Upgraded to alternator; brings stereo problems

[Augustine23K]

Hello! So I just upgraded from a generator to an alternator. Got it all set up and excited that its running just fine. Get in the driver seat and realize now that everytime I turn the car off, the radio (an aftermarket newer model of course) resets and I need to re input all of my stations. I know for a fact that it was working prior. I swear I followed the wiring instructions correctly. Can any one help or give advice as to what may be the problem.

[terribleted]

Sounds like your memory wire to the radio has lost connection to constant power. Either at the fuse box, or in its wiring, unless you disconnected the constant positive feed from the battery to the car in which case the lights will not function with the key off either.

[Augustine23K]

yeah, that's what I'm thinking also. I had to go buy a new bulb for my current tester so I can check if its still getting constant hot. It's just weird because I did not mess with the wiring for the radio, I only messed with the wiring in the engine compartment to do the upgrade so thats why I was worried it had something to do with that. Thanks for the reply!

[bbodie52]

Are any other circuits in your car not functioning? If you rewired the original voltage regulator connections, the 10 gauge Red wire that feeds the car accessories, horn, radio, etc. was originally connected to the old voltage regulator BATT terminal, and then continued on to the multi-connector and into the car instrument panel area, where it is distributed to switched and unswitched circuits throughout the car. You might have disrupted something when you rewired for the new alternator system.

[Augustine23K]

No. Besides the radio, I haven't noticed any of the other functions not working. Yes the instructions to the alternator upgrade kit called for the splicing of the 10 ga red battery wire with the 10 ga red wire from the multi connector AND also a 10 ga to the alternator and a 20ga to the new regulator (which wasnt much of a "regulator" just wires looping back going to the alternator because I believe it has an internal regulator) Do you think that I may have done the wiring wrong or perhaps that the splicing of all four of those wires may have cause something to go awry?

[Augustine23K]

Should I splice the wires at specific locations or in specific order or even at all since it may have an internal regulator.

[Jerry Whitt]

A big question. Is this an alternator that is supposed to have an external voltage regulator? Or is this an alternator with an internal regulator?
A good picture of the alternator showing any wire connections will help.

[bbodie52]

The first diagram looks like it points to the use of a replacement external voltage regulator that would be compatible with an alternator. The second instruction sheet appears to be describing an adaptor pigtail harness that permits the use of an alternator with an integrated internal voltage regulator. Either way, the wiring harness modifications retains a hot lead (10 GA RED) and a 20 GA BR wire. The 10 gauge lead provides power to all vehicle circuits, while the 20 gauge wire controls the GEN warning light on the instrument panel.



Regardless of the internal or external voltage regulator configuration used in conjunction with your alternator, the first diagram shows a positive wire connection from the battery AND the alternator spliced to a lead that feeds the main harness behind the instrument panel, and that wire provides 12V DC to all circuits within the car (except for the primary cable that feeds the starter motor). Your charging system rewiring to adapt the use of an alternator should not have affected the power distribution behind the instrument panel — one of which should be providing continuous 12V DC to the radio to maintain the radio "memory" (clock and memorized stations) regardless of the ignition key position.

You will notice in the wiring diagram that the 10 Gauge Red wire from the alternator output, the battery positive terminal, and the wire that feeds the car electrical are all tied together. The thinner 20 Gauge red wire is only a sensor wire that helps to control the voltage regulator. The sequence that these wires are connected or their physical location is not important, as long as they are electrically tied together and that the wire gauge is sufficient to carry the maximum designed current load. When the alternator is not active, all power comes from the battery and feeds the car circuits at a nominal 12V DC. When the engine is running, the voltage output from the alternator EXCEEDS the nominal battery output, at approximately 13-14V DC. Under these circumstances, the alternator output takes over and powers the car electrical systems, AND it also provides a charging voltage that recharges the battery.

You will need to check the harness that is connected to the radio. There should be two power leads for the radio — one switched on and off by the ignition key, and one that provides battery power at all times. Make certain that the "memory" power wire is "hot" even when the key is OFF. If it is not, trace it back to the source and change it to a source that provides 12V DC at all times.

[Augustine23K]

Ok so I know for certain that the memory wire was hooked up correctly, especially because it was working propperly before this transition. I also just now checked if there was voltage to that wire and there is. It's getting power, yet still not maintaining it's memory. This is just leading me to conclude it has something to do with the radio and nothing to do with the new upgrade. But the timing of it all just had me questioning it.

[VairLess]

I had the same problem once when changing to a higher amp alternator..........most new stereos have a fuse on the back of it and this had blown. I changed it and everything was good again. Pull the stereo and check