cut in by roughest method by factory and dealer.
Best condensor install is the one the wall.
This is a good starting point for someone out west.
Clamp.jpg
A good eye lane --- The evaporator case has a stud they goes into the bulkhead toward the front of the car. That is often missed during removal and the case is "yanked" out and the stud and bracket breaks off the evap case. I cut the stud off the bracket and weld on a nut and install bolt from the trunk side. It gives you over an inch of additional clearance to get the evap case out and makes install and removal easier.
Clark's sells the bulkhead templates, but CUT SMALL then fit and trim the openings.
The water diverter plate is often missing and when you find them they are often badly rusted.
The trunk mounting bracket for the spare tire (moves from engine to trunk) is often a missing part.
Even when you find the cable controller head the switches usually have to be repaired.
The stock R12 bulkhead condenser isn't the best for R134a. Clark's sells "Rusty's" parallel/serial unit. Fits just like original.
I've got three old R12 bulkhead condensers. Hard to ship so I'll try to bring them to the GWFBT in Palm Springs this Fall.
Yes I've done one LM A/C install and rebuilt/converted another stock unit to R134a
I've got some spare parts I need to sell. If anybody buys these parts drop me a PM and I'll let you know I have.
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Lane66Monza
Posts: 106
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2023 9:01 am
Location: Southeast Georgia
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Re: LM Air conditioning
Unread post by Lane66Monza » Tue Mar 12, 2024 5:49 am
Forgot to mention that the 90 degree engine oil filter adapter isn't there. Got to have that to have filter clear the ac belt. It also needs the short bolt and required gaskets.
If you use the wall condenser, supposedly you don't need the switch to shut off the ac when engine lid is open. But I suspect ac system performance will suffer with air not going through its condenser without any fans. So add fans or the switch.
Going with ac in your car., try to get factory tinted windows and add thermal barrier material on floor, roof, toe board and rear seat wall to keep car cooler. Not much insulation material in a Vair. Engine heater could overheat the car, but ac is limited to its btu output current temperature and how hot the car and exposed steel is when selected on.
Al Lane
Southeast Georgia
1966 Coupe 110 4 sod
196 More Door 110 PG. FOR SALE
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User avatarazdave
Corvair of the Year
Corvair of the Year
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Re: LM Air conditioning
Unread post by azdave » Tue Mar 12, 2024 8:07 am
Lane66Monza wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 5:49 am
If you use the wall condenser, supposedly you don't need the switch to shut off the ac when engine lid is open. But I suspect ac system performance will suffer with air not going through its condenser without any fans. So add fans or the switch.
If you use the 66+ style vertical condenser you do not want the A/C compressor running when the engine lid is open. You'll have zero airflow across the condenser and the refrigerant temps and pressures will rise quickly and can cause damage. That is why they added the tilt switch in all 66 and later A/C systems when the condenser was no longer mounted flat above the engine. No previous years ever used a tilt switch because the engine fan was always able to pull air through the flat mounted condenser whether the deck lid was open or closed.
Another item that makes an A/C system complete is the support bracket installed above the climate controls since you have to cut the dash brace to install the A/C controls. It's also nice to have the special bracket for relocating the windshield washer bottle.
If you want to get really picky, even the blower motor resistors were special on A/C cars. The backer boards for the coils were fiberglass instead of dense paperboard.
Lastly, I need to remember to stop putting so many details into a For Sale post because the whole thread automatically gets deleted after 90 days!
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Dave W. from Gilbert, AZ
66 Corsa 140/4 Yenko Stinger Tribute
66 Corsa 140 Coupe w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5
64 Greenbrier 110/PG, Standard 6-Door
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66vairguy
Posts: 4475
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Re: LM Air conditioning
Unread post by 66vairguy » Tue Mar 12, 2024 10:37 am
Great post by Dave W.
It took a few years of looking for parts, but I got all he mentioned to install a system in one car. Fortunately I had a car with factory A/C to use as a guide. A LOT of parts needed as shown by Dave.
One item not shown is the copper return line from the evaporator that runs INSIDE the car. I went to R134a and the newer "O" ring fitting so I ran BOTH lines as hoses outside the car. I sold the copper lines to a fellow at the GWFBT years ago who wanted a stock set-up.
If you go with R134a then "Rusty's" condenser that Clark's sells is suggested and condenser fans are a must as the engine cooling fan does not flow adequate air at engine idle speeds. With R12 or propane it isn't a big deal as the compressor head pressure won't go nearly as high as R134a will when the condenser isn't adequately cooled.
The other issue is the evaporator expansion valve Clark's sells. It is an off the shelf unit you can order at a parts store. It fits, BUT I've had two of them FAIL within a year of use! Not Clark's problem, just a crappy part. I'm going back to using the Frigidaire original expansion valve. Lasted this long so I'll take my changes with it.
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