EM Front suspension rebuild

[wbabst]

Wow that looks great, there will be no missing that suspension under your car. If you have black springs I think the silver shocks would be awesome. That is my unsolicited 2 cents. Really nice hope you post pics of it installed.

[jdflight]

That is what I thought worse case I can always change them back out if necessary. more pictures to come when I get assembled this week.

[jdflight]

Okay crazy and maybe a stupid question. I did not mark the driver or passenger side control arm is there a difference and if so how do I tell. I have a couple days off and was going to the reassembly process but just realized I didn't make them
.

[BobWitt]

yes, there is a driver's and passenger's side - and the "pins" also have an orentation... I have not done an early, but, here is my photos as I marked before dis-assembly of mine. Maybe it will help?

I put one dot with a center punch on the front of the Driver's arm and Pin - Two on the passenger's. Note the curvature to the front side of the A-arm to the front, also note the step sizes of the pins, inboard and outboard... Click on the photo to zoom...

Good luck with your project...

[jdflight]

Bob

Thanks that helps alot, so are the lower different at all? The pictures helped a lot; plan to have it all assembled by Friday if all goes right. Will not have the brakes bleed till Saturday.

[BobWitt]

Lowers different on my Late Model - at least due to attachment point for sway bar. If not for the sway bar, not sure if yours would be the same...

The way 4 holes are drilled to accept the brake reaction rods, it seems they were intended to be the same part for both sides..

Good Luck...

[jdflight]

Thanks for all the help, I think I have the control arms all sorted out now down to the caster bars that go to the lower control arm and back of the center brace see picture below.

So two questions if someone could give me some help on this. The way the control rod attaches to the crossmemeber and the lower control arm, seems correct but want to double check. I cant seem to find any diagrams to help me sort this out.

[BobWitt]

Brake reaction rods to LCA looks good (all of it looks good!).


The bushing at the brake reaction rod to the cross member look different than the ones I used (see below)

Capture1.JPG (12.93 KiB) Viewed 997 times

Cannot see, but you also have a large nut, washer and bushing on the front side of the cross member also... Right? Like...

So, how did those tools work? BTW, don't torque any of the bushings (LCA upper, lower, sway [if equipped] or Brake Control) until the vehicle weight is sitting on the wheels. Torquing with the suspension fully extended results in the bushings being on a bind at proper standing height...

Keep up the posts...

[64powerglide]

http://www.corvair.org/chapters/corvana ... pen-61.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Might help you. Sure is looking good

[jdflight]

Bob thanks for the pictures, I thought I had i right. Below is the picture of the passenger side brake reaction rod. I actually did not know it was called that until you responded.

64powerglide thanks for the link, I have the manuals but they really don't give you good images or diagrams.

[jdflight]

Looking for a little advise on how to install the front struts with the front suspension off the car. I almost have everything back together except that, would appreciate any suggestions.

[jdflight]

Well got some time today and have the front end almost together below are some pictures. As I posted before still have to get the bottom of struts bolted in then have to clean underneath the car before installing.

[lonestranger]

One last comment relative to use of Dot 5 brake fluid for the street - Don't! Dot 5 fluid is not hydroscopic, and as such does not absorb moisture like Dot 3 and 4. It was designed for racing, where it's higher resistance to fade from heat is valuable, however in a race car the fluid is serviced frequently, whereas on the street it is hard to get people to even change it every 2 years. Since the Dot 5 will not absorb moisture, the moisture can build up (and pool) thereby causing rust in the system and "mushy" brakes due to the water converting to steam and back etc. Use the proper fluid for the proper use and flush as recommended and you will have a much happier (and safer) brake system.

[jdflight]

Thanks for the brake fluid information I will be sure to take that in consideration when I go to bleed the brakes. So I decided to redo the steering parts while I had the front end all apart. I know I should have thought of that when I started the project. So I have the outer tie rod ends and plan to order the inner along with the drag link bushing. Can someone tell me why Clarks suggest on replacing the steel tie rod sleeve, mine looks good just need to be cleaned.

Thanks for any help.

[jdflight]

Well finally got the front suspension installed back in the car. Reinstalling it went fairly easy actually did it by myself. Now ran into an issue of getting the tie rod ends out of the sleeves so I can replace them. Any one have idea to get them to break lose, already soaked them in PB blast.

[64powerglide]

Ya, just keep putting the rest of us to shame I worked 5 days spraying my rear axle yokes with WD-40 & a puller, now they are cleaned up & sitting in a small tub of 50/50 Muriatic acid 20 Baume & water. I'll take a look at them before I go to bed but that will eat the rust up pretty fast.