Engine Cranks Slowly

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eForce
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Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:33 am

I really need your help; here.

After fixing my knocking by pulling motor and replacing head, I married the PG to the engine and tested it on the ground. It turned over extremely slow but I did get it to fire so I installed everything back in the car. It turns over so slowly that it completely drains a fully charged battery but I did get it running. It seemed to run smoothly but I noticed that the wheels were turning so it must be in gear.

Upon applying the brakes, the engine stalled so I believe the torque converter is locked up. Fluid level was low but I topped it up. I'm not sure if it's locked up or if it's actually in gear. The fact that the engine stalled tells me that it's locked up.

Do I need to pull the motor again?

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Steve62
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by Steve62 » Sun Sep 18, 2016 2:32 pm

Remove the bolts securing the converter to the flexplate, and see if it turns easily.
Could be better, could be worse...could be riding in a hearse!

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:12 pm

ok, so it was definitely my torque converter installation. Removed and reinstalled. Turns over great and runs great but my wheels still turn.

It seems to be stuck in gear. Drive, neutral reverse....wheels go forward. Is there something I did wrong with the shift cable? I red in here that you must have it in drive on installation.

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Mon Oct 03, 2016 5:06 pm

with selector in D and rotating lever CCW, the cable won't go in. I've pulled the pan to see what's going on but hard to see. There's a lever that looks like the ball goes in but I can't line it up.

Any ideas?

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terribleted
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by terribleted » Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:17 pm

eForce wrote:with selector in D and rotating lever CCW, the cable won't go in. I've pulled the pan to see what's going on but hard to see. There's a lever that looks like the ball goes in but I can't line it up.

Any ideas?
Do you have the throttle rods disconnected from the trans lever while you are trying to install the cable? They can keep it from rotating far enough. You must rotate the lever CCW all the way thru the detent (you can feel this at the end of the rotation). Then insert the cable and allow the cable to push the lever back CW as the cable mount seats so you can install your bolt. Once the cable bolt is installed rotate the lever CCW again. The hole in the lever that the carb rod goes into should be 3/8 +- 1/16" below the trans pan mounting surface. If it is not remove the cable and try again as the installation is faulty (per the shop manual).
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
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Located in Snellville, Georgia

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:37 am

Yes I did but when I turned it CCW again, it pushed the shift lever into Rev. I should note, when I lowered the motor, although I removed the cable bolt, the cable was still inside and bent the cable. Hope I didn't wreck anything else.

I did get a new cable.

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terribleted
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by terribleted » Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:54 am

Sounds like the install was faulty when you went CCW and it shoved the selector to reverse. The ball was likely forward of rather than in the fork it engages. Lever should rotate easily to the full CCW position with hole just under pan flange. You should not have to push it hard enough to move the range selector.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:56 pm

I got it. the shifter had to be in neutral. Rotated CCW, pushed in cable, bolted it and when I rated CCW again, it went clunk and voila.

Thank you so much.

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terribleted
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by terribleted » Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:49 pm

Something is off the shifter should be in drive to install the cable. Is the pointer in the right places? Can you select 1st gear? If everything works and indicates ok, I would leave it alone. If not the next step would be a TV lever adjustment per the shop manual. Requires an available special tool (not expensive ...Clark's sells one. I had issues once with a repro cable that was a bit off and had to tinker things a little for best performance.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:39 pm

Ya, I have every gear. BUT....my accelerator pedal is funny. Not much travel. 2nd, I can't seem to figure out if the accelerator rod goes on the outside or inside. Seems to catch on lever. Got a pic of a working setup? The carb to linkage has to go in from inside. That's obvious.

Perhaps, I'll disconnect shifter and redo it in drive.

funvairs
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by funvairs » Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:20 am

From the out side.
Chris Brown

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CORSA
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Corvanatics
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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:23 pm

ya, so that was it. Reinstalled with it in drive. Fixed.

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terribleted
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by terribleted » Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:13 pm

Yup they have to be in drive in order to correctly install the cable.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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eForce
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Rebuild saga

Unread post by eForce » Sun Oct 09, 2016 4:41 am

Lastly. regarding the accelerator rod linkage...if I connect it from the outside, the rod gets stuck on the rod that goes up to the carbs so I connected it from the inside. Anyone have a pic of a proper setup?

Aarrgghhh! After all that, went to go for a drive cause it runs great but noticed tons of smoke. It's dripping out of the tubes in the head onto the manifold. Serves me right for not replacing O rings. I assume I can replace those without removing the head. I think the tubes will slide out after removing rocker and stud bolts.

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cnicol
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by cnicol » Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:31 am

Yes, the push rod tubes are "easily" removed once the rocker studs and guide plate are off. If you change the o-rings one cylinder at a time (and retorque studs), it's very unlikely you'll have any trouble with head gaskets later on down the road. When you're ready to start popping tubes out, let us know and we will inundate you with tips on how to remove those soft-metal tubes without damage. (there are multiple, easy ways)
'61 140 PG Rampside
'66 Rear Alum V8 4-dr
'60 Monza PG coupe (sold, sniff, sniff)
'66 Corsa Fitch Sprint Conv. (First car 1971, recently repurchased)

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eForce
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Re: Engine Cranks Slowly

Unread post by eForce » Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:34 am

Ok thanks. I'll wait till next week when I'm on holidays. Need a break from it


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