New Corvair owner

[xerxes66]

I just bought a '64 Spyder convertible. No top and no carpet, silver w/black interior. Some small rust on a very straight body. Good running engine. It's being delivered later this week to me near Raleigh, NC.
I'm 76 years old and retiring in December. Owned three Corvairs in the 1970's - one was actually a station wagon. Always loved the way they drove. Planned to get another sometime and this one came available.
I'm going to change the color of the car and the interior to this: Body - Azure Aqua Interior & Top - White
A friend in high school got one this color for his graduation in 1964 and I always thought it was one of the most beautiful combinations I have ever seen. Now I'm finally going to get one!
I can do basic mechanical work so I'm going to do the brakes first w/dual MC upgrade. I'm also going to put in a short throw shifter kit and fast ratio steering arms. Everything else will be updated as soon as I can work it out.
Would love some input on this: What do I do first:
Fix small rust and have car painted
Put in new interior
Put on new convertible top (old top was already removed)
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!
Photos to come soon.......
Xerxes66

[66vairguy]

You found a nice car. Your plans sound good.

You didn't mention if you were going to stick with stock tires, or got with a bigger tire and rim. I mention this because the Corvair manual steering is criticized for being slow by today's standards. However ---- a buddy talked me out of going with faster steering until I drove my car with 205/70X14 tires on the front. They aren't that much wider than stock, BUT even with the original slow steering, turning the steering wheel at slow speeds in the city and parking, I found the efforts was high enough that I decided not to go with faster steering which would increase effort. Frankly I do have to wind the wheel more vs. my NEW car, but it isn't that different and part of the "old car charm". Just saying.

If you live out in the country and want the faster response on country roads, or are planning on auto crossing, then fine. If cruising in town you might want to keep the stock steering arms.

[Scott H]

Congrats on the car.

I like your plans for it. Nice color combo.

[Project65]

If you’re planning on having a body shop repair the rust and paint the car, there could be significant lead time prior to the car getting into the shop. Check around if you haven’t already. Mine’s in the shop now and it was about 6 months before it got in. (Had to schedule it in and wait). While in, it’s been 2 months now. The shop may have options or preferences about the state of the rest of the car. (Prep…maybe you remove all the trim, bumpers, chrome, etc…)

Just saying, my car is a rolling shell. No major concerns about dust.

If you’re doing a complete color change, you’re talking jambs and removing the doors, hood, and engine cover, and likely also door handles, locks, trim, tail lights, etc.

My suggestion is paint first, then interior and top afterwards.

[66vairguy]

If you’re planning on having a body shop repair the rust and paint the car, there could be significant lead time prior to the car getting into the shop. Check around if you haven’t already. Mine’s in the shop now and it was about 6 months before it got in. (Had to schedule it in and wait). While in, it’s been 2 months now. The shop may have options or preferences about the state of the rest of the car. (Prep…maybe you remove all the trim, bumpers, chrome, etc…)

Just saying, my car is a rolling shell. No major concerns about dust.

If you’re doing a complete color change, you’re talking jambs and removing the doors, hood, and engine cover, and likely also door handles, locks, trim, tail lights, etc.

My suggestion is paint first, then interior and top afterwards.

If the car goes to a shop for body work I AGREE. The dust will get into everything!!

[xerxes66]

Thanks for all the input. Fortunately for me the rust is minimal and I'm going to try to do most of the repairs myself, at least on the initial sanding and bondo work. I think I can do it and, if not, there's always the body shop. I thought I'd get an estimate before I did any of the work myself.
On a different topic, I'm doing the brakes next weekend and I have a couple of questions:
The brakes are 9" - what is the minimum inside diameter of the brake drum allowed after turning?
Which shoe goes towards the front of the car? The one with the longer lining?
I called around and found only ONE parts house that turned drums and they want $ 25.00 each. The man I spoke to said he would need some type of GM specifications to know how much to take off as his information doesn't go back that far. I asked one brake shop what they did when the rear drums were scored and he said " We just install new drums".
Thanks in advance for any assistance!

[66vairguy]

Thanks for all the input. Fortunately for me the rust is minimal and I'm going to try to do most of the repairs myself, at least on the initial sanding and bondo work. I think I can do it and, if not, there's always the body shop. I thought I'd get an estimate before I did any of the work myself.
On a different topic, I'm doing the brakes next weekend and I have a couple of questions:
The brakes are 9" - what is the minimum inside diameter of the brake drum allowed after turning?
Which shoe goes towards the front of the car? The one with the longer lining?
I called around and found only ONE parts house that turned drums and they want $ 25.00 each. The man I spoke to said he would need some type of GM specifications to know how much to take off as his information doesn't go back that far. I asked one brake shop what they did when the rear drums were scored and he said " We just install new drums".
Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Regarding where the longer lining goes: BOB--- Big On Back side (toward the rear of the car) regardless of which side of the car you are on.

The Shop Manual Specification says the brake drum shoe contact diameter cannot exceed 9.560" for safety reasons.

BTW - if you don't arc the shoe material to fit the drum arc (diameter) the brake shoe contact can be reduced CONSIDERABLY and will take thousands of miles to wear in during which time you will have LOUSY brakes. I've been down this road a few times (yes pun intended ). After I have the shoes arc'd to the drum the brakes work much better. Unfortunately it is now difficult to find a shop that can arc brake shoe linings. Usually a place that actually relines you brake shoes. For some odd reason the "auto parts stores" seem to sell brake shoes that are too thick compared to original. The old "close enough for a low demand product".

If the drum brake contact area is not out of round, and there is no rust or grooves, just dressing up the brake surface with rough sand paper works. fine.