Running on 5

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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

Push rod is ok ,valve adjustment good , valve seat probably going to pull engine for inspection


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terribleted
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Re: Running on 5

Post by terribleted »

It is possible to simply remove the offending head without pulling the engine. Requires lowering the rear of the powertrain and perhaps removing the tall carb stud for clearance for removal. Of course if the head needs to be re-worked it is best to do both heads so they match precisely. At some point it becomes easier to simply remove the engine from the car I suppose, but, just so you know the engine does not need to be out to remove the heads.
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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

Anyone know if piston will be 👌 once assembled?
Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

Update engine and trans out , what a mission I undid the uj on the drive shafts didn't realize can pull whole shafts 😩 . Does any oil leak when shafts fully out of trans?
The re build begins
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bbodie52
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Re: Running on 5

Post by bbodie52 »

:wrench: There is a first time for everything, and we all learn as we go along — hopefully only making minor mistakes.

There should be no significant oil (gear lube) that would come out of the differential if the axles are unbolted from the brake backing plates and then pulled free from the differential. The gear lube in the differential sits no higher than the bottom threads of the fill plug on the side of the differential. This places the top surface of the gear lube below the axles. It is a good idea to inspect the universal joints while they are exposed. These are normally neglected — even if you have the type of universal joints that include a grease fitting. I have found some with the needle bearings in the universal joints are so dry and rusted they have turned to powder, with some of the needles broken and fractured because they have not been lubricated for years. If your universal joints are determined to be worn badly, they should be replaced with the type that includes a grease fitting to allow them to be lubricated periodically as a part of normal maintenance.

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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

The fun begins , its summer in U.K. So not too bad working outside [emoji41]


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64powerglide
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Re: Running on 5

Post by 64powerglide »

When you get around to starting the engine reset the distributor as seen in the photo & put the plug wires in the correct position. Note positions of the wires in the cap. The hold down screw is to the right of number one.
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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

Making engine stand today :tu: Makes life easier
Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

Hi all and happy new year,

we’ll finally got the engine rebuilt and installed, engine running then life got in the way again ……… fast forward new stainless exhausts made and fitted today. It was a cheaper option than imported costs+ dreaded import duty.
Anyway hung the pipes put a new battery on and ……. No starting. No spark at points . We ran out of time so will Hotwire the ignition coil to see if I can get a spark tomorrow. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I did think rusty fuse holder maybe 🤔
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66vairguy
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Re: Running on 5

Post by 66vairguy »

Nice exhaust.

You had the engine out so it could be the engine to main harness connector. No fuse for ignition.

I assume the engine turns over, but won't start. You say no spark. There should be a BLACK/YELLOW wire to the coil "+" terminal and a BLACK wire from the coil "-" terminal to the points.
With the ignition key ON and the points OPEN you should see about 12.5VDC at the coil "+" terminal.
With the ignition key ON and the points CLOSED you should see about 5.5VDC at the coil "+" terminal. DO NOT LEAVE KEY ON FOR MORE THAN A 30 SECONDS WITH POINTS CLOSED OR COIL COULD OVERHEAT.

The voltage is less with the points closed because of the inline ballast resistor in the engine wiring harness.

If voltages good and still no spark then let us know.

Good luck.
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Frank DuVal
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Frank DuVal »

If you are still running points, clean them. I have to use a points file on my Ford 8N tractor every year to cut the corrosion. Of course it lives outside...

I had to file them last week in preparation for an upcoming snow storm so I would be ready to plow the driveway if needed. Hadn't run since last winter. Once filed (have to remove the distributor to do it on that front mounted one) it started just fine and ran like an 8N does. Pluck pluck pluck.


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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

:dontknow: morning, voltage is good still no spark . Engine turns over . Could it be the condenser? I’ve swapped the coil out for a new one. Hopefully no rain today so will have another go. I’ve cleaned the points.
One question does the central pin in the distributor cap spring loaded or fixed . As mines fixed with a spring top rotor.
This is a simple fix but I’m stumped :helpsos: :helpsos: :helpsos:
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American Mel
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Re: Running on 5

Post by American Mel »

Condensors do fail, but it isn't really common for that to happen.
I would go back through the entire system and double-check every single wiring connection.
Do you have a test-light, or a Digital Volt Meter(DVM)?
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Frank DuVal
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Frank DuVal »

1. Yes, fixed carbon contact in distributor cap and the rotor has the flexible contact.

2.Turn engine to when the points are closed then turn key on and open points with a piece of plastic (or screwdriver not touching you or ground) by pushing on the arm. Is there a spark between the points contacts when you do that? No, then remove just the condenser lead from the points and do it again. You might want to turn the key off while pulling the condenser lead.

3. Still no spark at the points? Take a length of wire and touch the - terminal of the coil to a good ground with the key on. You should get a spark if the points are open. By touch, I mean strike the last connection, not hold on tight. Still no small spark? Remove the wire from the - terminal of the coil that goes to the distributor. Strike again, spark?

4. No, then I suspect no power to the + terminal of the coil or your length of test wire is bad. OK, 0.1% of the time it could be a bad coil., try the strike the ground test wire to the + terminal of the coil with the key on. Should be a healthy spark! Again, no touchy no holding, just strike the wire to the terminal. See, we got here with no test equipment except a piece of wire. :chevy:

5. Report back.



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Datsolow
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Re: Running on 5

Post by Datsolow »

:neener: running all is well thanks everyone. It was the continuity lead between coil and distributor as you explained. :not worthy: :not worthy: :ty: :woo:
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