First Corvair (Wisconsin)

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maintenanceman
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First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by maintenanceman »

First of all thanks for all the info on this forum, its helping me get a Corvair education. this was my grandpa's car, in his passing I purchased it from the family. While I grew up around his (6) Corvairs I do not know much about them (just starting to learn). My plans for the car are getting it running good and after market wheels. I removed the bad gas from the tank and replaced it with 91 octane and sea foam additive to help clean the system. According to the title there has been 10,000 miles put on it since 1986. The car has been in storage for at least the last 5 years. I have taken it around the block a couple of times, it spits and sputters when getting going up to about 2500 rpm then runs pretty smooth to approx. 4000 rpm where it starts to hesitate, could this be because of the cold weather (>30 degrees)? Seems to run great in the heated garage through entire RPM range. So far I replaced a brake line, replaced the air filter and ordered the shop and assembly manuals along with the Clark's catalog (oh and removed the continental tire rack). My next step is fuel filter and possibly carb clean. Also are there more places, other than Clark's, to get parts. Thanks for the great forum.
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Jerry Whitt
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by Jerry Whitt »

Looks like a great car! The temperature you mentioned could be related to the running.
Probably first test would be check dwell (measurement of crankshaft degrees of rotation while points are closed) This is done with a dwell meter, which most most parts stores carry. Reading should be around 31-34 degrees.

Next, check timing. The turbo car calls for initial timing of 24 degrees before top dead center. (set with vac advance hoses disconnected)

The weather temperature could certainly cause some issues, and the first thought is that of the choke. The choke mechanism should close when cold, and then open slowly as the engine warms up. To check, pull the air filter assembly and visually check when cold. When cold with the choke plate closed, and then the engine started, the idle speed should be 1400 or so. The choke plate should open a little when first started, If not, fast idle cam on carburetor may not be working.

Let us know your findings, perhaps we can offer more advice.
Jerry Whitt
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65 Corsa convertible
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bbodie52
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by bbodie52 »

:wave: :welcome2: Welcome to the Corvair Forum! What a beautiful start for your first Corvair! It appears to be a very well-maintained, rust free 1965 Corsa convertible... and with late model (1965-1969) convertibles, low levels of rust, road salt exposure, and body rot are critically important in preserving the (unibody construction) car.
maintenanceman wrote:...(oh and removed the continental tire rack)...
:tu: :tu: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :not worthy: :tongue: ::-):
I have never seen such an attachment on any Corvair... and on a beautiful Corsa convertible my only comment is GOOD RIDDANCE!

good riddance
phrase of riddance

noun
1. the act or fact of clearing away or out, as anything undesirable.
2. relief or deliverance from something.

Idioms
3. good riddance, a welcome relief or deliverance from something:
He's gone, and good riddance!

:chevy:
Body  & VIN Tags.jpg
Here is a breakdown of the information on the body tag you provided...

BODY TAG INFO:

04C
Body Build Date: 04 = April, C = Third Week
The first two digits are numbers 01 through 12, indicating the month of manufacture. The letter is A-E, indicating the week of the month. If the letter is an "C" it indicates the third week of the month.

Interior Paint Code: "C"
C= Saddle

STyle 65-10767 WRN 5074
65 = 1965
Model 10767: 1 = Chevrolet, 07 = Corsa, 67 = 2-Door Convertible, WRN = Willow Run, Michigan,
Production Sequence No: 5074

1965 Chevrolet Corvair Corsa 2-Door Convertible - 4 Passenger, Total Production: 8,353

Image

TRim 706- = SADDLE
This 3 digit codes represents the interior color and seat type.

RPO: A-2 PAINT = Black "Tuxedo Black"
Lucite No. 88L, Rinshed-Mason No. A 946, Ditzler No. DDL 9300
Top color code: 2 = black

Image

ACC: W2L3C4PUO-
The Letters are listed in groups. Letters following a number are in that group.
1st Group
W = RPO A02 Tinted Windshield only

2nd Group
L = RPO M20 4 Speed Transmission

3rd Group
C = B70 Padded Dash

4th Group
P = RPO Z01 convenience group ( 2 sp wipers, washers, day/night inside mirror)
U = RPO P19 Spare tire lock
O = RPO L87 Turbo engine

5th Group
NONE

107675W242668
VIN - LM Corvair Passenger Car VIN Tag Decoding.jpg
:chevy:

Image
Contacting and possibly joining a local Corvair Society of America (CORSA) Corvair owners club can be very helpful, and can add to your enjoyment of your Corvair. These family-friendly organizations often offer technical training and assistance. and social gatherings such as scenic group drives, picnics, competition events, car shows, etc. There are three clubs in Wisconsin... hopefully one of those listed below will be close to you.

Image
Milwaukee Corvair Club 2016-2017 :link: http://www.milwaukeecorvairclub.org/

CLUB OFFICERS 2016-2017
President: Bill Scherer 847-812-8849
Vice President: Larry Fry 608-751-4473
Treasurer: Patrick Frank 414-916-0271
Secretary: Ron Schlicht 262-442-7934
Librarian: Walt Baranowski 262-547-6420
Board Members:
Larry Merlet 608-290-2433
Chris Hockerman 262-442-5007
John Romppainen 262-786-0447
Immediate Past President: Walt Baranowski 262-547-6420
Do you live in Southeastern Wisconsin or Northern Illinois and own a Corvair or have an interest in these unique rear engine Chevys from the 60's? Maybe you need to get your Corvair repaired but need help from people who know Corvairs and can lend a hand? Looking to buy or sell a Corvair? We can help. Call or drop one of us a line via e-mail. We'll contact you as soon as possible (we all have day jobs, you know...), and try to steer you in the right direction with good advice, parts leads, etc. We may not solve every problem, but we'll give it a try!
SAMPLE NEWSLETTER:
Milwaukee Corvair Club (MCC) February 2017 Pushrod.pdf
Milwaukee Corvair Club (MCC) February 2017 Pushrod
(1.74 MiB) Downloaded 22 times

Image
North East Wisconsin Corvair Club (NEWCC) 2205 Sullivan Ave., Kaukauna, WI :link: http://newcc.weebly.com/

Facebook :link: https://www.facebook.com/NEWisconsinCC/

North East Wisconsin Corvair Club Officers

President: Gary DeNamur (920) 743-4178
Vice President: Mike Lynch (920) 722-1225
Treasurer: Ron Arndt (920) 766-1539
Activities: Levi Roskom (920) 494-3293
Membership: Mary Arndt (920) 766-1539
Publicity: Maria Jaloszynski (920) 733-3434
Director at Large: Don Frank (920) 766-5403

Image
Head of the Lakes Corvair Assn. Duluth, Minnesota & Surrounding Area
704 E 5th St, Superior, WI :link: http://www.edselmotors.com/hlcahome.html

SAMPLE NEWSLETTER:
HLCA Newsletter 0912.pdf
HLCA Newsletter 0912
(5 MiB) Downloaded 11 times
Common and Useful Corvair Websites

:link: viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

:dontknow: I would like to encourage you to expand on your initial post and tell us more about yourself, your Corvair, and your goals for the Corvair. If you can describe your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Knowing your location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities.

:welcome:
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
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thewolfe
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by thewolfe »

Nice looking car but please do us all a favor and take that awful continental kit off the back end. That's not helping anything in the looks or handling department.
Nate Wolfe
65 Corsa 180
61 Lakewood 140
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County98
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by County98 »

I've never seen that on a corvair before. Not my taste, but beautiful car all around.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Corvair Forum mobile app

Cheers!

-Shayne
Lawton, OK

'66 Corsa work in progress
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=8079
66vairguy
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by 66vairguy »

That is a nice looking car, but I agree with Wolfe - the continental kit should go. The last thing you want is extra weight out back.

First I would not drive a nice car like that in the Winter in Wisconsin. I remember the salt on the roads back there. If you want the car to stay nice it should be a summer driving car.

Since the car is a turbo it DOES NOT have a vacuum advance on the ignition distributor. The distributor has a pressure retard on the distributor and it MUST work to avoid detonation (pinging). Use the highest octane rating fuel available - 91-94 in the U.S.A. In spite of the hysteria about modern fuels, up to 10% ethanol blends will not cause an issue if you use modern fuel line hose - like GATES Barricade brand hose.

Chevrolet revised the turbo carburetor almost every year. Clark's Corvair Parts sells Bob Helts YH book and it's on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Identify-Rebuild ... 1426928343
Steve Goodman in Colorado does a lot of Turbo Corvair work and our club rebuilt a 62 Turbo. It ran awful. Finally we sorted out the carburetor per Steve and MOST importantly - we installed a Holley fuel pressure regulator and set it at 2.5PSI per Steve (stock fuel pump is 4-5PSI, but some newer ones are running 8-9PSI) and the car ran great and the fuel mileage improved. The turbo side draft carburetor was first used in the 50's on other cars before being revised for the Corvair. Do read Bob H's book. BTW - the mechanical fuel pumps have had one or the other issue for decades and a lot of use have given up and mounted simple external electric fuel pumps (near the gas tank). The advantage of an electric pump is it overcomes vapor lock issues and after a car sits for some time the electric pump primes the carburetor (modern lead free fuels are more volatile and evaporate easier so "dry carburetor" issues occur, and this was BEFORE ethanol was added).

The first thing to do with a car that sat for a few years is to change the fluids. You've done the gas tank. Replace the brake fluid and use DOT3 that is compatible with any of the seals used over the years. Check the transaxle - if the gear lube is black it will have to be replaced (few seem to change the transaxle lubricant). USE ONLY GL-4, DO NOT USE GL5 OR GL4/5!. GL4 is hard to find now, but you can find Sta Lube GL4 on Amazon. The Sta Lube viscosity is thicker than original so the car will shift hard when cold, but is fine in the summer. If you must drive in cold weather you can use a lower viscosity Ford GL4 and there are some GL4 synthetics, but they are expensive.

When I first got into Corvairs I took my time and found a lot of well meaning folks are mis-informed and give bad advice. So never jump on one suggestion. Read the books and find experienced folks. Find a good club and figure out who really knows their stuff.

About aftermarket wheels - Be aware that the Corvair used a deep backspace rim for the era - so installing aftermarket wheels can lead to issues if you don't get the proper dimensions. I like a 14" tire as the 205/70X14" is the same diameter as the 7:00X13". A 14" rim, 6" wide with a 4.5" backspace is good. Some prefer a lower profile 15" for more choices. Oh - Only Maxxis makes a 13" automotive tire for the Corvair now (185/80X13), but it's a good tire (do not use a trailer tire!!). Supply comes in as batches so availability is hit and miss, but usually a shop can get them in a few weeks.

Here is a list of articles on the "other" forum - http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,268278 that may be helpful.


Good luck and enjoy a nice Corvair.
maintenanceman
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by maintenanceman »

Jerry Whitt, thanks for the advice. The dwell is 24 i didnt have someone to rev the car to 1500rpm but with a little rev from the engine compartment it dropped to 23.4. I couldnt check the choke plate "opening a little" because i had to keep my foot on the pedal to keep it running. The choke plate was closed when I started it but it did not go to 1400 rpm on start up. When I was able to exit the car (car running with out foot on the accelerator) as it warmed up the choke plate did open. I did not check the timing as I dont have a timing light but could probably borrow one. Just a side note when I went to the local auto store and asked for a meter to check the dwell angle the two guys behind the counter had no idea what i was talking about so I had them point me to the multi meters (before this corvair ,at 36 years old, I wouldn't have had any idea either). Anymore suggestions would be appreciated.

bbodie52 thanks for de coding the the body and vin numbers. Does the a2 paint code mean this car is supposed to be tuxedo black? As far as the salt goes I would not drive it in the salt, it did warm up here in Feb and rained so there was no salt on the road, but was cold when I took it around the block. Also I will check out the north east wisconsin corvair club as I live i kaukauna.

66vairguy thanks for the advice on fluid replacement. The gas is new as stated, the brake fluid is mostly fresh as I had to replace a broken line feeding the splitter in the rear so the fluid coming out of both the rear bleeders is clean. I still need to bleed the fronts, I was able to break all 4 bleeders loose so this shouldn't be a problem. I will definetly look into getting that transaxle fluid and the oil change is definetly on the list, which leads to the next question what viscosity oil to run. This seems to be debated. I want to run a synthetic, but not sure what brand or if the zinc additive is needed. The way I see it, is that the additive cant hurt (your thoughts). The shop manual I have recommends 10w-30. As far as the wheels that will be a future endevor with more research needed. For now I want to get it running good and enjoy it this the summer.

to everyone else the continental kit was the first thing to go and thanks for all the advice I have a lot to learn
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bbodie52
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by bbodie52 »

:think: The Carter YH carburetor has a marginal reputation and is somewhat difficult to tune and maintain. It is sensitive to excessive fuel pressure from the fuel pump which should be checked. The use of fuel pressure regulator is often recommended. To supplement the factory shop manual, the following book may be helpful in tuning and adjusting the carburetor...

Image

:link: https://www.amazon.com/Identify-Rebuild ... =carter+yh

How to Identify and Rebuild Carter YH Carburetors Used on Corvair Turbocharged Engines
Paperback – April 26, 2010
by Bob Helt (Author)

===================================================================================================

Actron CP7803 Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Tester Kit
Image
:link: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7803-Vac ... GWSMD1S9SB

Here is a link for ordering the recommended Holley fuel pressure regulator...

:link: http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-804 ... 1797507184

Holley 12-804 - Holley Fuel Pressure Regulators — $29.67
ImageImage

Holley#510-12-804

Standard Pressure Regulator
Chrome Finish
For use with gasoline
Port Size: 3/8'' NPT Inlet/Outlet
1 to 4 PSI
Includes Mounting Bracket

====================================================================================================

Another very useful reference book...

Performance Corvairs: How to Hotrod the Corvair Engine and Chassis Paperback – April 29, 2013
by Seth Emerson (Author), Bill Fisher (Author)

:link: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Corv ... 90HJC0YX54

Image
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
Image 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
maintenanceman
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by maintenanceman »

Jerry Whitt wrote: Tue Mar 14, 2017 10:39 pm Looks like a great car! The temperature you mentioned could be related to the running.
Probably first test would be check dwell (measurement of crankshaft degrees of rotation while points are closed) This is done with a dwell meter, which most most parts stores carry. Reading should be around 31-34 degrees.

Next, check timing. The turbo car calls for initial timing of 24 degrees before top dead center. (set with vac advance hoses disconnected)

The weather temperature could certainly cause some issues, and the first thought is that of the choke. The choke mechanism should close when cold, and then open slowly as the engine warms up. To check, pull the air filter assembly and visually check when cold. When cold with the choke plate closed, and then the engine started, the idle speed should be 1400 or so. The choke plate should open a little when first started, If not, fast idle cam on carburetor may not be working.

Let us know your findings, perhaps we can offer more advice.
im still trying to figure out this forum, not sure if this is the correct way to reply. Correct me if its not. I got the dwell to 30 with a point gap of .016 the timing is at 24 degrees. im not sure if i should tighten the gap to get the dwell above 30 degrees. After doing this, the car ran much better but still missed a bit, I changed the plug wires and now it seems to run really good. My question is when revving the engine should the timing change? It is not changing. I do not see the vacuum retard arm moving when revving the engine. When driving the car the vacuum gauge does go positive (not quite half way) above 3500rpm in 3rd and 4th gear, only makes it to 0 in 1st and 2nd but I have read this is normal. Should the vacuum retard unit move when the engine is revved? Thanks again for any advice.
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Danny Joe
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by Danny Joe »

That is a pressure retard unit, and it won't move until the motor is under load and the turbo builds pressure. In the stock configuration you won't see any noticeable boost in 1st & 2nd as there isn't enough time for the turbo to spool up. Halfway on the pressure side is about 7 lbs of boost, the gauge measures inches of vacuum and pressure. It sounds as if your car is running properly.
'64 Spyder Convertible
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66vairguy
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by 66vairguy »

Maintenanceman - the engine oil thing leads to a lot of speculation and "opinions". I got caught up in the whole ZDDP thing and found the SAE papers. In a summary - the BIG 3 auto companies decided to "extend" oil change intervals to claim "lower maintenance costs" back in the late 50's to early 60's. Suddenly cam shaft failures increased during warranty (it was short then, 6 - 12 months). The oil companies found increasing ZDDP to a specific level fixed the issue by compensating for oil wearing out during extended oil change intervals. Now TOO MUCH ZDDP is a bad as too little so DO NOT USE additives. Also motor oil formulation is better now than in the 50's and 60's. Oil still has ZDDP, but it's reduced and still more than the lousy motor oils of the 40's (and engines had flat tappet camshafts then). Bottom line - use a name brand quality 10W30 motor oil even if it has the lower ZDDP and change it every 2,000 miles (or once a year as some folks don't even put 2,000 on an old car in a year). If the oil turns dark, change it sooner as older engines are often dirty and new oil cleans up the old crap. When the oil is full of contaminants - change it. Oh - sooner or later you'll have to install a new oil pan gasket - when you do it's good to check the oil pan for sludge. On an older engine there may be quite a lot and it needs to be removed as it just contaminates new oil. If the engine was rebuilt recently the pan should be clean.

Finally - Low ZDDP motor oil has been around for many years now. I did a casual inquiry of Corvair owners asking them if they were using the new 10W30 low ZDDP motor oil and if they had a camshaft failure - NONE, NOT ONE had a camshaft problem. Now realize that even back in the good old days flat tappet camshaft failures happened even under the best of conditions - always have, but it's not a common problem, then or now.
66vairguy
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by 66vairguy »

About the turbo carburetor - Steve Goodman in Colorado at Rear Engine Specialists has a lot of experience with Turbo Engines due to their popularity at the higher elevations there (turbo engines perform well at higher altitudes by compensating for lost power due to lower atmospheric pressure at altitudes around Denver). The turbo carburetor saw a LOT of revisions. The 65-66 was probably the best.

Steve recommends a carburetor fuel inlet pressure of about 2.5 PSI at sea level. I helped a buddy with a cranky turbo and we installed the Holley fuel pressure regulator set to 2.5PSI per Steve G. Solved all the problems. DON'T mount the regulator on the engine due to vibration. It should be mounted on the car body with approved braided fuel lines.
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thewolfe
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by thewolfe »

Nothing wrong with mounting a fuel pressure regulator on the engine. I have never heard of vibrations effecting one and I don't see how they would. FPR is nothing more than an adjustable ball valve. I have one mounted to the engine on a non corvair car and never had any issues with it. It is easier to mount one on the firewall though. Just make sure you have a little slack in the fuel lines because the motor moves around when the car is cornering. I found this out when I cracked the body on the fuel filter at the forward fitting and leaked gas into the engine compartment. I had a braided line connecting that directly to a fpr mounted to the firewall above it with no slack between the two.
Nate Wolfe
65 Corsa 180
61 Lakewood 140
PaulR
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Re: First Corvair (Wisconsin)

Post by PaulR »

maintenanceman wrote: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:53 pm First of all thanks for all the info on this forum, its helping me get a Corvair education. this was my grandpa's car, in his passing I purchased it from the family. While I grew up around his (6) Corvairs I do not know much about them (just starting to learn). My plans for the car are getting it running good and after market wheels. I removed the bad gas from the tank and replaced it with 91 octane and sea foam additive to help clean the system. According to the title there has been 10,000 miles put on it since 1986. The car has been in storage for at least the last 5 years. I have taken it around the block a couple of times, it spits and sputters when getting going up to about 2500 rpm then runs pretty smooth to approx. 4000 rpm where it starts to hesitate, could this be because of the cold weather (>30 degrees)? Seems to run great in the heated garage through entire RPM range. So far I replaced a brake line, replaced the air filter and ordered the shop and assembly manuals along with the Clark's catalog (oh and removed the continental tire rack). My next step is fuel filter and possibly carb clean. Also are there more places, other than Clark's, to get parts. Thanks for the great fo
Hello, my name is Paul Rieckmann and I live in Appleton. Welcome to the world of Corvairs and to the Corvair Forum. I knew your late grandfather and had seen him drive this Corvair and his others. If you are interested, our local North East Wisconsin Corvair Club has a great combined wealth of knowledge that really comes in handy sometimes, so you might consider joining. Do not be scared off by the current website page showing the 2012 planned activities though, many of our members do not embrace the latest technologies. Good luck with your Corvair and welcome again.
1964 Monza convertible 110/PG
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