LM drive train removal
-
NewCorvairFan
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2023 3:37 pm
- Location: Mid South
LM drive train removal
I am back after a long break and am ready to tinker with my Corvair again! I still haven't fully decided the fate of my car, but I want to at least try to restore my 140/4 speed drive train. I cannot find many quality videos on how to do so for an engine as unique as this. Can anyone provide info on how to do so?
1967 Monza Convertible 4 speed
1966 Mercury Park Lane Breezeway
1966 Mercury Park Lane Breezeway
Re: LM drive train removal
These are excellent guides by our own Dave
"Motohead" Watson:
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"Motohead" Watson:
[url]]
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'61 140 PG Rampside
'66 Rear Alum V8 4-dr
'60 Monza PG coupe (sold, sniff, sniff)
'66 Corsa Fitch Sprint Conv. (First car 1971, recently repurchased)
'66 Rear Alum V8 4-dr
'60 Monza PG coupe (sold, sniff, sniff)
'66 Corsa Fitch Sprint Conv. (First car 1971, recently repurchased)
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caraholic4life
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:19 pm
- Location: Westminster, Maryland
Re: LM drive train removal
IF you have never removed the engine and transaxle from a Corvair.....Remove the two bottom bolts that attach the bell housing to the differential first then remove the entire unit while still bolted together.
By removing those two bolts first, it makes things much easier once everything has been removed.
Do NOT attempt to remove the engine first as sometimes the input shaft can want to stay stuck in the pilot bushing which then requires you to be extremely careful that you don't put to much pressure on the throw out bearing sleeve.
IF to much pressure is put on the throw out bearing sleeve, it can be damaged which then requires the complete disassembly of the differential to replace it.....This is not something that is easy to do and get put back together correctly unless you are experienced at this task.
It has been a few years since I removed an engine and transaxle assembly from a Corvair so I might miss something (and encourage others to point out any such omission).
I have not watched Dave Watson aka Dave Motohead's video but suspect it would cover everything very well so I would suggest watching it at least twice.
This is with the presumption that you are not using an actual vehicle lift, but rather a floor jack and jack stands and the car is not air conditioned.
1. Disconnect the Battery, Positive and Negative cables.
2. Remove rear wheel hub caps or wheel covers if applicable and Loosen the Lug Nuts.
3. Raise the car as high as your floor jack will allow you to and place Jack Stands at the proper locations.
The car needs to be high enough to allow for the height of the engine while sitting on the floor jack (Est. 30")
4. Remove the rear Grille if it is there.
5. Remove the exhaust system regardless if it is single or dual style. It is easier to do this sooner than later.
There is a good chance that you will break the exhaust studs unless they are in very good condition and not rusted.
6. Remove the two rear axles (Half Shafts) but be very careful that the U Joint Caps remain intact and don't come loose.
Once the Half Shafts are out, put them somewhere out of the way. Securing the U Joint Caps in place by running tape
around them would not be a bad idea. Reinstall the straps and bolts so they don't get misplaced.
7. Remove the four bolts attaching the lower control arm brackets to the differential on each side but use caution as there is tension on these parts. Removing the ones on the side of the differential first will make things easier then remove the ones at the bottom while being aware that they may make sudden movements.
8. IF the rear wheels are still on the car, it would be beneficial to go ahead and remove them. Put your lug nits back on the studs so they don't get misplaced. The wheels can be left on but it might make access to other steps easier.
9. Disconnect the Shifter Linkage, Clutch Linkage, and Accelerator Linkages and the Back Up Light Switch Wire. If this was a 1965 with the switch wire intact, the process is more involved but on a 1967 it is easier.
Take pictures of how things were before disassembly if you aren't positive you will remember how things go back together. Keep track of the small parts.
10. Carefully disconnect your Heater Hoses from both sides. IF they are old, they may be brittle and could easily tear.
11. Disconnect the Positive Battery cable from the starter motor as well as the smaller wires on the Solenoid. Use care when doing this as it is easy to damage the Solenoid if things have not been disconnected in a long time. Be very much aware of which wire goes where, take photo's or mark the wires if needed, put the nuts back on the studs so they don't get misplaced.
12. Remove the Air Cleaner and crossover tube. COVER the Carburetors with clean rags to help prevent anything from falling into them during the removal process.
13. It would be beneficial to remove the bracket that holds the stud your air cleaner wing nut threads to. Again put the nuts and other hardware back in place if you can or somewhere it won't get misplaced.
14. Disconnect the wires for the coil,oil pressure & head temperature switches any ground straps there may be between the chassis and shrouds, disconnect the rubber engine perimeter seal from the engine shrouds by gently pulling up on it all the way around.
15. Remove the cotter pins from the transmission crossover mount bolts and loosen the bolts but do not remove them.
16. Loosen the two motor mount bolts, but again, do not remove them.
17. Find a piece of thick plywood about the size of your oil pan to place on the floor jack and center it on the jack.
18.Place your floor jack under the engine and transaxle and raise it. I seem to recall that placing the jack at the end of the oil pan closest to the bell housing should be close enough to balance the engine and transaxle well enough that you can manage it. Raise the jack enough that the car starts to slightly move upwards and stop.
19. Remove the transmission crossover mount bolts and motor mount bolts.
20. Carefully lower the engine and transaxle assembly watching for anything that might of been overlooked. WATCH the Oil Filter to make sure it is not hanging up on the perimeter seal retaining brackets as this can easily happen.
21. IF you have helpers available, have them pull out on the lower control arms in order to get the arms out of the way. You really don't want to loosen the camber adjustment bolts on the lower control arms unless you plan of having a wheel alignment done after the car goes back together. Having the rear wheels back on might make this easier but it is not necessary.
22. Once the assembly is out of the car and sitting on your floor jack, find some wood blocks to set the engine on where it will balance and put another block under the transmission crossover bracket.
23. Remove your floor jack then reposition it under the transmission and raise it enough to reposition the block under the transmission crossover bracket to under the bell housing and lower the floor jack.
24. Using the piece of plywood under the transaxle, place your floor jack under the transaxle to support it. Since the differential is a bit heavier than the transmission, the center of the jack should be more under it than the transmission.
Make sure you have place the engine and transaxle assembly in a place where there is enough room to get things apart. Allow at least two feet more than you might anticipate is needed.
25. Remove the Starter motor and the bolts for the clutch rod cover plate then remove the harder to reach bolts holding the differential to the bell housing first. It might be necessary or beneficial to remove the piece of engine shroud that goes above the bell housing, I can't recall at the moment if this is necessary or not but might make things easier if not necessary.
26. When separating the transaxle from the engine....USE Extreme Care not to allow any pressure to be place on the Throw Out Bearing Shaft if the input shaft wants to stick in the pilot bushing. IF the input shaft wants to stick, you will need the extra room mentioned to allow for the successful separation of these components.
I think I covered everything but as mentioned, it has been a while and I may not clearly recall every step. Even though I did this a couple years ago, it had been decades since I had done it prior to that which is why the procedure is not as easily recalled as it likely is for others.
Once again, I encourage those that note errors in my attempted description to correct me as needed.
Plan on needing an afternoon to do this for your first time. (2 plus hours)
I once removed a powerpack in under a half hour from start to finish but that was under ideal circumstances where everything had recently been installed and all parts came apart easily.
Note: Edited to add items overlooked yesterday.
By removing those two bolts first, it makes things much easier once everything has been removed.
Do NOT attempt to remove the engine first as sometimes the input shaft can want to stay stuck in the pilot bushing which then requires you to be extremely careful that you don't put to much pressure on the throw out bearing sleeve.
IF to much pressure is put on the throw out bearing sleeve, it can be damaged which then requires the complete disassembly of the differential to replace it.....This is not something that is easy to do and get put back together correctly unless you are experienced at this task.
It has been a few years since I removed an engine and transaxle assembly from a Corvair so I might miss something (and encourage others to point out any such omission).
I have not watched Dave Watson aka Dave Motohead's video but suspect it would cover everything very well so I would suggest watching it at least twice.
This is with the presumption that you are not using an actual vehicle lift, but rather a floor jack and jack stands and the car is not air conditioned.
1. Disconnect the Battery, Positive and Negative cables.
2. Remove rear wheel hub caps or wheel covers if applicable and Loosen the Lug Nuts.
3. Raise the car as high as your floor jack will allow you to and place Jack Stands at the proper locations.
The car needs to be high enough to allow for the height of the engine while sitting on the floor jack (Est. 30")
4. Remove the rear Grille if it is there.
5. Remove the exhaust system regardless if it is single or dual style. It is easier to do this sooner than later.
There is a good chance that you will break the exhaust studs unless they are in very good condition and not rusted.
6. Remove the two rear axles (Half Shafts) but be very careful that the U Joint Caps remain intact and don't come loose.
Once the Half Shafts are out, put them somewhere out of the way. Securing the U Joint Caps in place by running tape
around them would not be a bad idea. Reinstall the straps and bolts so they don't get misplaced.
7. Remove the four bolts attaching the lower control arm brackets to the differential on each side but use caution as there is tension on these parts. Removing the ones on the side of the differential first will make things easier then remove the ones at the bottom while being aware that they may make sudden movements.
8. IF the rear wheels are still on the car, it would be beneficial to go ahead and remove them. Put your lug nits back on the studs so they don't get misplaced. The wheels can be left on but it might make access to other steps easier.
9. Disconnect the Shifter Linkage, Clutch Linkage, and Accelerator Linkages and the Back Up Light Switch Wire. If this was a 1965 with the switch wire intact, the process is more involved but on a 1967 it is easier.
Take pictures of how things were before disassembly if you aren't positive you will remember how things go back together. Keep track of the small parts.
10. Carefully disconnect your Heater Hoses from both sides. IF they are old, they may be brittle and could easily tear.
11. Disconnect the Positive Battery cable from the starter motor as well as the smaller wires on the Solenoid. Use care when doing this as it is easy to damage the Solenoid if things have not been disconnected in a long time. Be very much aware of which wire goes where, take photo's or mark the wires if needed, put the nuts back on the studs so they don't get misplaced.
12. Remove the Air Cleaner and crossover tube. COVER the Carburetors with clean rags to help prevent anything from falling into them during the removal process.
13. It would be beneficial to remove the bracket that holds the stud your air cleaner wing nut threads to. Again put the nuts and other hardware back in place if you can or somewhere it won't get misplaced.
14. Disconnect the wires for the coil,oil pressure & head temperature switches any ground straps there may be between the chassis and shrouds, disconnect the rubber engine perimeter seal from the engine shrouds by gently pulling up on it all the way around.
15. Remove the cotter pins from the transmission crossover mount bolts and loosen the bolts but do not remove them.
16. Loosen the two motor mount bolts, but again, do not remove them.
17. Find a piece of thick plywood about the size of your oil pan to place on the floor jack and center it on the jack.
18.Place your floor jack under the engine and transaxle and raise it. I seem to recall that placing the jack at the end of the oil pan closest to the bell housing should be close enough to balance the engine and transaxle well enough that you can manage it. Raise the jack enough that the car starts to slightly move upwards and stop.
19. Remove the transmission crossover mount bolts and motor mount bolts.
20. Carefully lower the engine and transaxle assembly watching for anything that might of been overlooked. WATCH the Oil Filter to make sure it is not hanging up on the perimeter seal retaining brackets as this can easily happen.
21. IF you have helpers available, have them pull out on the lower control arms in order to get the arms out of the way. You really don't want to loosen the camber adjustment bolts on the lower control arms unless you plan of having a wheel alignment done after the car goes back together. Having the rear wheels back on might make this easier but it is not necessary.
22. Once the assembly is out of the car and sitting on your floor jack, find some wood blocks to set the engine on where it will balance and put another block under the transmission crossover bracket.
23. Remove your floor jack then reposition it under the transmission and raise it enough to reposition the block under the transmission crossover bracket to under the bell housing and lower the floor jack.
24. Using the piece of plywood under the transaxle, place your floor jack under the transaxle to support it. Since the differential is a bit heavier than the transmission, the center of the jack should be more under it than the transmission.
Make sure you have place the engine and transaxle assembly in a place where there is enough room to get things apart. Allow at least two feet more than you might anticipate is needed.
25. Remove the Starter motor and the bolts for the clutch rod cover plate then remove the harder to reach bolts holding the differential to the bell housing first. It might be necessary or beneficial to remove the piece of engine shroud that goes above the bell housing, I can't recall at the moment if this is necessary or not but might make things easier if not necessary.
26. When separating the transaxle from the engine....USE Extreme Care not to allow any pressure to be place on the Throw Out Bearing Shaft if the input shaft wants to stick in the pilot bushing. IF the input shaft wants to stick, you will need the extra room mentioned to allow for the successful separation of these components.
I think I covered everything but as mentioned, it has been a while and I may not clearly recall every step. Even though I did this a couple years ago, it had been decades since I had done it prior to that which is why the procedure is not as easily recalled as it likely is for others.
Once again, I encourage those that note errors in my attempted description to correct me as needed.
Plan on needing an afternoon to do this for your first time. (2 plus hours)
I once removed a powerpack in under a half hour from start to finish but that was under ideal circumstances where everything had recently been installed and all parts came apart easily.
Note: Edited to add items overlooked yesterday.
1962 95 FC Van
1964 Greenbrier Deluxe
1965 Monza Coupe
1965 Monza Convertible
Mid Engine enthusiast &
Prior Kelmark Owner
1964 Greenbrier Deluxe
1965 Monza Coupe
1965 Monza Convertible
Mid Engine enthusiast &
Prior Kelmark Owner
-
NewCorvairFan
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2023 3:37 pm
- Location: Mid South
Re: LM drive train removal
Thank yall very much for the videos and checklist! I will take pictures before disassembly, however, there isn't much that can be done to this engine that hasn't already been done. It was left with no air cleaners or protection on it for 30 years in a field. The motor is also VERY locked up. I'm still going to try to restore at least thedrive train, but if the block or other major components are pitted, it may be the end for this one sadly.
1967 Monza Convertible 4 speed
1966 Mercury Park Lane Breezeway
1966 Mercury Park Lane Breezeway
-
Frank DuVal
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:58 pm
Re: LM drive train removal
End?
Lots of replacement used parts abound in the US. Most parts are NOT 140 specific (unless you need a numbers matching block for a Corsa with AC)
I bet there are old Corsa members around who could supply what you needed. Might not be current members. We had a high of like 8000 members back 30 years ago. And some of those squirreled away parts.
Lots of replacement used parts abound in the US. Most parts are NOT 140 specific (unless you need a numbers matching block for a Corsa with AC)
I bet there are old Corsa members around who could supply what you needed. Might not be current members. We had a high of like 8000 members back 30 years ago. And some of those squirreled away parts.
Frank DuVal
Fredericksburg, VA
Hey look, blue background!
Fredericksburg, VA
Hey look, blue background!
Re: LM drive train removal
My car sat untouched in my garage for 22 years. When I got back to it, I imagined the cylinders were rusty but when I tore it down they were perfect. Your situation is different but don't toss the motor before tearing it down to see what parts may still be good. You may find forged crank & listens and a good cam, block & heads, even if the cylinders are pitted. Good used parts are expensive. Good learning experience tearing down too.
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