Ignitor Conversion preparation

[LandShark]

Hi All,
I did do my research but I wanted to maybe get some advice here before I attempt the upgrade. I know every situation is different.

First off, '65 110/pg
Currently using points but ready to put in the petronix ignitor (1162a)
It has a flamethrower 1.5 ohm already installed by p/o. (see image)
I'm not sure if it has the resistor wire to the positive of the coil or not as what I've read, based on my car it should be a black with purple wire but it currently has a black with yellow wire. (see image)

Will that coil work for me? I remember reading somewhere that it would be best with a ## ohm coil but I can't remember the ## nor find the post where I found it.

I know I'll need to test/confirm the voltage on the black/yellow wire.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

[bbodie52]

I personally would choose the Stinger distributor and electronic ignition as a first choice, the Crane Cams XR-700 ($111.02) electronic ignition (optical trigger) as a second choice, an the Pertronix I162A Ignitor I ($74.88) as a 3rd choice.

The electronic module in the Crane cams unit is engineered to run on the reduced voltage provided by a stock system with a ballast resistor in the circuit, so removing the ballast resistor wire from the Corvair wiring harness is not necessary (but is required for the other systems). The Pertronix Ignitor I is OK for a Corvair with an automatic transmission, but the Ignitor II is not recommended because of sensor problems at the slower idle speed of a Powerglide-equipped Corvair.


Electronic Distributors are now in stock and available with Blue, Red or Black HEI or the OEM Style cap
http://www.perfvair.com/stinger-ignition-distributors/

Finally, an all-new replacement distributor for the Corvair.
All-electronic High Energy ignition system included.
Magnetic-pulse pickup triggers internal electronics
No ugly boxes in the engine compartment
Has Vacuum advance and adjustable mechanical advance
Complete Ready-to-Run system – Self contained
Vacuum block-off plate included for competition
Uses easily available GM parts and aftermarket accessories
Update to any 12 volt coil or add a high performance Coil –
Optional cap designs and color for HEI cap or OEM style well-type cap
New 12 Volt coils available in Red, Black or Blue!
Cap clears top shroud and fan belt pulleys.

The Distributor sells for only $200

On a 1965 or later Corvair, tap off of the 20 B/P wire (before the 12-pin multi-connector) to obtain 12 VDC switched by the ignition switch.

[SteveH]

As a person who just went back to points after my Ignitor failed, i would STRONGLY support Brad's suggestion.

My VERY next $$ based upgrade WILL be one of Seth's Distributors.

[66vairguy]

Over the years most reports on the two forums indicate that half of folks have very little trouble with the Petronix units, the other half has a lot of problems and failures.

I run the Petronix 1162a (often called the ignitor I) and it's fine. That said dropping in a Petronix module is NOT going to fix a worn out distributor, or one that has incorrect/missing parts. If the distributor is in good condition then the Petronix should work fine IF you install it correctly - and there is were I find a number of problems. I rebuild my own distributors and NO you don't need the double bushing. Yes it will last longer (single bushing is good for about 50K miles), but with a double bushing you must align bore them to make sure the shaft is perpendicular to the mounting flange - few do that and it can damage the oil pump housing where the end of the shaft goes.

This has been covered numerous times - the ballast (resistance wire in GM cars) is about 1.8 ohms and the stock coil was about 1.2 ohms for a total of 3.0 ohms (minimum resistance for the Petronix 1162A), EXCEPT when the starter is engaged that by-passes the resistance wire (to increase cold start voltage to the coil). I don't care for the Flamethrower coils since they have had numerous quality issues over the decades, but if your 1.5 ohm coil has been working it's probably fine.
1. Makes sure the Petronix module ground is good.
2. DO NOT hook the Petronix power supply wire to the coil "+" terminal (it will work usually, but is not advised). The supply wire goes to the harness wire with power from the ignition key (the other side of the connector has the resistance wire that goes to the "R" terminal starter). From the starter a regular copper wire that is either black/yellow or yellow goes to the coil "+" terminal. See Brad's markups here.
3. the Petronix coil wire goes to the "-" coil terminal (like the points wire)
4. As advised by Petronix you have to cut the cap to allow the wires to fit without pinching/cutting the insulation (which will short and destroy the Petronix module).

[LandShark]

First off, thank you all for the responses.
I'd love to go for one of the stingers and it may be something I do off in the future but for now, the Ignitor is where i'm at and glad to hear the flamethrower I have should work.

Please forgive my ignorance but I'm still learning...
So the black with yellow wire, as seen in my second image, is likely running at 7v (I'll check with voltmeter of course)?

Brad's images make it all very clear and as was recommended, I now understand to "tap off of the 20 B/P wire (before the 12-pin multi-connector) to obtain 12 VDC switched by the ignition switch." Is there a specific place I can do this in the engine bay or do I need to pull directly from the fuse block? Sorry, Corvair electrical is not exactly my specialty. ...oh and B/P would be black with purple?

Thanks again,
Chris

[66vairguy]

First off, thank you all for the responses.
I'd love to go for one of the stingers and it may be something I do off in the future but for now, the Ignitor is where i'm at and glad to hear the flamethrower I have should work.

Please forgive my ignorance but I'm still learning...
So the black with yellow wire, as seen in my second image, is likely running at 7v (I'll check with voltmeter of course)?

Brad's images make it all very clear and as was recommended, I now understand to "tap off of the 20 B/P wire (before the 12-pin multi-connector) to obtain 12 VDC switched by the ignition switch." Is there a specific place I can do this in the engine bay or do I need to pull directly from the fuse block? Sorry, Corvair electrical is not exactly my specialty. ...oh and B/P would be black with purple?

Thanks again,
Chris

Chris - Most of the Corvair folks in my club have difficulty with electrical concepts, so you are not alone.

The "B/P" is BLACK/PINK, P=pink. There is violet that looks like purple and is identified as V for VIOLET on the drawings.

The voltage at the coil is confusing to most since voltage only drops to a lower value when there is amperage (current flow). Basically when the points are open no current flows and the coil "+" terminal is the same as system voltage (13-14.5VDC). When the points close current flows and "drops" voltage at the ballast resistance and you'll measure about 5-6VDC at the coil "+". When the engine runs the points open and close rapidly and a voltage meter can't react that fast and some average readings and will display anywhere from 7-11VDC.

Hope that helps

[LandShark]

That definitely helps thanks! I hope to do the work tomorrow or this weekend so I may have some follow up questions but I think I've got pretty much all I'll need if it goes as it should.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Corvair Forum mobile app

[LandShark]

Mission accomplished!
Thanks again for the help guys!