I'm in need of some help

[ObstructGenius]

I was able to get one of my dads friends to let us use his car lift, and my dad and I replaced the gas tank, fuel sender unit, and replaced the rubber hosing I could. we found that my transmission has a leak and it is leaking from what appears to be the speedometer cable where it is exposed underneath the engine compartment. is there a seal of some sort that may have gone bad? Also, it seems like every time the car gets warmed up, it begins to vapor lock or not get enough fuel consumption, even though we are using a 4-9psi electric fuel pump which is located in the engine compartment(creating a pressurized vacuum) and we put a clear fuel filter so we can see how bad the fuel is, and it gets very little fuel and bubbles it looks like before it even reaches the carbs.We don't have the mechanical pump working right now but rerouted it for the electric pump only. Is that a bad idea for now until I can get the mechanical pump? I was looking on other forums and my carbs don't have the plastic spacer under the carbs, but I don't think that's creating the problem. I am running a 61 corvair 900 Monza, carbs are rebuilt, and I took the underpanels off and it doesn't appear to have any gas leaking from the piping. Should I put the fuel pump near the tank so it pushes the gas rather than vacuuming it?

[ObstructGenius]

Here's some pictures of the speedometer leaking.

[bbodie52]

My understanding is that electric fuel pumps push fuel pretty well, but don't do a very good job of sucking the fuel long distances. If you intend to continue using an electric fuel pump, it might perform better if it is installed near the fuel tank outlet, an in a location where it is protected. It should also be controlled by an electrical safety interlock switch that will only apply power to the pump when the engine is being cranked, or when there is oil pressure present. Also, a pinhole leak or larger in the fuel line between the tank and the engine compartment can cause problems. It can disrupt the suction in th eline that draws the fule to the pump in the engine compartment (electric or mechanical). If your electric pump is relocated to a location near the tank, a leaky fuel line could create a fire hazard, since the electric pump would be pressurizing the entire length of the fuel line. A blockage in the line between the tank and the engine compartment could also disrupt fuel flow volume. You should check both fuel pressure AND fuel delivery volume, following the procedures in the shop manual.



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-a68301

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-7872-Sa ... ety+switch

The mechanical fuel pump is cheaper than the electric pump, safety switches, etc. I have had Corvairs in my family since my parents bought their first new Corvair... a brand new 1961 Monza coupe (I was eight years old). At age 62 I still drive a Corvair, and over the years we have had ten Corvairs in our family. I have yet to have a mechanical pump fail. They are easy to replace in a roadside repair, and they are cheap enough so that a spare pump could be kept as part of an emergency spares kit — along with some hand tools and a shop manual — in the trunk. The mechanical pumps have been running in millions of Corvairs for decades with good reliability. You may want to consider abandoning the electric pump and returning to a mechanical pump.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=65



Part number C3403: NON-GM FUEL PUMP-62-69 WILL FIT 60-61 IF ORDER C259 ROD

Weight: 2 lbs 4 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 65
Price:
1 - 1 $ 59.10
2+ $ 57.35

PLEASE NOTE THE INFORMATION ABOVE ABOUT THE PUSH ROD FOUND IN 1960-1961 CORVAIRS. THE PUMP DESIGN AND PUSH ROD WAS MODIFIED IN 1962. IF YOUR 1961 CORVAIR HAPPENS TO STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL PUSH ROD, YOU WOULD NEED TO ORDER A REPLACEMENT TO MATCH THE NEW MECHANICAL PUMP.



There are supposed to be insulators between each carburetor base and the hot aluminum cylinder head intake manifold. These insulators and associated gaskets are shown in the illustration below. Occasionally these insulators are omitted following a carburetor overhaul. The gaskets may be included with a carburetor rebuild kit, but the thick insulators are not usually included. The old insulators may crack and break when removed, and some people choose to install the carburetors with a base gasket only. Doing so will permit heat from the cylinder head to heat the aluminum carburetor, and can actually cause fuel in the float bowl and fuel passages inside the carburetor to boil and to vaporize, which can result in a stalled or unstable hot engine.



http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=56

Part number C506: CARB BASE INSULATOR-THICK "PLASTIC" WE SUGGEST 2 "PAPER" GKTS (C506H) WITH THESE

Weight: 0 lbs 2 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 56(35),U,8(35)
Price:
1 - 3 $ 5.35
4 - 9 $ 5.10
10 - 49 $ 4.95

[greatscott73]

On the leaky speedo cable: the housing holding the speedo gear in the trans uses an o-ring to seal it. Just remove the one bolt holding it to the trans case, and pull it out of the trans. The o-ring will be readily visible.

[Wagon Master]

Here's my take on your speedometer cable leak. Your looking at the Powerglide transmission shifter cable. This area is also well known for leaking. If your dealing with a 60-64 model year car your speedometer cable would enter the rear axle at a right angle just beside the left axle shaft.

[ObstructGenius]

Will and heat resistant O-ring that fits do, or should I order the ring from Clarks corvair, and if I should do you know where to find it? I'll start looking into getting the mechanical pump and the plastic spacers hopefully soon

[terribleted]

Your Shift Cable leak (not speedo cable) can be the o-ring where it seats to the transmission or a leak in the cable itself. The cable is fluid lubricated an breaks in the plastic jacket or where the plastic jacket hits the metal end are common. Repair is get a new o-ring from Clarks and follow the shop manual procedures for removal and re-install of the trans end of the cable (If you have no proper shop manual purchase one from Clarks along with your o-ring). There is a specific procedure to doing this that if not followed the shifter will end up out of synch and gears will not be selected properly after re-install. If the cable itself is leaking best solution is replacement with a New GM Cable, second best is Replacement with a reproduction cable, third best is finding a way to seal the leaking existing cable. I have seen different tapes and sealants used with varying degrees of success. The hard part is getting the cable end out and clean and degreased enough for any such repair to stick to it. Generally this is a partial or temporary repair at best. I always replace a leaking cable.

[66vairguy]

Brad is correct about the location of the fuel pump. Also you want the pump lower than the gas tank so it will self prime - it will last much longer.

Also ---- The 4-9PSI fuel pump is INCORRECT. The PSI rating should be 2-4 or 2-5 PSI. The maximum number is the one that counts, the lower number is a maximum flow rating pressure and you will NEVER see that low pressure unless you have a major fuel leak. The Corvair carburetor is rated at 4-5 PSI and 9 PSI will cause it to malfunction. BTW - this is a common mistake folks make. Both AirTex and Facet make the lower pressure fuel pump and it's been posted here before. I'll bet Brad has the numbers handy. If not I can find them later.

DO NOT USE A CLEAR PLASTIC FUEL FILTER. They are prone to impact damage and will melt if they get hot!! Metal canister fuel filters are available.

[bbodie52]

http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php

The attachment Facet-Purolator Fuel Pump - Cube Flyer 2011.pdf is no longer available

The factory shop manuals (copies attached) specify 4-5 psi and a fuel delivery volume of 1 pint in 40 seconds or less. The current pump you have, if it is functioning, will overwhelm the ability of the needle and seat assemblies in the carburetors to stop the flow. Flooding and a potential fire hazard could result. And if you don't have a safety interlock switch installed to shut down the pump if the engine stalls, the hazard increases.

==========================================================================================

According to the FACET pump website, part number 40105 is rated with 3-4.5 psi, which would be appropriate with Corvair carburetors. I had a little difficulty finding this pump online, but here is a vendor that carries it...


https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... RecID=8440



PART NO: FAC-40105 PRICE: $46.99 In Stock

Facet Cube Style 12 Volt Fuel Pump, 3 to 4.5 max psi

Maximum fuel delivery 30 gallons per hour at free-flow. Maximum pressure 3 to 4.5 psi. Typical flow 15 gph at 2 psi. 1/8 NPT female ports. Ground wire allows easy installation in positive-ground applications (most Facet pumps ground through the pump body). This pump has no internal check valve or anti-siphon valve, so fuel can flow through the pump in either direction when it is turned off. Maximum 12 inch vertical dry lift capability.

For low fuel requirements on engines up to about 150 horsepower, a single Solid State pump such as this one is usually sufficient. Pumps can be combined in series or parallel to achieve higher pressures or flows. We also offer several other models with different flow rates and pressures for engines up to about 150 horsepower. Facet fuel pumps have low power requirements (about 1 amp at 12 volts) and operate without troublesome seals or diaphragms.

If you decide to go back to a mechanical pump, here is the information from Clark's Corvair Parts. It is generally more economical to consolidate all of your current needs into a single order to save on shipping charges, instead of placing numerous small orders. If you need seals, gaskets, tune-up parts, filters, etc. it is better to place a single bulk order. Consider buying consumables, such as oil filters, to cover your needs for a year.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=65


Part number C3403: NON-GM FUEL PUMP-62-69 WILL FIT 60-61 IF ORDER C259 ROD

Weight: 2 lbs 4 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 65
Price:
1 - 1 $ 59.10
2+ $ 57.35

Here is a link at the Clark's website that covers your Powerglide transmission cable, seal, etc. Corvair automatic transmissions have a good reputation for reliability, AS LONG AS THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL IS PROPERLY MAINTAINED! Too much or too lottle fluid can shorten the life of the transmission considerably. If a leak develops, it should be corrected quickly to prevent the fluid level from dropping and to protect the condition of the transmission.

This section of the Corvair Forum will provide you with a lot of technical material covering the Powerglide transmission. If you decide to replace the shift control cable, the instructions for properly removing and replacing the cable can be found here...

CORVAIR POWERGLIDE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SERVICE GUIDE

viewtopic.php?f=225&t=5760

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=135

[ObstructGenius]

i checked the o-ring for the shifter cable, and it isn't coming from the seal, the fluid is coming from the cable itself. is that normal? And do I need to replace the shifter cable?

[ObstructGenius]

I got and installed a new cable, and checked it by dropping the oil pan, and it is installed correctly. I now have a new issue. My low gear is drive, my drive gear is neutral, and my neutral gear is reverse. the cable is installed correctly but seems to not work properly. Is there a way to adjust this or no?

[terribleted]

The cable is not installed correctly. Re-read the shop manual instructions and try again. Gear selector not in the correct position at the dash when installing or shift lever at the trans not held in the right position while inserting the cable. This problem is the symptom of an improperly seated cable.

Paraphasing from the manual
Range selector in D. With throttle rods disconnected from the lever on the transmission (both rods off)
rotate the lever fully counterclockwise and insert the ball end of the cable into the trans. Tighten nut to 8-10 foot pounds only. Correctness is easy to check....once in place and tight...exert slight hand pressure on lever in the counterclockwise direction...
and check that the hole that accepts the throttle rod up to the carbs is below the trans pan gasket. If the hole is above the gasket the install is faulty. (the little ball must slip into the notch in the internal TV linkage properly and can easily miss...it is not to unusual to have to try this insertion twice). A badly mal-adjusted TV lever (must be done with pan and cable removed) can make it hard to properly install the cable and will make for a poorly timed shift schedule as well. There is a special simple tool for adjusting the TV lever if it has been knocked out of adjustment. The procedure is in the shop manual and vendors like Clark's have a suitable tool.

[funvairs]

As Ted stated you may have to install the cable more than once to get it right. This image shows the TV lever when the cable instaallation is correct.

Capture.JPG (18.65 KiB) Viewed 1568 times

[terribleted]

As Ted stated you may have to install the cable more than once to get it right. This image shows the TV lever when the cable instaallation is correct.

Capture.JPG

Thanks funvairs The exact diagram I was looking at last night but no simple way to scan and post it.

[funvairs]

Ted
I used the Windows "snippng tool", saved it to my drive, and in the post, uploaded an attachment

[ObstructGenius]

The cable is seated in the correct place, or I think is is, and the TV lever goes below the pan. The problem is still there, any ideas what is wrong? this is what the cable looks like when installed