Goes backward not Forward?

[Racerdoc]

Getting my 66 Monza on the road....

Power pack is back in (all seals re-done), engine runs fine, new exhaust sounds great, brakes are bled, new bushings in the rear, new springs and shocks in the rear, swapped out the factory 3spd with a 4spd, new clutch......

Backed out of the garage, rolled off the driveway and onto the street, put it in 1st...... and no go (E-brake not connected yet). Tried all the gears., no grinding, clunking sounded smooth... feels like its binding somewhere..... kept trying to rock it loose till I smelled clutch.....

Anyone?

[64powerglide]

I put a 1956 Dodge Hemi engine in a 1940 Ford sedan with an adaptor connected to a 1937 Ford trans & had the same problem. 11 inch clutch pressure plate was hitting inside the bell housing. Don't know if the 3 speed & 4 speed need different bell housings or not. You didn't say if you used reverse or just coasted back but I assumed you just rolled out into the street. If reverse works then it must be something with the shifting forks.

[Racerdoc]

Drove in reverse, out of the garage, under engine power. Reverse works, forward motion binds????

[Jerry Whitt]

You noted swap in 4 speed for the 3 speed.

That the car backs up tells us the clutch and reverse works.

Reverse shifter position in a 3 speed and in a 4 speed shift pattern are fairly close, only a detent away.

Suspiciion lies in the shift linkage. Did you change the shift linkage on the floor to match the four speed trans?

[64powerglide]

It's like reverse didn't disengage when you were trying to go forward.

[Racerdoc]

The reverse disengaged and car went into a forward gear because I was able to inch the car forward a bit.... I stopped because the clutch was heating up .....

[91blaze]

Sounds like the gears are binding up because something is not engaging correctly. Either the linkage is not correctly adjusted or something is wrong inside.

[Racerdoc]

Linkage seems to be ok.

All the gears work when the back wheels are off the ground. When I lower the car back down it will go 2 to 3 feet forward and them bind again.

My plan is to unbolt and re-bolt all the rear end parts.....

[64powerglide]

Probably that wrench you left in the bell housing.

[Racerdoc]

You know..... I actually checked to see if my toolbox was missing any wrenches or sockets.....

[Racerdoc]

I am back in the garage and working on finally solving this wheel lock underload problem.

Still at a loss, I was planning on disconnecting the rear strut rod from the transaxle to see if that has any affect. Can I roll the car without the rods connected or will that cause damage to other components. I don't plan on driving it that way just trying to see if this affects the transaxle at all.

What do you guys think?

[cad-kid]

If you remove the rods that connect the transmission to the lower suspension - the rear wheels will skoot to the outside (top of tire tipping in, bottom jutting out. And they will massively tow in.

You could remove a drive shaft (one or both) and see if the trans will bind in the forward gears. It's not too bad to pull both drive shafts for a test.

[bbodie52]

Getting my 66 Monza on the road....

Power pack is back in (all seals re-done), engine runs fine, new exhaust sounds great, brakes are bled, new bushings in the rear, new springs and shocks in the rear, swapped out the factory 3spd with a 4spd, new clutch......

Backed out of the garage, rolled off the driveway and onto the street, put it in 1st...... and no go (E-brake not connected yet). Tried all the gears., no grinding, clunking sounded smooth... feels like its binding somewhere..... kept trying to rock it loose till I smelled clutch.....

Just a wild thought... Your original car and transaxle was a 1966 3-speed unit. As far as I can tell you installed a 1965 4-speed transaxle. Is there any chance you used the wrong input shaft between the clutch and the new transaxle? Both use 14 spline shafts, but the original 1966 3-speed transmission shaft was 24-3/8" in length, while the new 1965 4-speed transaxle uses an input shaft that is a little shorter — 23-1/4". If you accidentally inserted the input shaft from the 1966 transaxle, it would be 1-1/8" too long. I'm not sure if that would have been noticeable as you were tightening the transaxle to the engine clutch housing, or if it would have even been possible to fully mate the clutch housing to the differential under such circumstances.

[azdave]

There are two threads going right now on the same topic by the same author.

For less confusion, let's stop dicussing the problem here and continue trouble shooting in his other thread.
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