1966 Turbo needs your help!

[Francesco]

Hey guys,
First, I wanna thank you for all the help you've supplied since I got my car. Okay so fast-forward to today. The car is a turbo engine. 1966. Car has low compression on one cylinder, however going to sort that out once the car is running decent, because it still has compression. Okay, so First problem: When priming the fuel pump, or cranking the engine, the carb leaks gas out the air filter side. Engine won't start unless under near full throttle, and backfires repeatedly at low RPM, high it doesn't happen. I have not timed the engine yet, because I can not get it to idle. Haven't done a warm valve adjustment due to that either. For this, I'm hoping the carb is just stuck and flooding the cylinders. Does anyone have advice on how to fix my problem? This probably won't be my only question so I figured instead of a bunch of threads I would just do one big one.
Thanks,
Francesco

[cad-kid]

If you are going to tackly the carb yourself instead of getting a rebuilt one - I suggest Bob Helt's book on that carb. Fix your flooding problem first.

[bbodie52]

I was thinking exactly the same thing. Here are the details on the book you will need...

Here is a link to the book on Carter YH carburetors listed on Amazon.com. The eight consumer reviews on Amazon.com all gave it 5 Star/Excellent ratings. $22.50
http://www.amazon.com/Identify-Rebuild- ... 1426928343
How to Identify and Rebuild Carter YH Carburetors Used on Corvair Turbocharged Engines
by Bob Helt (Author)


The Carter YH carburetor is something of a temperamental beast with a not-so-good reputation. This book may put you on the road to recovery.

[Francesco]

To those who replied - sorry I didn't make it clear, but the carb was rebuilt by the carbmeister. I just didn't want to send the carb back to florida to get a potentially easy fix repaired. I was hoping to see if I could do it myself at home, and was looking for some guidance in that situation.

[Francesco]

If you are going to tackly the carb yourself instead of getting a rebuilt one - I suggest Bob Helt's book on that carb. Fix your flooding problem first.

I am not sure it is flooding, but I have been told that is likely the problem. I'm just trying to diagnose the problem and to find out if it's something that can be done easily, or if its just worth it to send it back.

[bbodie52]

To those who replied - sorry I didn't make it clear, but the carb was rebuilt by the carbmeister. I just didn't want to send the carb back to florida to get a potentially easy fix repaired. I was hoping to see if I could do it myself at home, and was looking for some guidance in that situation.

I've heard both sides of people having good and bad experiences with the Carbmeister.

Grant (the Carbmeister) Young is an upstanding guy who stands behind his work. Any issues he immediately takes care of (he once Fedexed me a spare carb to use while I sent one of his back for a checkover... just knowing I was having some issues and before I'd even completely checked it out. Turned out to be my fault and not his to start with.)

If you are frustrated with reading the "fine print" and disclaimers in auctions about parts such as "no refunds, sold as is, no warranty, not responsible for anything after you buy it", then you have found the right auction. This is a very hard to find Premium Rebuilt Carter YH Side Draft Carburetor for 1965 and 1966 Corvair turbocharged 180 HP Corsa engines that is rebuilt by the best and largest Corvair carburetor rebuilder in the world - Wolf Enterprises. Wolf carbs are on some of the most rare and famous Corvairs anywhere, as well as on thousands of dependable "daily drivers". The individual attention and highest possible quality is the same regardless of how the car is used. The winning bidder also gets Flat Rate Insured Priority Mail anywhere in the USA. The carb is recolored in OEM style semi-gloss black carburetor paint and sealed with a high quality clear engine enamel. But, I only have two of these left. Cores are getting very hard to find.

The best available new gaskets, seals, inlet seat/needle, pump springs, and accelerator pump are used to bring it to good as new condition and make it ethanol resistant. The throttle shaft is replaced with a new one to eliminate one of the major problems with old carbs of this vintage (surge, flat spots, wandering idle, lean operation, etc.). You will also get a new main metering jet and polished stainless steel fasteners for the bowl cover. Each carb is tested and set to specifications with the correct metering rod for your engine. I rebuild about 50-60 of these particular carbs each year (and I really did help with the book written on how to rebuild them - and all of the examples and pictures in it are my carbs), so you can be confident that it will be right. The auction photo is a representative sample of an actual ebay unit with the exception that yours will have a stainless steel screw to secure the throttle lever to the shaft. These 180 HP carbs can also be used on earlier engines (but have a larger venturi than the original Spyder 150 HP carbs). Your rebuildable core can be traded in for a $100 discount if it is the same year or for a $50 discount if it is 1962-1964, or you can deduct that from the bid price if you want to send it in advance or prefer that I rebuild your original carburetor. Please write with any questions and include your email as I am not allowed to list mine here or in direct ebay replies. I do not post your personal questions on ebay, so feel free to ask anything. Shipping is usually 1-2 days after receipt of your payment or core. And, it is unconditionally guaranteed to work like it should, no questions asked.

It sounds like Grant Young has a decent reputation and wants to keep things right to maintain a good reputation. I would suggest sending him an email that carefully describes all of your symptoms. The Carbmeister rebuilt Carter YH carbs list for $325 on eBay, and that premium comes with a warranty. His interpretation of the symptoms you are experiencing should mean a lot, so I would suggest putting your questions directly to him.

Email: GYoungwolf@aol.com

[Francesco]

It sounds like Grant Young has a decent reputation and wants to keep things right to maintain a good reputation. I would suggest sending him an email that carefully describes all of your symptoms. The Carbmeister rebuilt Carter YH carbs list for $325 on eBay, and that premium comes with a warranty. His interpretation of the symptoms you are experiencing should mean a lot, so I would suggest putting your questions directly to him.[/color][/i]

Email: GYoungwolf@aol.com

He did say I could send the carburetor back and he would fix it - free postage and everything, but I am trying to save the time of sending it across the US and back, and just attempting to fix a problem that may be simple at home. If it is too complicated, I can always send it back, however I would like to fix it to save both me and the carbmeister a headache, if possible. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem, and how to fix it?
Thanks

[cad-kid]

YH carbs can be touchy from what I have heard. But then again everything can be until you get the experience

Flooding can be caused by foreign material holding the needle and seat open. The float could be stuck as well.

Good luck.

[Francesco]

Does anyone have a diagram of the carburetor, or would it be wise to order that book?

[Dove]

Bob Helts book is excellent very comprehensive with great pictures of the carb as he disassembles, rebuilds and installs the YH carb.

Here's a chapter list:

1 Identifing Carburators
2 How Carburators Work
3 Carburator Problems
4 Taking the Carburator Apart
5 Cleaning the Carburator
6 Correcting Problems
7 Modifications
8 Ordering Gaskets and Parts
9 Assembling the Carburator
10 Making Initial Adjustments
11 Installing the Carburator

Worth every penny in my opionion.

[Scott V]

too much fuel pressure can cause flooding.

feed the carb from a little can a couple feet above the carb. see if the engine runs. if theres no gas dripping out of the aircleaner side - you have a fuel pressure problem. maybe the fuel pump putting out too much pressure or the fuel return line is plugged.

-Scott V.

[64powerglide]

I don't know anything about the YH carbs but this link says the YH was used on early Corvette's, I don't know if this carb is the same as the Corvair but they are both a Carter YH. Have a look & see if you can figure something out.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/93828610/Carter-YH-Manual" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[notched]

If fuel is pouring out of the air inlet then the float level is either too high OR it is flooding due to high fuel pressure. You did not mention how old or new the fuel pump is, but I will say that if is one of the newer ones like Clark's sells then I can guarantee that the pressure is too high. Mine was making 8psi which is way too high. The general consensus is that a turbo Corvair using the YH only needs 2 psi. You really need to verify the fuel pressure which you can do with a cheap fuel pressure gauge as sold by Summit Racing or Jegs and a brass tee up at the carb inlet OR the fuel pump outlet. To adjust the pressure you can either install a Holley fuel pressure regulator or do what many of us do; open the fuel pump trim the fuel pump spring on top of the diaphragm. I trimmed mine, but the pressure was still too high, so I heated it to collapse it a tad and that has been working fine for a long time now. The other option is to find an original GM pump and grab the spring out of it and put it into the new one. That will sometimes put you in the ball park.
Now that you have fouled the plugs you will have a very hard time getting them to fire. I recommend replacing them. I also suggest doing what Scott recommended OR even filling the float bowl with fuel and disconnecting the fuel pump so that you cam eliminate the pressure on it. With fuel in the float bowl it should run. Once it runs, then check and rectify the fuel pressure.

[flat6_musik]

And as was mentioned about the return line, I think it's important on a turbo car to actually blow out the return line (with the gas cap off). I had the exact same problem you had! Bought a Wolfie carb and had it dribbling out the airhorn! I thought I was gonna go insane......I rigged up one of those dial-a-pressure chrome fuel pressure regulators with an electric pump, just to pinpoint that it WAS an excessive fuel pressure problem. Then I just blew shop air into the fuel return line to the tank and heard a faint "pop"........again, with the gas cap off, of course. You've also got to check all of your fuel line TEES above the tank. The turbo cars have that annoying-to-change TEE right above the tank. You're gonna LOVE changing that one.......LOL.

And....BTW.....the reproduction rubber TEE that I bought was a piece of ****. Here's mine that rotted out in about a year. I went and made up one out of brass.

[Francesco]

And as was mentioned about the return line, I think it's important on a turbo car to actually blow out the return line (with the gas cap off). I had the exact same problem you had! Bought a Wolfie carb and had it dribbling out the airhorn! I thought I was gonna go insane......I rigged up one of those dial-a-pressure chrome fuel pressure regulators with an electric pump, just to pinpoint that it WAS an excessive fuel pressure problem. Then I just blew shop air into the fuel return line to the tank and heard a faint "pop"........again, with the gas cap off, of course. You've also got to check all of your fuel line TEES above the tank. The turbo cars have that annoying-to-change TEE right above the tank. You're gonna LOVE changing that one.......LOL.

The sad part is, I haven't bent mine yet.. I was putting it off for some reason, but I guess it's time to bend some line and stick in that tee!! Is it worth it to just buy a brass one instead of using the one clarks gave me? I know california corvair sells a brass one.

[flat6_musik]

I wouldn't run the rubber one again, that's for sure. Changing that sucker, to me, is a one-time job. I wasn't a happy camper having to drop my tank twice in 2 years. I just trimmed a little off my hard line to run my brass one......maybe California Corvairs' one is more easily fit and trimming isn't needed. I just got mad and went to the hardware store. :D