New member in Texas

[aggiebill]

56 years ago I bought a 1960 Corvair which I thoroughly enjoyed. A few months later my job with the Sheriffs office went away as he didn't get re-elected ( I was dating his daughter). I joined the Air Force and turned it over to my parents (they had co-signed) and retired 27 years later. Now many years later I bought a 1962 Corvair Monza 900 which is not bad, but will require some work and therefore I'll be looking for a lot of advice. This feels like a great forum and look forward to participating in it.
Glad to be a member,
aggiebill

[cad-kid]

Welcome! Post a pic of your ride and what your plans for it are (we like specifics! and photos!)

[Jerry Whitt]

Welcome. Hope to see some pictures. We all will be happy to share ideas to help with your project.

[aggiebill]

I took some photos I would like to share.

[joemonza]

Nice looking EM

[cad-kid]

I like the stripes! Good looking project.

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

I am also retired from Air Force active-duty, after serving from November 1972 until I retired in 1996. I worked in communications-electronics as a technical controller (AFSC 30770 / 49370) and retired as a Master Sergeant. Except for two separate tours of duty in South Korea I always had at least one Corvair with me throughout my Air Force career. My parents bought their first Corvair in 1961 when I was eight years old (a 1961 Monza Coupe) and replaced it in 1965 with a new 1965 Corsa convertible. Over the years there have been 10 Corvairs in my family. Half of them were early model (1961-1963) and the remainder were late-model (1965-1966). At age 63 my current Corvair is a 1966 Corsa convertible.

I enjoyed the pictures you posted of your 1962 Monza. My wife and I owned a 1962 Monza coupe, which we drove at our wedding and honeymoon in 1972.



What part of Texas do you live in? I was stationed at Bergstrom Air Force Base in Austin Texas from 1988 through 1992. There are several CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapters throughout Texas. If we knew the location we can provide you with some contact information for the nearest CORSA club chapter. These clubs are usually family-friendly and offer technical support and social gatherings including competition events, car shows, scenic drives, etc. You might find that joining one of these CORSA chapters would increase the enjoyment you get from your Corvair.

This may give you an idea of the missing trim on your rear deck lid...




http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=296

Part number C8137: "CORVAIR" DECK EMBLEM* TAKES (3) C570 62-63 CARS & WAGONS*!* ALSO FITS 60 FT FENDER

Weight: 0 lbs 8 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 296,SUP,40
Price: $81.80

The missing oil dipstick boot should be replaced, so that engine cooling air does not escape back into the engine compartment...

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=7A

Part number C95: 60-64 OIL DIPSTICK BOOT (1965-69 GROMMET STYLE= C96R)

Weight: 0 lbs 2 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 7A,9,15,106(12),232
Price:
1 - 2 $ 6.30

I decoded the body tag as much as possible...

Here is a breakdown of the information on the body tag you provided...
BODY TAG INFO:

01C
Body Build Date: 01C = JAN (01) Third Week (C)

STYLE 62-0927 BODY OA 19734
STYLE 62-0927 = 1962 (62) 900 Series Monza (09) Coupe (27) OA = Oakland, California Production Sequence No: 19734
1962 Monza Coupe (0927), Total Production: 144,844.



TRIM 755 17 PAINT 936
MONZA - MONZA SERIES
TRIM: This 3 digit codes represents the interior color and seat type.
Trim 755 = AQUA (Interior Color) 17=???

PAINT 936 = Ermine White
936 - Ermine White
Lucite® No. - 4024L
Rinshed-Mason No. - A1199
Ditzler No. - DDL 8259

ACC H P E L

H = Direct air Heater (Always listed 1st and listed on every OA car in survey)

P = Padded Dash

E = Tint Glass ( all windows)

L = ???

9772 = ???

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

I would like to encourage you to expand on your initial post and tell us more about yourself, your Corvair, and your goals for the Corvair. If you can describe your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Knowing your location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities.

[aggiebill]

Brad,
Thanks for all the info. My hope is to bring it back to what it was when new. Color, equipment etc. My first project will be the brakes and the power glide linkage. Then I will run some checks on the engine, I want it drivable. It has a 4 carburetor manifold with 2 ports blocked off. Can I find out if this manifold was original to the car? Eventually I will have it repainted to its original color.
The AF. Enlisted in 1960 retired 1987. Had a few AFSC's,32271F Airborne weapons systems, AFOSI Special Agent, Security Police Manager, short stint as a club manager and finally Chief of Military Tng for a student group at Goodfellow AFB in San Angelo, TX where we still live. I retired as a CMS.
Thanks again for all the info
Bill Brown

[bbodie52]

I guess I don't have to tell you that you live in the middle of nowhere! There are five CORSA chapters in Texas, and all of them are 250+ miles from San Angelo!

The only factory four-carburetor setup was the 140 hp 164 CI engine originally found on 1965-1969 Corvairs. These engines included dual exhaust and large valves in the cylinder heads. The engine serial number can be found to the right of the generator, between the top shroud and the oil filter adapter. The number begins with the letter "T", followed by four numbers (month and date of engine manufacture), and a one or two-letter suffix code. The two-letter code will help to identify the engine.

There is also a cylinder head casting number at the end of the head, next to the valve cover. This casting number will provide specific identification of the head. (You may have to remove some of the end sheet metal to see it).

There were also some aftermarket manifold kits that were sold to permit the addition of two more carburetors. If you don't have the big valve 140 hp heads, you may have some small valve heads that were modified.

Here are some pictures of 140 hp heads...

Sample small valve heads...



The attached guide will help you with decoding some Corvair numbers...

[66vairguy]

There are two different 140 heads. Interchangeable, same valves, exhaust tubes, but they have different casting numbers (four casting numbers are listed, but I've only seen two - one for the 65 head, and one for 66 and later).

In 1966 the bolt holes for the top shroud were made larger and more material was added to the end of the head. This was done to allow the larger A/C bracket to be bolted to the 140HP engines in 1966. No A/C was available on 140HP engines in 1965. The 65 heads work great for a car without A/C.

Installing the four carburetor 140HP engine in an EM car is very popular. Not original, but won't hurt the value.

About the blocked off secondary ports - that was done by folks who could not get the secondaries to work or to allow the use of two carburetor air cleaner and linkage. The secondaries work fine if you know how to set them up, but expect it to cost. That said I find the 110HP heads to be fine for most folks and is simpler to maintain. Also there is little advantage to using the 140HP engine with a PG - IMHO.

If you decide to get the engine back to original and the heads are indeed factory 140HP heads (not modified two carburetor heads) they are worth some money if in good shape.

[aggiebill]

The only number found where suggested is attached. I am waiting on manuals and catalog from Clarks and then I will dig in. I am 73 years old and I have a hard time working under the car, but it can and will be done. I am capable of working on older cars (pre Computer) and have all the tools I should need. I don't do body nor engine rebuild work, but I can handle things on the outside of the engine and major tune up stuff.
My major interest up till now has been collecting old guns and repair and restoration of them, but I was due for a change. Thanks again for your help.
Bill

[bbodie52]

You looked in the correct location, but the numbers seen there reflect a replacement set of engine cases. After more than 50 years there have been apparently some significant modifications to the engine compartment. Some detective work will have to be done on your part to discover just what configuration is running in the rear of your Corvair. For example, if your crankshaft pulley is a harmonic balancer and not a standard pulley, you have a clue that might indicate that you are running a 164 cubic inch engine. A long stroke crankshaft was introduced in 1964, and all high-performance engines, including the 110, 140, and 150/180 hp turbocharged engines were fitted with a harmonic balancer. Only the 95 hp 164 cubic inch engine received a solid cast pulley (likely an economic compromise between the engineering department and the bean counters).



However the presence or absence of a harmonic balancer is not necessarily conclusive, since a previous owner could have replaced or substituted a solid pulley to save money. There are other internal clues inside the crankcase that can help you to determine the engine displacement. The casting number on the cylinder heads is a critical element in determining your engine configuration.

Since you indicated that your Corvair is fitted with a Powerglide automatic transmission the performance specifications contained within your engine are not critically important. As previously written, the Powerglide transmission is at its best when attached to a mildly tuned engine. Basic tuning and compression tests to ensure the operating condition of your engine would be your primary concern. The Powerglide transmission has a good reputation for reliability, as long as the transmission fluid levels are properly maintained. The transmission fluid should be red in color and not have a burning smell or odor that might indicate internal wear, slipping clutches and bands, bad seals or oil pump problems. As long as you're transmission is operating properly and the transmission fluid looks normal the transmission would not normally be a concern. You should also check the vacuum modulator on the right side of the transmission for internal leaks. This can normally be done by disconnecting the vacuum hose at the vacuum modulator and checking the inside of the hose for signs of oil. If the thin internal diaphragm has ruptured, transmission fluid can be drawn into the vacuum hose. As shown below, Clark's indicates that the average lifespan of a vacuum modulator is approximately 10 years.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=135


As you probably suspect, learning to work on a Corvair is not all that difficult. There are a few rules that you should follow when dealing with an aluminum engine, such as hand-threading the fittings to prevent cross-threading, using a torque wrench to avoid stripping threads, and applying anti-seize compound to the bolt threads to help protect the threads from damage.

In 1969 I taught myself to overhaul the Corvair engine and the Powerglide transmission while I was only 16 years old and working by myself. My father provided a garage to work in, Corvair shop manuals, necessary hand tools, a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands, and funding support. I learned a lot that summer and have owned and maintained Corvairs ever since.

It would be great if there was a CORSA club chapter in your area with members who can assist you as you learn to work on your Corvair, but unfortunately your location will not permit that. I think you'll find that the Corvair Forum will be a big help to you. Just post your questions here and I believe you will find numerous "Corvair people" who will step up to assist wherever they can.

[aggiebill]

Here is the correct engine serial number which I found after removing the top engine shroud and many other parts and lines from the engine. It is going to be a fun project which I will continue after I get 2 more jack stands, the manuals and catalog. For now its break time.

[bbodie52]

T0116RU

T = Tonawanda, New York (GM Tonawanda Engine Plant)
http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/comp ... wanda.html
0116 = Engine manufacturing date (month and date). January 16th.
RU

• 1966 110 hp, 164 CI, Manual Transmission, AIR (Air Injection Reactor — SMOG Pump) Corvair 500 and Monza
• 1967 110 hp, 164 CI, Manual Transmission, AIR (Air Injection Reactor — SMOG Pump) Corvair 500 and Monza
• 1968 110 hp, 164 CI, Manual Transmission, AIR (Air Injection Reactor — SMOG Pump) Corvair 500 and Monza

NOTE: You will still need the cylinder head casting number to determine the exact nature of the heads, combustion chamber layout, etc.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... age=TECH-3

[aggiebill]

Thanks again.

[aggiebill]

Well it's 3 years later and my 62 Monza 900 is fully registered and inspected and I have decided to go on with a restoration. Not to it's original style but to make it a very nice looking driver. It needs paint, $4000 to $5000, seats springs repaired and seats repaded, Badges replaced and other minor improvements. Probably to the tune of about $6000. That will put into a total of $10000 invested. The upholstery and carpeting are good and the body is solid. I guess I want opinion's, and saying I'm crazy won't offend me.

Let me hear from you'all.

Thanks, Aggiebill