Corvair Forum

The part I keep finding different answers on is whether or not S&P disconnect when oil pressure is up. If they don't disconnect, then there would have to be a diode inside so that power cannot flow from P to S when P is receiving power from I, otherwise the power that is supposed to be powering ...

Since it doesn't seem there's a solid answer, I went ahead and ordered the Vega switch. I figure it's worth $20 to find out for sure. Here's the circuit I'm going to test once I get the Vega switch: Oil-Pressure-Switch-Circuit-Vega.png Here's what my pressure switched circuit looks like right now: O...

Thanks Brad -- Can you confirm that S&P on the Vega switch disconnect once oil pressure comes up? Googling around, I'm finding folks saying that to use the Vega switch, you run S to the solenoid (powered when cranking), I to the Ignition (powered when key is on), and P to (+) on the fuel pump. B...

For folks getting here from google years later, the Facet pump above with the dead followup link is a 40105. It's self-priming, self regulating, and pushes 4.5 PSI. You can see the numbers etched in the flange in the first picture -- 40 on the left of the bolt hole and 105 on the right. Related, doe...

Hey Nick -- I don't think it's quite that simple. I'm definitely benchtop testing the pump part of the accelerator pumps. You can depress the accelerator pump manually, mimicking the action that the engine vacuum would normally have on the diaphragm and filling the upper chamber with fuel. The part ...

Does anyone know what the accelerator pump "shot" on a 0-1580 (late '63-'64) YH carb is supposed to look like? I have a 0-1507 (early '63) and its accelerator pump makes a nice healthy stream of fuel shoot in from the side of the barrel when manually actuated. I know the 0-1580 dumps the a...

What are you trying to accomplish? The turbo intake is purposely restricted by the small venturi in the YH carb. The most common way of opening up the intake path is to get rid of the YH and replace it with a more free-breathing carb. Webers converted to multi-stage are popular. If you do this, you'...

Thanks guys -- that makes much more sense. I didn't realize the I.D. of the outlet was flared. Measuring down by the turbine, I see 2.13" and since it came off of a '63 it all lines up.

While Grant Young is building me a new carb, I figured I'd pull off the turbo and give it a once-over -- make sure it's the right one and all that. I'm a bit confused by what I found, so I figured I'd check with all you folks who know more about this than I do. Since I'll be referencing Nick's work,...

Sounds like you have a solid plan. Let us know how it goes!

Not a video, but hopefully this helps with the adiabatic process -- You can check my logic here Apologies in advance for any math errors -- it's almost 2am and I'm jetlagged. Assumptions: Displacement is the volume swept by all pistons inside of a reciprocating engine. 1965 Corsa 140HP has 164 ci of...

Some details and pics of the Greenbriar restoration:

http://www.corvairkid.com/R1265S100360.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I don't know about your main question, but I do have a suggested path for your chirp-squeak as I just retorqued the heads to take care of a leaking head gasket making a squeaky chirp noise on my '63. All credit to miniman82 as I had no idea what I was hearing until he called it. Here's the thread fo...

Yes indeed. I remember that from high school when I rebuilt the 110. Thanks for the sanity check though -- that one would have been pretty awful to discover several miles and many ruined valvetrain components from now.

Just finished taking her for a spin and no more chirping. Thank you gentlemen.

Sounds like it's time to spend an afternoon with a multimeter / test light. IMO, absolutely nothing is better than something intermittant. In your position, I'd just start at the positive terminal with a well grounded test light and start working your way from there. Once you find the first location...