County98's Learn as I Go Thread

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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

cad-kid wrote:Nice progress. Remove, clean up & re-lube the shifter while you have the carpet out (remove the center pan to access the nuts).
ANy reason I shouldn't leave it in neutral when I pull the shifter? Any special Corvair magic that says I have to be in reverse or something to get everything re-aligned and adjusted?
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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cad-kid
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by cad-kid »

If you are leaving the shift coupler connected to the trans, you won't be changing any adjustments when you r & r the shifter. The shifter is designed to slide front to back in relation to the engine/trans movement.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Been awhile since I had some time to work on the 'Vair, but finally got to spend a Saturday in the garage.

While waiting on the brake line kit to come in, I slapped some Rust Bullet up into the tank cavity. Kind of an experiment really. I did VERY little prep just to see what this stuff was all about. Scuffed up the big stuff, ran a quick 320 grit over it (VERY quickly), and wiped it down twice to get most of the sand and rust/dust off.

The Rust Bullet seems to work pretty good and sticks pretty well with my terrible prep job. It's pretty nasty to work with though. Fumes are PRETTY bad. Especially upside down, laying on the floor, painting with a brush over my face. The rest of the undercarriage can wait, that's for sure. Did 2 coats with a quick brush.
Brake lines are routed, but not hooked up on either end.
Brake lines are routed, but not hooked up on either end.
I'll be replacing all the grommets when I get to re-doing the brakes all the way around.
I'll be replacing all the grommets when I get to re-doing the brakes all the way around.
Rust Bullet Gas Tank (3).JPG
Tank filler cleaned up. Knocked it down with a wire brush and then sprayed it with some flat black Rustoleum. Hit the tank strap while I was at it. I understand that my prep work is sucking, but this is under car stuff and just wanted to clean it up a little.
Fuel Filler (5).JPG
Fuel Filler (6).JPG
Couldn't find a definitive answer on the anti-squeak. Shop manual shows one vague pic, Clark's shows another, some people's removed tanks show something different, and mine didn't have any at all.

Made it up and hit the rib spots and a couple scrap pieces sideways for good measure.
Anti-Squeak.JPG
Finished product. Wasn't TOOO bad. Couldn't fit all assembled from the bottom, so I fed through the filler, had the bottom clamps tight with hoses on tank, and then put the filler to hoses and finished tightening the top hose clamps in the car. Of course, that was the toughest part. Tank itself seemed to go in easier than the old one came out.
Finished Tank.JPG
Cheers!
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Was hoping to finish up the fuel system all the way to the firewall, but ended up with the wrong electric pump. I got the Airtex E8012S instead of the correct E8016S. Too much pressure I guess. I'll order up the right one and do the pump another day.

Worked on the windows a little. Davemotohead hit a homerun with that A-MAZ cleaner. That stuff works pretty good when NOTHING else would even scratch the surface.

This is a really quick first hit to get off the majority of the mineral deposits. Did it by and, just like waxing a car. Let the paste dry and wipe it off, it turns into powder that absorbed all the minerals. Pretty trick. Will re-do them later inside and out for real with a buffer, but this is the first blush.
A-Maz (3).JPG
A-Maz (1).JPG
Lastly, I dropped the tunnel covers for the first time. Lots of webs and a couple nests. Let me just say that I Shop Vac EVERY time before I crawl under the car sucking up spider webs and creepy stuff. I have killed no less than 6 Black Widows (Wife knows about 1...) and it creeps me out when I'm under there and have no place to move, lol.
Tunnel Covers (1).JPG
Tunnel Covers (2).JPG
That's it for today. Started a little on removing body sealer from inside rear. What a PITA. There must be 30 pounds of that stuff in the interior. I'm going to have to go get a multi-size selection of metal putty knives or something.

-Cheers!
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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cad-kid
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by cad-kid »

Nice work & photos :tu:
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
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MBlaster1
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by MBlaster1 »

Looks like a good car not to rusty and you are making good progress.
Don Howard
Lake City Fl.

66 140 Convertible
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Scott H
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by Scott H »

I found the pics I took of your car when I first looked at it at the owners house. Here is the link - viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1881#p12128" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Scott
1960 Monza Coupe
1965 Evening Orchid Corsa Turbo (project)
1961 Rampside (project)
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1963 Monza (parts car)
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Hi guys, Been out for awhile, but I'm back and got a chance to work on the car today for a bit.

Finally got a chance to put the electric pump in. One of you old head Corvair guys could probably knock this out in an hour, but it took me most of the morning, lol.

Got my stuff together. Pump and stuff that came with it, 2 packs of wire grommets from FLAPS, and 2 90 degree threaded ends (also from FLAPS). A couple feet of fuel line as well. Make sure you get the cheap stuff, don't need the high $$$, high pressure line:
Fuel Pump (2).jpg
Couple special tools. IMPOSSIBLE to see pencil marks on dark, rusty metal for drilling holes. Use a Step Bit and a Silver Sharpie.
Fuel Pump (5).jpg
Pump 8016, 2.5-4 psi:
Fuel Pump (4).jpg
Okay, so not the most Pro job but it should work. I decided to take the inlet and outlet both back out to the factory spot instead of sideways into the tunnel. That way I don't have to cut and flare the new fuel line. Always grommet everything going through metal, even the wires get their own little hole and grommet. I also used some rubber I had in scrounge to isolate between the pump and floorboard.

Speaking of that, I have no idea how anyone can get the mount point on the frame rail. No way my drill was getting up there. I decided to bite the bullet and mount right through the passenger floor. After I rust bullet, eventual dynamat, and eventual carpet, I don't think that little bolt head will be noticeable.
Fuel Pump (8).jpg
Fuel Pump (7).jpg
One other note. Make sure you grind ANY ground point down to bare metal.
Fuel Pump (6).jpg
After much thought on it, I ordered Ray Sedman's Fuel Controller (relay) as the safety device for this pump. I really didn't feel like running wiring for a second oil pressure switch, or using an inertial. I figure the Tach Trigger will work fine and it'll still prime on startup. I didn't get it in yet, so I haven't wired the hot side of the pump, but I did grommet it through into the tunnel for now. I also haven't hooked up the "Out" side of the line yet, because I'm going to be changing the long lines in the tunnel for brake and fuel, just haven't dropped the power pack for routing or gone into the tunnel deep enough yet.
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

I did manage to get the heater ducting out of the tunnel also. Not too bad, just filthy. Hosed it out and a couple mouse nests came out as well, lol.
Heater Duct.jpg
I ordered the Super Duper, end all-be all brake kit from Clark's along with the Dual MC conversion and got it in the mail yesterday. I didn't start on it yet, but did a little prep. Put all 4 up in the air, pulled the wheels and 3 out of 4 drums. One is being pretty stubborn, so have it soaking overnight in a dousing of PB Blaster.
Old Brakes (4).jpg
Sample of 30-something year old brakes, lol.
Old Brakes (5).jpg
I'll start on the brake re-do another day. Will be all brand new From the new dual MC to the pads, even all the hard lines. :tu:
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Finally, I had posted a thread for some engine info, and Notched was really helpful getting me on track. See Here:

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=8296" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In a nutshell, The 140 I have is a "RT" code for a '66 smog motor, which makes sense. Don't think it's the original motor for the car, but should work out okay.
DSCF0080.JPG
DSCF0079.JPG
DSCF0082.JPG
DSCF0084.JPG
The only thing that threw me for a loop a little is this dizzy that is kind of an oddball I guess.
DSCF0081.JPG
I did finally find in the CORSA Tech Guide, Vol 3, that it lists it out as a '67/ 140/ MT/ smog. So instead of trying to track down and rebuild a 330, I think I'm going to roll with it? Maybe?

Anyone have input on this? I've read that the -330 is the "go to" dizzy for the 140 MT's, but does anyone in the know have a good opinion on this oddball one?

The engine in the car is a "YN" code, btw. I did pull all the plugs from both motors and squirt a little PB Blaster and a little Marvel Mystery Oil in there. Haven't pulled the valve covers yet, but both engines will rotate from the crank pulley. I went nice and easy and will rotate a little at a time for a few days and let the oils work their magic. I'll follow the "How to revive a 20 yr old engine" guidelines, but I was curious on whether or not I had boat anchors or not. So a small prelim victory on that front.

Thanks for all the help guys, that's all for today!



-Shayne
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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Edz
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by Edz »

Your progress is a inspirational, my Corsa is heading down the same path with a similar plan of attack. I have been collecting odds and ends for mine with help while I wait to get it off of my buddies property and over to my garage once his car vacates my intended corvair space. Kind of funny we both have dual carb Corsa projects with plans to go back to the 140, and if I read correctly we are both in Nevada. Once mine is here out goes my tank...any tricks or things to watch for based on your recent experience with the tank?
No stock parts were harmed during the on going restoration of this Corvair....ok, maybe a little bit.
1965 Corsa Coupe #5065
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Hiya Edz, I'm making all this up as I go and reading all the threads from the folks smarter than me, lol. I'm up in North Vegas. I think for awhile we were both looking at the same white Corsa that some knucklehead had for sale?

Anyway, if you're in town some weekend, shoot me a PM and we'll have some coffee or something. Also, Marty Katz lives here and he's got a lot of parts and whatnot if you're in town and need something that you would normally order from Clark's. He's a super nice guy and very helpful.

Tank itself is kind of self explanatory, a couple J bolts is all that holds it in. The tricky part is getting the filler neck hooked back up. Aside from what I put in the build log, there's only a couple things I stumbled across that I might have done.

After I installed it, I read that the waxy parafin type coating when you get a new tank is on the inside as well and will burn a brownish smoke for the first tank of gas. Don't know how true, but I may have swished the tank with gas first and dumped it back out. Too late for me now, I'm not pulling that sumbitch back out.

Change your metal brake lines while it's already out.

Install your new sender/float while the tank is still out.

Can't think of anything else bud. Good luck! PM me if you get stuck and maybe we can muddle through it together.

-Shayne
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

Forgot to mention...

I have new shocks here, went with the adjustable Gabriels from Clarks. I also ordered up a set of new springs from Coil Spring Specialties. After pricing out the HD jobbers from the vendors, it wasn't that much more to order them custom. I'm not a personal fan of cutting coils, re-shaping ends, and still having an unknown spring rate.

I ordered up coils with a 2" drop in front, 1" drop in the rear, HD spring rate +10% to offset the newer radial tires. All told they custom turn them from straight bar, takes a few weeks, and costs $370-ish shipped to Vegas for all 4.

Short plan is get all the brakes situated, new coils and shocks, re-paint the camaro wheels and throw on some new tires in a 205/55-15 front and 225/50-15 rear.

Re-bush and freshen up shifter, pull the power pack, and then I can finish the long lines for brake and fuel.

After that, will be all on getting the girl running even if temporary.

While I had the rear wheels still on, but jacked up, I put it in gear and spun it. Other wheel moved in the opposite direction, so I guess no posi for me...

-Cheers!
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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Edz
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by Edz »

I think it would be great to meet up if I'm down south. I'm up in northern Nevada about 40 miles east of Reno. An open invitation out to you also if you are around this area. I'm in the same boat learning as I go on mine. I have more time than funds but, so far there is plenty of hard labor...
I love the way the rust bullet application turned out from your pics night and day...btw I get creeped out by the bugs also had one black widow drop on me so far...


The white one....was that the one with red interior, dual carb heads he claimed... If so I was curious what happened to it...I saw when he dropped the price down into the mid 2k range after asking over 6 I think it was at first. What is up with all the dual carb Corsa conversions in Nevada anyway :tongue:


There was a green monza non runner I almost picked up down there back in Feb. his add was a bit miss leading claiming all kinds of new stuff...which it had...almost 5yrs ago before he parked it and let it bake....she sure was solid though. If he had just dropped his price a tad I would have bought it...glad I did not though I love my Corsa.

I might just take ya up on the Marty Katz offer, if I can not find a few odds and ends I'm looking for. Mainly driver side door parts at this point. Plus a pesky telescopic wheel horn button....almost $80 for one from Clark's :banghead: It's nice to have the rare option, but $80 for a horn button...sucker better be made out of titanium.

Best of luck and keep us updated, your build is moving along well and quickly compared to mine. :D :tu:
No stock parts were harmed during the on going restoration of this Corvair....ok, maybe a little bit.
1965 Corsa Coupe #5065
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County98
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by County98 »

So, haven't done too much lately, been busy. Corsa is still airborne and haven't installed the brakes yet.

I did get my new coils from Coil Spring Specialties today though, so I'm super excited to get working on her again.
20140913_164700.jpg
20140913_170112.jpg
I know...I uploaded a picture of a box, lol. Pretty exciting stuff, no?

While I haven't worked on the car, I did get the 140 free'd up and turning over with the crank nut. Also pulled the valve covers and oil pan to see whats up. Nothing looks catastrophic (I don't think?), and by that I mean all the valves seem to move, the lifters go in and out, and there aren't any giant chucks of steel and aluminum in the pan. SOme chunks of what used to be a couple o-rings though. There's a lot of sludge, carbon build up (or old crusty oil?), and some weird whitish build up pretty heavy in the exhaust ports.

I really have NO idea what I'm doing, but figured I'm probably not going to screw much up that isn't already shot, so might as well dive in. I'm following the steps in the thread on reviving an old motor, but since my engine stand lets me spin the whole motor around, I'm doing that too.

I squirted some PB Blaster and MMO in the cyclinders, hosed down under the valve covers with PB Blaster, and then I turn the crank a half turn every day and rotate the whole motor 90 degrees every day. I figure I'll just coat everything inside with that stuff for now and try not to break anything I don't know how to fix.
20140912_165414.jpg
20140912_165744.jpg
One thing I noticed is that the consensus seems to be for a cold adjustment to be zero lash plus a half turn. Generally leaving 2 threads exposed or so? EVERY rocker has 4-5 threads showing like this pic. I also don't know if it's normal, but as I'm turning the crank pulley, with no plugs in, the motor kind of makes a VOOOOOOP, VOOOOOOOOP, kind of sucking sound. I know that's not going to mean much to anyone....
20140912_165448.jpg
20140912_165553.jpg
20140912_165631.jpg
20140912_165917.jpg
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Well, that's it for today.

-Cheers!
Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
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cad-kid
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Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread

Post by cad-kid »

Thanks for the pics!

White deposited are probably lead. Engine looks pretty black inside. Lack of oil changes and or running hot. Sound you hear is normal from air rushing in and out of spark plug holes.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread
:soapbox: My YouTube page
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