Pitman Arm Bushing TOO TIGHT!

[mattsmithalamode]

So I have a question. On my '63 Monza 900, I replaced the stock bushing with a nylon one from Clark's. I got the new bolt and everything. It was truly a bear to press in. It took me days. At first, the steering was tight. With a loud popping sound when I turn the wheel. Sometimes it would stick right or stick left. That was six months ago. I drove the car many many miles, and, over time, the steering loosened up. It was normal. Well, I was under the car today doing other stuff when I noticed that the cotter pin was missing. Not only that, but the castle nut on top of the pitman arm could be loosened by hand.


This scared me. After a few quick turns with my fingers, it was off. Imagine if it would have come apart while I was on the highway!


So I bought a new castle nut and cotter pin. When the castle nut was tight, the holes weren't lined up enough to get the cotter pin through. I torqued on the nut a lot and got the cotter pin through.


But now, super tight steering again. And popping when I turn. It's good that the steering isn't coming apart. But what am I doing wrong? I've read that some of these bushings have to be shortened. Is that true?


Thanks!

Matt

[bbodie52]

Have you considered calling Clark's and consulting with them? They have sold these for a long time and have both experience and a well-deserved good reputation with customer relations. I would discuss this with them, since this IS a safety issue and something is very wrong with this installation.

[davemotohead]

There were different replacement bushings used through out the years,,some of the replacement bushings had a thicker Steel shell than the stock GM ones and the nylon bushings do not fit into those after market/other brand bushing shells like they do in a stock shell,,I have had to sand down the bushing and run a brake hone thru the thicker shells to get the bushing to fit properly,the bushings should be a tight fit when installed properly and do wear in with use,,but the thick shell problem the bushing will not fit correctly at all, I make my own bushings made of nylatron that I preffer better than nylon and have installed lots of them with no problems,BUT! I
Had that problem with one of my cars and I made a video of what I did when I ran into the same problem on my car!

[bbodie52]

Thanks for the explanation and the video! I will certainly remember this when it comes time to change my Pitman arm bushing. But getting back to the original question, I was wondering how he is going to "get well" at this point? Is it possible that the nylon bushing that he purchased and forced into place has been damaged to the point where it is no longer usable? I suppose if the nylon bushing appears to have been damaged or crushed to the point where it is too tight on the existing bolt, it may be necessary to remove the original nylon bushing and try again with another new one. However, the old shell may need to be modified and the new bushing may also need to be modified as you described in your video. It may also be that the old bolt design may be too thick, and the center hole may have to be enlarged. Or, the entire assembly could be ordered (at the higher cost) and the entire assembly (bushing, bolt, and shall) could be replaced. But if that approach is taken, the Clark's catalog indicates that it is necessary to remove the drag link from the car for proper installation. I guess no matter how you approach it, replacing the Pitman arm bushing in a Corvair is no real fun!


I noticed that Clark's Corvair Parts offers a disclaimer in their catalog:

NOTE: Do to various shells and bolts sold over the years, WE SUGGEST THE WHOLE UNIT (C178 or C178N), but the nylon bushing may work with your unit.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=156


Part number C178: 60-69 PITMAN ARM BUSHING-COMPLETE ORIG RUBBER,BOLT & SLEEVE, NEW NUT=C726

Weight: 0 lbs 12 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 156(4),OT-42
Price:
1 - 2 $ 23.45
3+ $ 22.30

Part number C178N: 60-69 NYLON PITMAN ARM BUSHING COMPLETE WITH SLEEVE. NEW NUT= C726

Weight: 0 lbs 12 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 156(4),OT-42
Price:
1 - 2 $ 28.00
3+ $ 25.80

Part number C178NB: PITMAN ARM NYLON BUSHING ONLY-(MAY NOT FIT ALL OLD UNITS)SUGGEST COMPLETE UNIT-C178N

Weight: 0 lbs 4 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 156(4)
Price:
1 - 2 $ 7.95
3+ $ 7.15

[terribleted]

I have also found that clearancing the bushing is sometimes encessary when installing a nylon one. I have used fine sticky backed sandpaper on a deep socket in an air rachet before to slightly enlarge the hole. I have also sanded them shorter.

[MonzaDave]

I have also found that clearancing the bushing is sometimes encessary when installing a nylon one. I have used fine sticky backed sandpaper on a deep socket in an air rachet before to slightly enlarge the hole. I have also sanded them shorter.

+1 on the clearancing. Mine was so tight I could barely turn the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground. I clearanced the bolt -- chucked it in my drill and used fine emery paper. I used some urethane bushing lube when I reassembled it. If you do some clearancing, don't do too much or you'll have a loose bushing.

[davemotohead]

Thats why I started making them out of Nylatron,,its basicaly a moly infused nylon that self lubricates and does not get sticky like nylon,,I also make the nylatron front suspension bushings to replace the nylon ones and they seem to work better as far a Stiction is concern.

[jmikulec]

Where can I get these nylatron bushings? Are you the only maker of these?

[66vairguy]

Davem. has gotten the pitman arm bushing replace down pat. A lot of folks seem to have trouble with the old metal sleeve. Dave has a site with parts - see http://motoheadmall.com/photo_2.html

If all else fails you can install the stock rubber pitman arm bushing assembly that comes with a new shell. The rubber allows a little more give, but it's hardly noticeable for street driving and if you have potholes in your area your steering box will take less of a beating with the rubber pitman arm bushing.

[myred63]

Hi, Finally removed the old Pitman Bushing from the Drag Link. Had to remove the Drag Link so I could put it in a vice. Now I have purchased a new Pitman Bushing from Clarks. The rubber assembly with the new shell attached. Trying to put the new one into the Drag Link, it is a press fit. Is that correct? Once I pound it in, it will never move. Just want to make sure that is OK before installing.

[azdave]

Too late now but the trick to get the old metal sleeve out is to use a hacksaw to very carefully cut through the wall of the sleeve from the inside. The kerf of the saw cut relieves the tension in the sleeve and you can pull it out easily. Yes, you will have to remove the blade from the hacksaw handle and re-install it while the blade is captured by the hole.

Press in the new sleeve and bushing. You're ready to go. When it's back in the car, make sure the steering is centered, wheels pointed straght ahead before you tighten it down.

[terribleted]

BTW you are really supposed to hammer on the tools not your fingers:) I can not count how many times my hands have looked like that!! I prefer to press rather than hammer in things like this. More control of what is going on and less chance of damage. That vice you have might go wide enough to press that if you have a short socket or pipe piece to fit over the rubber of the new bushing.

[myred63]

Oh, Hack saw would have been a good one. Thanks. The vice does go that wide so I think I will try that with a socket around the bolt end to press the new one in. As you can see in this picture, I had a bit of play in the steering.

[myred63]

Another question as I am putting the drag link back together. How tight should I make the castle nuts that the cotter pins go through?

[bbodie52]

See the attached shop manual section, which says...

Installation

Install idler arm and pitman arm to relay rod. Install and tighten nuts to 29 to 43 ft. lbs. and install cotter pins.

The 1961 Shop Manual is very similar...

Installation
Install idler arm and pitman arm to relay rod. Install and tighten nuts to 29 to 43 ft. lbs. and install cotter pins.

CAUTION: After relay rod bushings are replaced, care must be taken to install the idler arm and pitman arm in the exact alignment shown in Figure 4-3J. When installing nuts on the bushing bolts be sure to hold the hex head of the bolt so that no twisting of the bushing will occur. If the bushings are twisted, or if the idler or pitman arm are not correctly aligned, poor steering will result. The same caution applies to the idler arm to idler arm support bushing installation and alignment.

All of these shop manuals, supplements, and many other useful technical documents can be downloaded for free. See below...

The websites listed in the following link may be useful to you...

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

The applicable shop manual sections are attached below...

[myred63]

Perfect. I have the 61 manual. Guess I should just read it.
Thanks,
Jon